Truck can't get aligned, pulls right

I don't see how any of my measurements have been "pointless", and I tried your end of axle to flange measurement which didn't work because the flange is not centered. I don't have the Plumb bob tool yet, or any other of the aforementioned tools for measuring besides a tape measure which I've tried to use to the best of my ability.

You act like I'm not listening but I'm trying to answer everyone's suggestions the best I can with what little experience I have doing this. But thanks, I guess. Feel free to unsubscribe from my thread.

 

I would do WMS-WMS and find the center of the axle that way.

if you mark the center on the top front and top rear of the diff you should be able to draw a line that you can compare to the frame rails to see if the axle is truly perpendicular to the rails.

 

Yeah my hub to hub measurements were off by almost 2" side to side, but since my front caster might not necessarily be the same on both sides it's hard to use the front hub as a reference point. I think I could try using string from one point on the left/front of the frame back to the rear hub and do the same on the other side to see if they match, or how far off they are.

WMS?

I see your point about marking the center of the differential top/bottom, I'll try that this afternoon after work

 

wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface

 

Have an appt tomorrow before noon to have a body/frame shop take a look, they're just up the street from me. Talked to the guy on the phone and he's saying that there is a certain amount of play in the rear axle and that it just needs to be shifted into place, but I don't think there's that much play in there. They're going to look at it regardless and tell me what they think. Will update you guys when I know more

 

None. I put my tools away and started a few years ago on a software engineering degree. Bending wrenches doesn’t pay squat.

on another note, if there is enough play in the rear axle spring perches then the alignment holes are worn too far. This can only be caused by loose u-bolts.

 

Best of Luck if they can do 4 wheel alignments they should figure it out quick.

If they are good.

Will they let you observe up close ??

 

When I installed the Alcan leaf springs a couple weeks ago, the center pins fit snug in the spring perch holes on both sides

When I put the new u-bolts on last weekend, I even put a ratchet strap around the axle to the frame to try and bring the one side more forward, didn't feel like there was any play there to work with. I'll see what they say when they look at it tomorrow though.

Yeah he mentioned letting me watch them do their measurements, I'm going to drop it off around noon so I can be there to watch. Gotta take my daughter to her 4 month old checkup/vaccines in the AM first

 

Went by Monrovia Collision Center today up the street from me, wasn't very eventful but the tech did spend some time talking it over with me and giving me his thoughts. Long story short, he didn't think it warranted me leaving it there for them to work on...doesn't think it's a frame issue. He went over all the body panels on the truck and told me if the frame had been pulled or bent enough to tweak the rear axle like that, it would show elsewhere.

Gave me a couple tips on where to measure from to see how much I should try and move it back into place, recommended I basically do what I already did but try it again with a bigger strap (remove u-bolts and ratchet strap the axle into place). If that fails, he recommended I just put a relocation plate on one side to even it out.

He stressed that given how I built and use my truck, I'll drive myself crazy trying to rule out imperfection in every little detail and I have to agree.

I measured across the axle wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, determined where the center of it was on the bottom of the differential and marked it. Measured from that point about 4ft up the frame on both sides...50" exactly on both (used a factory hole in the frame on both sides to measure to)

Used the center mark on the rear diff to determine where the center point on the pinion flange would be, marked that as well and measured from there to the axle on both sides. Got a variation side to side of about .5"

Made a crude definitely not-to scale drawing of how I measured this AM, easier than taking pics of it.



Once it cools down later in the week I'll take my u-bolts off again and see if I can ratchet strap both sides to work it into place, if not then I'll consider the relocation plate.

 

I dunno how the variation in wheelbase side to side plays into it, but if you’re on the original lca bushings I’d be curious to see what condition they’re in.

not sure how .5” difference at that measurement would impact things so severely.

Are the lca cam bolts aligned similarly on either side?

 

if my thinking is true, the measurements will always be the same (your 50" mark) since the diff is in the center. it's actually your "center" point.

try measuring where you did on the frame to the axle housing itself (inside the WMS, straight line down the frame to axle housing) and then again on the opposite side (like an X) and see what the difference is?

