How much sound deadening and proofing material do I need?

I would believe most MLV function about the same, with little difference between them.
Personally, I do not mind if it uses virgin or recycled material.

 

I suspected as much. Virgin vs recycled doesn't matter to me in terms of performance/function but I've heard recycled material can smell.

 

I actually just read that up, while performance is generally the same, "recycled" MLV can give off a smell.
It could be off gassing and will go away with time, or a permanent lingering smell.

The MLV I have handle had a smell, but went away over a couple of day after install.
Thought all sound reduction products like that, so I never gave it a second thought.
I also use Ozium after Install, and back to new car smell.

edit: sentence structure

 

I like me some new car smell. My taco didn't have it when I bought it.

 

Never heard of Ozium, is it worth the $15 price tag, or is it similar to a Fabreeze type product?

 

I bought mine at Homedepot for $5-6.
Not like febreeze, which encapsulates odors.

Ozium basically poisons the air so bacteria, mold, etc. die, it kills it at the source.
It also neutralizes smoke and other malodors.
Used it before when my friend always smoked in my car....

I know a couple of people that use it to eliminate the smell of alcohol, weed, tabacco, vomit...

One second spray towars the center of the car, and leave for an hour to 4 hours.
Never ever spray while you or anyone else is in the same room.
It is harmful to breathe in.

 

Thanks man, I will grab some ASAP

 

I bought a box of Kilmat 80 mil. I did the driver's two doors and only used about 1/4 of the box and I was liberal with it's application. My hand is very chewed up though! Interestingly enough, I found rust on the metal pull handle support even though the truck is a 2019 and it's garaged. I also had to spend more time prepping as I Fluid Filmed inside the door panels when I bought it.

EDIT: I just found rust on one of the metal window tracks too, passenger front door.

EDIT: One box of 80 mil Kilmat, 36 sq feet, let me do 4 doors, back wall, bench under the backseat and the passenger side. On my 2019 OR I already had a lot of what I call "factory sound deadener" as there was a very similar material there already. I covered over it.

 

How are the results? I am probably going to do the same with 36 sq ft of noico.

 

Second box is on the way, Ill let you know once the job is done.

 

I used about 8-9 sqft per door, putting it on both the outer shell as well as the inside panel. I would say I covered 70-80% of the panels, as opposed to completely blanketing the doors like some others have. In my opinion, covering 75% of the doors is a little overkill, and covering it 90% + is a waste of product.

I did find a small 3”x 4” (+/-) patch of OEM sound deadening in the middle of my doors (2017 TRD OR), and it just pissed me off that Toyota could not do more of such a simple and effective detail that almost transforms the driving experience.

I believe the headliner would really help out with wind noise, maybe more than the doors, but I doubt I am going to dive that deep into it unless quarantine goes on for months and I have nothing better to do. I also have a prinsu rack that I think adds to it, even with the noise reducing strip. The doors were easy, the headliner looks pretty involved to remove.

I tried to upload a short video showing the difference in my doors (with the Noico and without) but TW prompts me that “it doesn’t have an allowed extension”.

 

For four doors, back wall, and the entire floor it took me about 1.2 boxes. I also did the back of the plastic rear cubbies.
I notice a difference but it exacerbates (or makes more noticeable) the wind noise from the front driver's window, now I gotta figure out how to do something about that.
Ill tackle the headliner at some point.

 

Not sure I want to tackle the headliner, the material it is made out of seems like it could show creases easily if it bends.

 

Is the headliner able to me maneuvered out of the cab? I see a lot of people dropping it, but I’d rather not work around it.

Also, I don’t see any mention of using neoprene as a decoupling layer on top of MVL.

I have all the stuff for mine, I just gotta find time to get it installed.

mine will go completely top to bottom, left to right, like so:

Body metal -> CLD -> CCF -> MLV -> neoprene -> interior panel/plastics.

 

We are talking head liners and I was just searching around... I'm driving this truck until it burns to the ground so if I go to the trouble to drop my head liner I am seriously considering this

 

We can argue that the flag (he’s using and cut an actual flag here) being used that way is disrespectful. Beyond that though, it looks horrible, not to mention the stars are on the wrong side. So failures all around on that persons vehicle.

 

I assume it's possible to get it out of the cab... they had to get it in there, right? Probably would require removing the windshield though.

 

thats kinda what I thought. Either that or the entire back window.

 

I think I read it's possible but quite tricky. Working around it is a pain, yes, but if you do it when you do everything else, most of your interior will be out so that might make it easier. May even let you maneuver it out.

I'm using neoprene in my setup, so it's been mentioned in this thread. Why are you doing neoprene and CCF? I was under the impression neoprene is a CCF. That said, I won't be using the neoprene everywhere as it's 1/16". I was thinking doing CLD -> Noico red (CCF + thermal) -> MLV (where it fits).

 

it is meant to isolate (technically "decouple") the direct transmission of vibrations from any panel to the mlv, thus making the MLV more effective as itself is not vibrating (or vibrating less).

Neoprene shouldn’t be used as a substitute for CCF, it should be used as a decoupling layer for the MLV only.