Rear driveshaft U-Joints

I'm sure this has been asked and answered before, but I couldn't find it...

I'm looking at ordering

$32 Spicer 5-1330-1x U-Joint Kit

Spicer 5-1330-1x for the rear driveshaft. I'm assuming both ends and center are the same part number...right? So I'd need 3 plus a carrier bearing to completely gut the thing, yes?

I know it's kind of a silly question, but....ya don't know what ya don't know....and I don't know. At least not 100%...I think I'm sitting at about 99% sure right now

 

Yep exactly right.

 

Thank you sir. Follow up...I don't suppose you have a part number, preferably spicer, for the carrier bearing?

Thanks again

 

This is what I used.

$61 Spicer 5002334 Center Bearing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPFESW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Here's one for purchase

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota...r-Support-Bearing/283227562388?epid=174948078

 

Thanks again friend.

I keep coming up with more as I look around. I just found spicer(dana)'s website and catalog...they show 2 possibilities for the CB. Only difference I can see is the "Cl to mounting In(B)". What does that mean?...I'm just curious. Anyhow, between the 2 models one is a little under 1/4" and the other is a little under 1/2". Does it matter which one I get? Mainly asking because I don't do ebay and Amazon is out of the one you used. If I have to, I might be able to find someone to order off ebay and I just pay them, but...just asking.

I can't thank ya enough for what you've already answered...much appreciated

EDIT: Looks like amazon is out of both, so I'll just get what you suggested...one way or another .

Still curious what the Cl to mounting In means.

 

When I was originally doing my research a couple years ago, I saw that there were two different ones. One is meant for 4wd and one 2wd. The one I linked above is the 2wd one but I am using it on my 4wd. Doing some reading, someone mentioned the only difference was some sort of dust shield or extra protection from grit, something like that. Something minuscule enough that it doesn't actually matter which one you run. Whether or not that's accurate, not sure.

There are a lot of people running the one above on 4wd with no problems which is why I opted to get the 2wd one because it's more readily accessible. It's been on there for 2 years now, no problems.

 

Awesome. I'll just go with that one then. Once again, thanks a million my friend.

 

Ok, related question:

I'm thinking about getting a one piece DS from Tom Woods.

First...does anyone have any opinions, good or bad, about Tom Woods (the company, not the man lol)?

Second...on their website, it says 72" maximum length (in my case it's transfer case to rear diff. Does anyone know if our trucks are within that maximum? For reference, mine is a double cab, long bed, 4wd.

I know I could measure and I'll need to measure, but I'm not around the truck at the moment and I saw that and was wondering.

BTW, the reason I'm even looking is because future plans may make a one piece necessary...and right now the money is available, and it may not be later

 

I measured it when I got home. If they stay strict to their limit, they won't make one for a DCLB. I didn't measure exactly, but it's more than 72 (which is why I didn't bother measuring exactly).

If I had to guess, I'd say it around 77-78".

Still interested in opinions on the company if anyone has one, but no need to discuss the driveshaft further...at least for me.

 

Ok, job complete.

Few points for future reference for others....

1. Get a ball joint press. I used one from harbor freight, but you can get them free at most parts stores (with deposit, naturally). I did try the hammer method on the first one, just because....I got one cup out that way, and then went to the press 'cause.....fuck that. Part of my problem was probably that I was working on my tailgate...no vise, just laying on the tailgate...and it bounces, so you lose a lot of the force you're working so hard to put on it when it bounces. The press from HF worked fine and the pressing part (end of the threaded part) fits right down the holes and the bigger end is big enough to clear the hole/cup coming out, so no extra cups needed.

2. When you're going back in with the DS, make SURE you put the carrier bearing bracket on correctly. IOW, don't be an idiot like me and put it on upside down (double hole side down), make sure you put it on single hole down the first time .

NOW, if you do put it on upside down and don't think about it/notice it until you're ready to wrap it up and drive it away, and then when you do notice you say "F it, I'm going home...I'll see how it does." You can do that...and as far as I know, in the 25 miles I went home it didn't cause any damage, I think it made a little vibration, but nothing major. SO, when you get home and you pull into your yard.....with grass(remember that)...and you think "I'm gonna flip it...no reason not to", there IS a reason not to...but if you do, don't drop one of the bolts in the yard, in said grass, and lose it...and I mean completely lose it...used a roll around magnet, crawled the entire area...it's GONE. And THEN, if you have to walk to the hardware store and get a M10 - 1.25 bolt, by **shrug**, about an inch and a quarter...inch and a half?..dunno...and then walk back and replace that bolt...finally. You're going to think to yourself "I wish I'd just put that sonofabitch on right the first time"....trust me...you will.

Anyhow, big thanks to @EatSleepTacos for all the advice and links.

 

I agree with jproffer on the press. When I replaced my u-joints a few months ago I used the hammer/socket method and my butt was wore out by the time I got #3 in. The auto parts store will lend it to you as long as you have a credit card they can put a hold on for the price of the press. Next time I'm getting the press.

 

Tip to those doing this with a ball joint press: tap the ears of the yoke with a hammer periodically once you start pressing, it really helps release any binding under tension, so you don't bend the yoke.

 

Didn't even think about tapping them on the way in, but definitely had to after they were in. REALLY tight. Few love taps on the ears of the yokes and they were much better....not "floppy free" but free enough to be good to go.

 

Hey, I just thought of another question...the spicers come with 3 sets of spring clips/cir-clips/whatever you want to call them. The little paper says they are different thicknesses, but I couldn't tell any difference. Anyhow, I used the bronze colored ones...hope that's ok. Seems like the shear strength of any of them would be sufficient, seeing as how the joints are pressed in anyway.

Just curious what others think about the 3 sets of clips.

 

That confused me as well when I got them. I don’t remember which ones I used but I don’t think it matters too much.

 

I don't either. I still have the green ones and the plain metal ones. If I don't forget......again, like I did last night, I'm going to bring em in and give em a once over with the calipers. I can't imagine it's much difference at all, but will report back

 

And the verdict is.................

Green looking cir-clip: Thickness - 0.064"
Diameter - 1.199" (diameter as if it were a full circle)
Flat thickness - 0.094" (lay it down...lay calipers down...measure. Didn't know
what else to call it lol)
Dark brown cir-clip: Thickness - 0.062" (2 thou difference)
Diameter - 1.214" (15 thou difference)
Flat Thickness - 0.093" (1 thou difference)

Don't know about the bronze colored ones because I used them. I don't see enough difference that I would worry about using the wrong ones. I suppose technically, the dark brown ones are stronger than the green ones, but not enough that I care.