TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I’ve been running 170 degree for about 10 years. No problems in the cold months

 

I have the 170 as well (URD unit). Livin in the Chicago area it gets crazy cold.....like Canada cold and my truck runs just fine. Also, @White lightning boosted ....happy birthday bro!! Enjoy your day. ​

 

Kind of got lost amongst other things but intended on switching back off boost reference FPR to air intake. Is it still necessary or apt to boost reference given HPTuner now? I still need to submit my trouble ticket for injector inverse constant value to our CAL. However, looking for feedback on this trying to trigger why I should keep it boost referenced or not.

 

I cant speak for HP specifically, but from what i've read in here, the FPR mod is beneficial because it allows the fuel to get into the cylinder more easily under high boost. As you know it bumps the pressure up with boost so if you are running it on the intake(No fpr mod), and you're making 10lbs of boost, the fuel system is fighting that extra 10lbs of pressure to get the fuel in the cylinder. Without the FPR, you're at the 43.5psi standard, and its gonna have to spray longer to reach target AFR, so you've then got higher injector duty cycle % too. Ive also read that it atomizes better with higher fuel pressures, so there's that benefit as well with the FPR mod. Hope this helps some

 

He hit the nail right on the head for you Zipp.. despite HP Tuners being in the game now I still run the FPR mod as it helps on various fronts, if you switch back and forth between the two it would probably be best to run two different versions of your tune as injector duty cycle will be much different under boost at WOT with the FPR mod hooked up versus it being hooked up to the intake.

 

Regarding the FPR boost/vac referencing... Just do it. Then make the necessary adjustments via HPtuners.

I had problems at the other end. In high vacuum idling situations it was pulling enough pressure that the truck was too lean. Threw an MIL.

 

Well everyone should be running FPR mod with 455s and smaller pulley. That’s a given. And I thought the same thing taking out the fpr mod after installing my fic 650s. But I think @JustDSM likes boost referencing regardless of injector size for his hptunes. Not to say it’s impossible to dial in 650s without.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. I am going to leave it. Just couldn’t remember all those important points and wasn’t sure.

 

Im curious if anyone is not boost referenced on the 650s right now. Cause it would probably take a major tuning upgrade to make the AFRs good at all stages.

 

Finally got some time to work on the truck.

I replaced the pump mounts with these

$17 HOUSE TUNING Tube Clamps 2.375" -Pack 22 3/8" Roll Bar Clamp Bracket,Led Light Mount Clamp,Roll Bar Mounting Brackets,Tube Light Mount for Light Bar (2.375" Clamp - Pack 2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DJS74M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

They are much more stout. You could get away with just one and one is threaded in to an existing hole.

 

Thank you-

If you remember, I was asking for the tolerances a couple weeks ago. Appreciative to all that contributed to that. It is simple once you have the tools you need to do it correctly.

1. Feeler Gauges - Offsets are nice -

$11 ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal-Standard-Measuring-Thickness/dp/B01IPWOAOQ/ -- But these

Acarte 32 Set Blades Steel Feeler Gauge Dual Marked Metric and Imperial Gap Measuring Tool Teaching Feeler

https://www.amazon.com/Acarte-Blades-Imperial-Measuring-Teaching/dp/B07C9YCZ17/ --- or the stainless versions are perfect as well

$15 Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Thickness Gauge 32-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Universal-Standard-Thickness-Measuring/dp/B07XPD9L1C/

2. Micrometer - Something like this.

$44 REXBETI Digital Micrometer, Professional Inch/Metric Measuring Tools 0.00005"/0.001 mm Resolution Thickness Gauge, Protective Case with Extra Battery

https://www.amazon.com/Micrometer-Professional-Thickness-Resolution-Protective/dp/B07DNNX9Y3/ - Personally I use the Mitutoyo normally -

$250 Mitutoyo 293-180-30 Quantumike, Micrometer, DIGIMATIC, 0-1", IP65, 00005", W/SPC

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-293-180-30-Micrometer-Digimatic-IP65-00005/dp/B01M3SLYFZ/ Any will work. The cheapie is a one handed click version, this Mitutoyo is also. One handed is best for this

$179 Mitutoyo 293-348-30 Digimatic Micrometer, IP65, 0-1"

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-293-348-30-Digimatic-Micrometer-IP65/dp/B00N4MCLA8/ Just needs to be the 0"-1" measurement version. -- Useful tip, don't need to open the micrometer all the way to put cups in and out to measure. Open it up to ~10mm and tilt them in and out.

3. 24mm Wrench to move the cams. https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Polish-Metric-Pattern-Combination/dp/B07CXPPWVK

4. The chart that has all the numbers on it. Including the cup measurements. Attached to this post at the bottom is the .pdf


5. paper, markers, pencil - I put my Hard Measured numbers in Black ink/ marker. Then used the pencil to move new numbers around and do the addition, subtraction and crossing out of numbers.


You can do without the Micrometer if you aren't worried about possibility of wear on the shim putting it a couple thou out of spec. Just use the numbers on the cups and reference the chart.

Process is simple enough. Pull the valve cover. Start using the feeler gauges and shove them under the round part of the Cam bottom. (Bottom of PEAR) until they cant fit anymore. the last one that fit is your tolerance/ measurement.
on the intake and the exhaust that is in the same position. Move the cams again to get the next set, and one more time for the last set. (You are measuring 2 valves on intake and 2 exhaust on another cylinder at a time.


Make the 3 boxed for the intake and the same 3 boxes underneath for the exhaust. Put the numbers in the box as you measure.

I measured each cup/ shim. as you could see, only a couple were out of spec by .01 or so. Ultimately that slight variance got me in spec.

If you are starting with all new components. Including cups. Put all your new springs, cams, valves, etc. in first. Use the old cups in random order and you should be able to measure them all in the manner I mentioned above. Then start switching all the cups around on paper. Adding and subtracting the differences in cups to get you in spec or close to it. Then order whatever additional cups you need.

Each CUP is 5.XX mm

Different components or all stock and new?

Congrats on another year above ground!

What issues are people having with the thermostats? Any that aren't opening or malfunctioning? I'm burping my system right now. What a pain!

 

I actually had this issue when I switched from the URD ram intake to the OE airbox and running a non boost referenced FPR. Vacuum was too high for it and the AFR was all wonky for a little bit until it finally coded for a system too lean P0171 and P0174, of course this was before HP Tuners existed.

I actually stuck with the FPR mod after talking to Justin about it anyways, not to mention the smaller pulley deal on my blower, so yeah it all just sort of works out like a self fulfilling prophecy.

 

Mine is boost referenced on 1300cc injectors.

 

I’m going to throw this up here first. Give one of you guys a great deal before I put it out there for the general public.

UCON, 7th injector, and clean (never flashed) 2013 Tacoma 4.0 ECU.

UCON will come with new exhaust cam gears, T-stat housing and water neck, and 7th inj. Harness

Everything in perfect working order. I’m parting out my entire truck, thus the reason it’s for sale.

$1,000 shipped anywhere in the US

 

thanks brother.

i see a similarity here.

 

isn't ONE of your injectors bigger than an entire n/a set?

 

Pretty close. Zoom zoom!

 

Nothing important to add here with this post I'm just thinking out loud that it's funny how this thread has almost like operational hours and stops being active after 12am usually.

Also I'm really annoyed that I have to replace both of my garbage OE accessory parts because they are both defective. My AC compressor and my alternator.

I guess the silver lining to that is that I can replace the alternator pulley much easier now since the new one will be off the vehicle.

 

frustrating paying 100$ an hour to watch a tech lean how to adjust shocks. dammit.

 

That hurts.