Anyone running solar systems?

I Have a 12V solar system on my truck running phone chargers, a fridge and lights at nights anyone else have something similar?

 

Couple more because I'm a noob who doesnt know how to post.

 

With all this free time lately, im thinking of building something similar. Cool project!

 

I've got a Renogy 200watt suitcase w/a 20Amp Voyager controller that I bought for the 1969 Rolite camper I'm restoring … And of course a deal landed in my lap for a couple 100ah agm batteries ! I already had a 2000watt continuous 4000peak pure sine wave inverter , So I just had to set it up and tinker with the system and found out I don't need a gas powered generator for my little house any more ! The unit will power my fridge/freezer , Big screen tv and my thermostat/boiler and the renei water heater along with the pump for my well … all used in moderation of course ! So I'm pretty confident it'll power my camping adventures for as long as I want to be off the grid

 

This thread is great with photos but why don't you describe your set up to us. What batteries, is the system divorced from the truck, how many watts from your solar.

Your wiring looks great. I want to put in another battery in my truck and eventually a solar panel on the roof to keep it topped off. My goal is to ALWAYS have cold beer in the fridge.

-M

 

I'll try to accommodate, but it'll be lengthy! First, I mounted a 100w mono Rich Solar panel on my Frontrunner rack to charge my X2 24F replacement starter battery. This deep cycle battery is rated at 76AH, but like all AGM batteries, only 50%, or 38AH, is usable. Even with a mono panel, the most watts I have ever been able to produce has been around 75w. Normally, I get between 40 - 60w, depending upon the time of day and the amount of clouds.

Rubber feet are used as shock absorbers between the rack and panel. They also provides tension on the panel clamps.

Under the driver side seat, I have a Tracer 20w MPPT solar charger. The case is metal and has heat sink fins to efficiently dissipate any heat. Another nice feature is the overcharge protection. This enables me to add more panels without worrying about damage to the controller from overcharging.

For now, I am running the wires through the rear window, behind the seats, and under the floor mat. Eventually, I may have a separate LiFePO4 battery in the truck bed to run accessories, so I don't want to make it permanent (i.e., drilling holes in the cab).

The panel is held to the rack by 2 SS 5/16" hex bolts. Originally, I had flange nuts (top photo) holding the panel clamps. However, it was awkward to loosen the nuts with a wrench due to their location. The solution was to use longer bolts and make 2 spacers out of aluminum bar stock. By bringing the nuts up to the top of the panel, I was able to use the wing nuts from a set of Yakima Mighty Mounts. The front clamp is on the left and the rear clamp is on the right.

If I need to maximize the output of the panel, I can now easily loosen and slide the clamps away from the panel. This allows me to raise and rotate the panel 360 degrees. I can also set the angle so it faces the sun.