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Light Bar Wiring and Switch - 2013 AC

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by pridgway, May 11, 2020.

  1. May 11, 2020 at 10:18 AM
    #1
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The 2013 AC TRD OR 4.0L V6 i recently bought came with a light bar installed below the grille, but unplugged and wiring left zip-tied inside the grill. The previous owner removed the switch panel he had installed in the sunglasses holder and left me the light bar to wire up how i see fit. Now i have to figure out which harnesses and switches i want to purchase and hook back up to get the lights operational again. Does anyone have experience with these specific wiring connections? Id entertain buying a switch panel to reserve slots for future mods, but nothing particular in mind at the moment. I have the OR model so the only option i see right now for a factory location is below the center dash console next to ATRAC

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  2. May 11, 2020 at 10:20 AM
    #2
    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    I would just tap into the high beams. This way you can use it on the road when you need to and when a vehicle is coming it'll shut off w/ the highs.
     
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  3. May 11, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #3
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i like that idea. i expect that every time i turn on my high beams the bar would come on as well? seems easy enough to try out and then if id rather have the ability to turn them on/off independently i can always go to separate wiring and switch from there..
     
  4. May 11, 2020 at 10:27 AM
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    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    That's how I have my lightforce lights wired. I have a switch to cut power to them anytime. But, they only turn on w/ the high beams. I noticed that when using them on backroads and a car was coming I'd have to hunt for the switch every time and blind people. This way has been great.
     
  5. May 11, 2020 at 10:32 AM
    #5
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud Professional Grease Monkey

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    Using the search function would help narrow what you're trying to find. This post is recent using 3 way switches, or you could try posting to the lighting forum for more helpful resources.

    -J
     
  6. May 11, 2020 at 10:34 AM
    #6
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    great, ill look into doing this. are there any downsides of having the light bar paired with high beams vs regular head lights? im thinking projections or excessive power being drawn from battery? have you had to keep an eye out for anything?
     
  7. May 11, 2020 at 10:36 AM
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    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    No, LED's draw very little power. But I've got a pretty big 94R AGM battery so not real worried about any of that.
     
  8. May 11, 2020 at 10:36 AM
    #8
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    sure, will take a peak, thx
     
  9. May 11, 2020 at 10:44 AM
    #9
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    diabetiktaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. May 11, 2020 at 10:54 AM
    #10
    JustAddMud

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    Your light bar wouldn't be paired to your high beams, your high beam signal wire will switch a relay that is getting power from your battery. I wouldn't go tapping and splicing into vehicle harnesses unless you are absolutely sure about what your doing otherwise you'll probably :bananadead:

    -J
     
  11. May 11, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #11
    pridgway

    pridgway [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok great, thats input i like to hear. i meant pairing as in one switch to control them both on/off. thanks for the advice!

    ive done some searching, but the connections i have seem different to other common light bar wiring harnesses i have seen. I want to make sure im getting the right equipment
     
  12. May 11, 2020 at 11:02 AM
    #12
    TegoTaco

    TegoTaco Well-Known Member

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    Have my light bar wired so they come on with my high beams, why make it complicated.
     
  13. May 11, 2020 at 11:04 AM
    #13
    JustAddMud

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    I thought that thread looked familiar :anonymous:
    I have a better wiring diagram that I redid, I didn't end up going with the last diagram that I drew. The diagram I used is in the initial reply to this thread.
    Edit:
    [​IMG]
    This diagram. 3-way toggle switches, up = light bar on with high beams pulling power from a tap from high beams, mid = off, down = on always pulling power from a 12v ign source.

    Looking at your first picture, it looks like the male connector is your positive, which would put the female as your ground. Typically, Red is hot and black is ground for aftermarket wiring.

    It's mainly a safety precaution. I like to keep my aftermarket wiring separate from my vehicle wiring for those 'just in case' moments.

    -J
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2020

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