TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Pulley's are on. Belts are on. Everything is torqued and tight. Draining oil now. Going to pull the pan and clean it up, let it dry.. and probably tomorrow finish it up.

 

I think the reference was made to the crank pulley holder. It won’t reach to hold the crank pulley with standard length bolts and needs longer ones to hold the crank with the SC pulley on top.

$81 Schley Products 64300 Lexus And Toyota Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XDBB...olid=1X59JMAD2UEFU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

think i misunderstood. was a new tool purchased AND hardware to make it work?

 

The crank pulley tool works with the sc pulley. You just need longer bolts to mount the tool. If I recall they were 15 or 20 mm longer. I have to tool and longer bolts.

 

I'll have to rent that from someone later for peace of mind. I'm hoping this will do for now. Just hit it with my impact and gave it all it could. I'm heading out of town for the weekend so I'll check it now and then. Trying to finish up everything by Saturday morning.. got the oil drained, oil pan pulled, cleaned up both faces.. but wondering what you guys think. This good enough? Have any tips for the sealing process? I'm going to grab some alcohol tomorrow at work and do a final prep/wipe down.

 

So why did you pull the oil pan?

 

Had a gnarly leak.. was seeping from the seal.

 

I figured I'd knock that out too while I was in and under the truck. It's been slowly getting worse.. I stretched it out long as I could. Lol

 

Just a nice bead of RTV and you'll be good to go. Let it dry for an hour or so from the moment you you put it on, then you can fill it with oil and back to action!

 

for that AFR Wideband, was there welding involved? or did this hook up straight into the O2 sensor/bung behind the engine. I'm not in the mood to so I'm going to stimulate the economy and purchase one.

 

You could weld, buy a custom y-pipe by roost or use one of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...6LnoqWTyoYkdEBVyIGNigYEEyhRTd2jUaAqAsEALw_wcB

 

those work pretty well for the quick non weld setup.

 

Hmmm I’m sensing a little hostility here if I’m not mistaken. Ok there may have been some info there regarding my question but I don’t think it’s against the rules to just a simple question about a tensioner and where I can get one from. Your obviously not aware, but parts for the Supercharged 1grfe are hard to come by here as it was not a common car. So once again apologies for a simple question.

 

as long as you get a nice bead and then hand tighten the pan on to let it sit for about an hour. Then, torque it down, or just tighten it with tools. Point is, give it some time to coagulate where it needs to be thick instead of just smashing it on and you get a paper thin seal of RTV inside and big booger all the way around it.

 

Youd have to have a bung added or get an aftermarket ypipe with an extra bung so you can add the extra sensor for the gauge. Like @henryp said, that summit no weld bung is also a good option if you dont want to have one welded

 

THAT'S what I was curious about. I was thinking I should do the same, because it did look like that's what happened previously. It didn't set long enough and squished it all out to the inside. Had a lot to scrape off. I wasn't sure if if should let it set, then install, or do what you suggested. Thank you.

 

Mine is doing that as well. Less than gnarly, but still a problem. Ugh

 

Lol. Sucks right. I put it off as long as I could. Was starting to mist all down the drivetrain

 

Toyota Anti-Frame Rust option....rare and highly desirable.

 

shit, I didnt even have to pay extra!