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For a Daily!! 3 link or Spring under

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by PerRunner_Taco2wd, Mar 18, 2020.

  1. Mar 18, 2020 at 4:43 PM
    #1
    PerRunner_Taco2wd

    PerRunner_Taco2wd [OP] Member

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    Which one would you choose and why? Money isn't the problem. Just want to get some feed back on people experience.
     
  2. Mar 18, 2020 at 5:37 PM
    #2
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 Go do something real instead.

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    I see plenty of people daily driving spring under trucks, but not so may linked trucks. That said, I believe @sytfu510 and @taco_sos ? drive thier trucks on road a good amount of the time.

    Adding an anti-rock sway bar to a custom or pre-set up 3 link kit would greatly improve its daily driveability. Thats what I plan to do when I eventually go for @dirt designs or a Ruff Stuff specialties trailing arm kit 3link, and would probably still daily my truck for a couple years.

    Dont know of anyone daily-ing a standard 4link though.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2020 at 7:05 PM
    #3
    manesfesto

    manesfesto Well-Known Member

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    I daily a spring under and can’t tell any difference from previous toyotas. Feels fine. I’ve linked jeeps but love the simplicity of the Deavers and bypasses. Get all the droop I need with the set up too. Cheap and easy.
     
  4. Mar 22, 2020 at 7:43 PM
    #4
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    4 link.

    Not on the truck, but on the truck or UTV you tow behind it. Mid-travel is where it is at for a DD. You can put all the suspension in the world under a truck - but it's still a truck until you gut it, gusset it, and trim it away until it's not a truck.

    I know I beat that unpopular drum a lot here, especially for a guy with an LT truck - but daily driving an LT truck for the last 150k miles has just made me jaded on recommending anyone else to do it. You're either going to drop $10-20k building a nice looking street queen or you're going to drop $10-20k as a down payment on a never ending series of "what's that noise" or "got a little carried away there...think AAA will cover a tow from here?".

    The UTV's just take the abuse so much better; or if full size is your thing, a gutted compact truck with an LS motor slammed in it, a cage, and no fucks given if it can get to you work on Monday.
     
  5. Mar 22, 2020 at 7:51 PM
    #5
    socalexpeditions

    socalexpeditions IG: @socalexpeditions

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    This.
     
    ToyotaDriver likes this.
  6. Mar 22, 2020 at 7:54 PM
    #6
    whatstcp

    whatstcp currently drunk so don't listen to me

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    Makes sense to me

    Once you do the math for a complete setup you are better off just buying a turnkey utv that will perform better and no worries about flipping it
     
    Rock Lobster likes this.
  7. Mar 23, 2020 at 8:21 AM
    #7
    Canks

    Canks Well-Known Member

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    I hate that I agree with this... ive had both and have DD'd a couple different LT 1st Gen tundras. Currently have a street queen DD 1st gen LT Tundra and a canam x3 xrs in the garage. Its nice not worrying about the canam, mines actually been broke for a about a month and no worries.

    .... Having had both I strongly recommend you sit down and think about what you want. I am working towards going back to a play truck as the UTV is amazing, but I just prefer a truck. Even though its 10x the labor. maintenance and work (not exaggerating). There is just something wrong with me :duh:
     
  8. Mar 24, 2020 at 9:27 AM
    #8
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I don't know about wanting a lt truck to daily drive. Gas mileage won't nearly be as good as a nice little commuter car. I don't want to tow a vehicle since it will limit loop trail / loop route drives from home to multiple locations. Adventure vehicle spring under or linked. If you want a prerunner go linked.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2020 at 10:28 AM
    #9
    Canks

    Canks Well-Known Member

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    This is where I wish/am hoping the American car market would/will sustain a 25+mpg diesel 1/2 ton truck. Decent mpg's and you could still tow your play vehicle for long weekend trips. I know they have similar now (i think they are more like 20-22mpg), but they are all brand new and I do not want a truck payment. We'll see if they continue to produce them, as Nissan has already discontinued the 1/2 ton Cummins which I'm disappointed they didn't continue.
     