 

https://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/wheels-in-motion-wheel-set-back/

this was actually a fascinating read. the two strings and perpendicular laser was very relevant

 

That article is on point and on topic

 

LCA bushings are on my priority to do list, here's my cam bolts. They're not identical side to side but not that far off.

stock LCA bushings with 90k on them

 

That's an interesting article thanks, the part about rear wheel set back on the Chevy and the measuring process makes sense to me. I was actually at Harbor Freight yesterday looking at their measurement tools, almost convinced myself to get the laser and angle finder gauge but couldn't think of how to use it here. That article spells it out pretty clearly

 

This is true, the axle my be in the center of the vehicle however one side may be pushed forward or backward. Like stated, use the same locations as your 50" measurements and go all the way across to the back of the axle flange on the opposite side.

 

First off, good luck figuring this out.

Second, I dont know what I'm talking about.

Third, per the bold it seems you found the issue. It is a half inch off side to side on the axle when it shouldn't be. Doesnt that mean the axle is bent OR not "alligned" at a perpendicular angle to the frame? Given the drawing is not to scale, a .5" difference at the measured location would be compounded and get worse further out towards the wheel I think. So if it is an "allignment" issue hopefully you could ratchet strap it back, but given your experience it doesnt seem there is that much play to do so. If not, and bent, replace the rear axle right?

I think @tacomgee bent a rear axle. Perhaps he also noticed different distances for the rear wheels from the wheel wells?

 

He bent a rear axle housing or rear axle shaft? When I first started this thread I was afraid of a bent rear axle shaft, but learned pretty quickly that wasn't the case based on a lack of other symptoms.

Jury is still out on the axle housing either being askew or bent, to the eye it's not bent but the eye can only be so accurate of a judge. The method in the article that frizz man posted spelled out a good method of checking to see if it's bent or askew which I plan on giving a shot here pretty soon. If it is bent then a relocation plate won't really help - it'll just shift the problem to the other side, so it would be good for me to at least determine if it's a bent or askew housing

 

I support the comments looking into the steering components. Tie rod ends or bent rods themselves.. even parking against a curb too hard can do this. Bushings are a common one.

I also bent a rear axle once: symptoms included vibration, and visible rear wheel wobble (I'm running 33x12.5r15). I changed the bearing and got my symptoms back 3000mi later. Both times I did NOT tear up the seal so do not rely on this for indication. My axle was out .012" - a machine shop can put the axle in their lathe and let you know it's condition, takes 5 min of their time they likely won't even charge you. You CANNOT eye-ball this small of variance so don't try. Though, based on your comments it sounds like not the issue.
Housing not properly aligned CAN be an issue. Have someone follow you- look for dog tracking/crab walkin. If you're alone, get your tires wet and drive 20' on dry pavement/cement. Your rear tracks should fall on top/in line with your front. This only verifies Left/Right positioning in reference to your vehicle's center. The pull to the right and longer measurement on passenger side would also infer the potential your housing is 'turned' toward the right (or clockwise if looking from above).
If it's pulling as bad as you make it sound, and you're confident it's in the rear end you should feel this is coming from outside your immediate steering components. If you can imagine the feeling of sitting in a boat and a wave pushes you from behind and slightly spinning the boat... lol if that makes sense they are similar feelings.

I don't recall if it was made clear.. what was the onset of this pull to the right?? Immediate or gradual? Hit any major potholes or bumps recent? Any sweet jumps?

 

haha, no sweet jumps. I stay away from high speed 4wd stuff, but 4lo and slow is my jam. And that often involves climbing over rocks and such which can very well FUBAR the front alignment numbers, I've spent good money on front alignments over the years. And I'm still on my stock LCA bushings which is why I do think you are right about needing to check on those.

Tie rods (inner and outer) are new as of last Sept, I replaced those and the LBJs at around the same time. Haven't done much wheeling since then in the last year since we had a baby and then this quarantine stuff happened, and the right hand pull has been an issue for over a year now.