    Dalandser[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Mar 24, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #10
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Yeah that would really be ideal with a single utv. I'd like a long range diesel in my adventure truck but I won't probably be able to hook that up with smog laws and seeing how it's taken 3 years to build even with just replacing the motor for another stock one, adding a diesel would take another year or so at my pace even if I dirty smogged it.

    I was getting at trips that go A-B-C-A where A is home, B is a camping point and C might be another camping point after a bumpy off-road route that wouldn't allow a trailer due to tough terrain and the trailer would require an extra leg back to B after C. I'm sure lots of dirt miles guys are considering these kinds of trucks, but again dailying such a truck isn't good on gas.
     
    Sterling_vH111 likes this.
  11. Mar 24, 2020 at 12:03 PM
    #11
    Armament

    Armament Well-Known Member

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    Full Camburg LT front suspension, King coil overs, Rough Country spindles, King 2.5 reservoir rear shocks, OME Dakar spring packs, T100 E-locked rear axle, 35x12.5x17 tires, Fiberworx fenders and bedsides.
    If money’s no problem, there’s several VERY nicely set up trophy trucks on race-dezert right now ready to go.
     
  12. Mar 24, 2020 at 12:14 PM
    #12
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    My LT truck is pretty much an "adventure vehicle". +2" kit, lockers front and rear, hybrid bumper with winch, RTT, etc. I still wish I was mid-travel instead for that use.

    Gas mileage really has nothing to do with it for me.

    - The swooped fiberglass fenders required to clear all that up-travel are loud on the highway, and you still throw mud all over the side of the truck on wet dirt roads with the wider front track width.

    - Lack of a sway bar and a wider stance make stability on highways, especially those with deep ruts/grooves in the pavement, a lot less than with a normal vehicle.

    - If you actually use the thing as the suspension is intended for, you end up causing a whole lot of issues on systems/components not even associated with suspension, just from the jarring and abrupt things that occur when you blitz whoops, jump the truck, etc.

    - You lose bedspace to the rear suspension set up. This can be minimized, but you still have shocks going through the bed which allows more dirt and mud to get in the bed than normal - which can be a pain in the ass when you're trying to get camping gear down a wet dirt road without getting it all muddy. I now use tough boxes for everything in the bed.

    - You lose towing and bed capacity.

    - You lose clearance with SUA vs SOA.

    - Uniballs wear out faster than balljoints. They squeak like hell when they get dirty.

    - You really need to carry a spare CV axle, as no one is ever going to stock an extended CV axle at a regular autoparts store.
     
    sytfu510 likes this.
  13. Mar 24, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #13
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I've followed your truck build - this is basically the style truck I'm building but my terrain is almost desert exclusively and my setup weighs way less than any vehicle I've seen built for camping adventure.

    Gas mileage really has nothing to do with it for me.

    For a daily like the OP was mentioning most people would have considerations. My truck won't be a sipper. Working from home / 5 miles from home doesn't make a difference of course, but the pain would be felt on a weekly basis if someone with a 40 mile daily commute put on 35's glass, bumpers, etc. and made their mileage drop 5 +/- mpgs.

    - The swooped fiberglass fenders required to clear all that up-travel are loud on the highway, and you still throw mud all over the side of the truck on wet dirt roads with the wider front track width.

    Another reason I wouldn't daily an LT truck, but I'll be interested to see what the wind noise is like now that I've RAAM matted floor and doors compared to my 2nd gen daily with factory sound deadening (a plastic sheet :rolleyes:).

    - Lack of a sway bar and a wider stance make stability on highways, especially those with deep ruts/grooves in the pavement, a lot less than with a normal vehicle.

    Feeling fortunate my total track width will be the same with my kit as a 2nd gen with a +2 kit / wheel spacers. Good info.

    - If you actually use the thing as the suspension is intended for, you end up causing a whole lot of issues on systems/components not even associated with suspension, just from the jarring and abrupt things that occur when you blitz whoops, jump the truck, etc.

    Yeah I guess this depends case by case. I don't see me beating on it too much. More concerned with moving a little faster than mid travel would allow on long desert runs. Linking your truck seems like it would be way more tempting to do that.

    - You lose bedspace to the rear suspension set up. This can be minimized, but you still have shocks going through the bed which allows more dirt and mud to get in the bed than normal - which can be a pain in the ass when you're trying to get camping gear down a wet dirt road without getting it all muddy. I now use tough boxes for everything in the bed.

    Cantilever is the solution to this for me. Never wanted to contend with the dirt and water coming through the bed either since I have a tendency to truck camp with my sleeping bag laid out so it's ready to jump into.

    - You lose towing and bed capacity.

    Big consideration if someone has toys or a RTT. For the trips I take I'm only taking tools, food, water, clothes, and camera stuff.


    - You lose clearance with SUA vs SOA.

    Similar to the vehicle type concerns. If a daily, I wouldn't rock crawl it, and deserts typically will give you more opportunities to enjoy more uptravel than more clearance. If clearance was one of my biggest considerations a Jeep / full size solid axle truck is probably likely a better platform imo.

    - Uniballs wear out faster than balljoints. They squeak like hell when they get dirty.

    Gonna have to go with the flow - curious to find out how long they can hang in there with the mild climate in my area. First gens don't use balljoints the same way on the lca and having a beefy spindle plus uniball rules out almost any chance of breaking there, but if I was building a 2nd gen it would have possibly been better with balljoints.

    - You really need to carry a spare CV axle, as no one is ever going to stock an extended CV axle at a regular autoparts store.

    I went with dana 44 front hubs to freewheel when (if hopefully) something breaks up front. Dual lockers and Dana 60's in the rear for the same reason.
     
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  14. Mar 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM
    #14
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    Dalandser,

    That sounds good man. Looks like you've done your homework and are incorporating lessons learned into your build.

    I'm a hard way kind of guy, so despite reading it here I was just young and dumb, with "TROPHY TRUCK!!11!!!" on the mind lol.
     
    Sterling_vH111 likes this.
  15. Mar 29, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #15
    sytfu510

    sytfu510 Instagram: tacoma510

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    I agree with what MXpatriot said, once you take it out and beat on it, all kinds of other issues arise. But it's still fun.

    For drivability daily, I have no issues other than the turn radius. My truck drives like stock. No shake, no drift/pull W(unless I broke something). With the antirock sway in the rear I still can take turns at speed and not worry. But u-turns I either have to jump the curb or stop and back up. So that sucks. Truck is loud from wind noise on the freeway but at this point it's a large combination of everything not being stock. (Bumpers, fenders, suspension, roof rack, etc)

    But expect a lot more maintenance. Especially if you don't want the squeaking lol. When I'm lazy to clean the suspension, the truck sounds like a broke POS.
     
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  16. Apr 20, 2020 at 6:32 PM
    #16
    BrownMike

    BrownMike Well-Known Member

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    These are about 95% of the reasons Im going back to MT currently.. I DD the truck and have other desert toys now so back to normal it is
     
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  17. Apr 20, 2020 at 8:35 PM
    #17
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    SOA MT? What about E30's and staying SUA?
     
  18. Apr 20, 2020 at 9:10 PM
    #18
    BrownMike

    BrownMike Well-Known Member

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    staying SUA is possible
     
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  19. Apr 20, 2020 at 9:23 PM
    #19
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Deaver makes E30 and E30 HD which gives a ton of lift. I'm running the E30's and made me sit a little stink bug but I haven't run them (or even have my truck with a rear at all lately). It sat almost even with like a 2" lift with 2 35's in the bed if I remember correctly. Definitely a more load bearing spring than the F67's. @Anthony250 runs the E30 HD pack but he's on lift spindles with two spares.
     
  20. Apr 20, 2020 at 10:16 PM
    #20
    BrownMike

    BrownMike Well-Known Member

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    yeah the truck sits perfectly level but any weight and it sags. so E30s might be the way to go.
    IMG_5424.jpg
     

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