Yet Another DC Manual Swap Thread

Toyota red and distilled water in any toyota I care about... otherwise autozone special!

 

Radiator arrived today. Box wasn't in the best of shape but the radiator itself seems perfect. Really happy with the fit and finish on it. I had originally planned on putting the Toyota red and ordered some on Amazon a week ago, so glad to see that is what they recommend anyhow. Did find the strict prohibition of chemical additives a bit interesting. I've included the leaflet they provided in the box.


More pictures are coming as lots of items have arrived, just haven't had the time to make a proper post.

Decided to do something crazy with the clutch pedal assembly (under dash) and create a complete new assembly out of OE toyota parts from the dealership. Ends up costing over double what I could get one from a parts yard for, but it seemed like a fun project. Basically took a breakdown of the assembly and sourced each part and ordered it.

I will be making an entire post about or maybe even a separate thread in case someone else wanted to duplicate it for some reason or needed a part number etc.

 

T-case Arrived today. Pics are in a separate thread because I have some questions about getting it restored before installation in a couple weeks.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-to-me-vf1a-transfer-case.663791/

Twin sticks from Front Range Off-Road are getting here today also

 

I didn't make the connection that was you in the other thread, now I get why you got that transfer case. hopefully it works out, good luck!

 

Haha, thanks man. Yeah it's a bit interesting buying used parts on the internet. Not something I am particularly accustomed to. So far the experience has been good, but I've really taken my time and spent hours researching and double checking before pulling the trigger.

Started cleaning all the crud off the outside last night. Once I get the outside somewhat reasonable I am gonna pull the shifter base and have a gander. My guess is sadly it was probably stored and shipped without any covering over the empty shift base.

 

You will probably be fine, they are pretty strong cases. The only way to know is to inspect it and run it and see what happens.
Luckily the transfer case is not that much of a pain to drop and reinstall.. now the transmission itself, I try not to have to drop those out very often.

 

That radiator is puuuuuurdy and what a ripping score you made out with when they said they'd just send you the whole assembly that had the piece you wanted! Its nice when that stuff happens to the good guys, right?

 

Thanks man! I am itching to install it but plenty of other side projects to keep me busy in the mean time, while I wait for the trans from Marlin. Funny story, due to all the 'rona crap the original fan clutch I ordered still hasn't arrived. Once, it does it's just getting sent right back anyway...

 

Anyone aware whether the front and rear driveshafts would have to be modified to do a auto-to-manual swap on a 2002 4x4 ex cab? I assume the lengths would be similar to the double cab, the frame is the same is it not?

 

I think the frame is the same. Either way the cross-member mounting point for the transmission/transfer case isn't moving and the auto trans is longer than the manual trans. the transfer cases are the same, I bolted my auto one to the 5spd.
You will need the 5spd "mount" though that sits on the crossmember, as they are shaped differently for the length difference.

I had to have the front portion of the rear driveshaft lengthened some on my double cab, can't remember exactly but it wasn't a crazy amount.. but it was enough to make me worry that the stock length wouldn't cut it (even though it expands a little).
Since the front portion of the rear shaft is the "ballooned" type (thicker in the middle than the ends), the shop replaced the whole font tube vs cutting and extending.

The front drive-shaft actually ends up needing to be shorter the same amount, but there is enough space for it to compress and still have travel.
The rear one would have been too extended to just try and bolt it on and have it not fall out while driving etc..

So extend front portion of rear driveshaft (in front of the donut), and the front one will just collapse some.. old grease will squeeze out prolly.

 

Thanks for the response, very helpful! I did a bit of research myself and saw that some people had aluminum spacers installed as well to take up the length of the rear driveshaft. One argument is that the torque could shear the bolts, but at 18 years old I doubt my engine puts out nearly enough torque to bust a grade 8 bolt, let alone 4.

 

Yeah that would work also, didn't think about that one. My local driveshaft shop does good work and is reasonable, so I had them overhaul it while extending it.
Chances are if you have never replaced the rubber donut that it could use a replacement, and u joints at least inspected.
I think the manual has higher ratios, and it'll feel like it has more torque, but I can't see it being enough to brake the bolts either so that would work also.

 

Yeah I’m certain my carrier bearing, the donut, and my u joints could use some love in the form of a rebuild.

 

Yeah the carrier bearing likely needs replaced and it's really easy to do. I did mine by following a guide I found on TW. Bought OEM from Toyota. Pics are in my build thread if you're curious.. it was really toast but had nearly 300k.

 

Clutch pedal assembly using all new OEM parts is completed. They finally arrived today

More pics of other stuff to follow once I get around to it. Soon hopefully. Cleaning and organizing the garage this evening and I think I talked myself into starting the teardown before the new transmission arrives. Kind of like the idea of doing it somewhat slowly and that way hopefully the trans will be all ready to slam in once it's built and shipped.

 

Toyota red for the coolant. Recommended for both the 5VZ and for the 1KZ, so you should just use it too if you still haven't decided. Since this radiator was designed specifically for the 3rd Gen 4Runner (with a 5VZ motor as an OEM option), I have a hard time believing that you wouldn't be able to also use the OEM coolant with it.

 

Thanks man. Yeah already have 3 gal of concentrate Toyota Red en-route from Amazon. Though some days I wonder if it will ever show up... Shipping during these times is a bit hit and miss.

 

Started digging in over the weekend. Decided to start the disassembly ahead of having all of the parts for lots of reasons. Very glad that I did. I have found lots of little issues along the way that need tending.

• Oil pan is leaking (FIPG en-route from Toyota, really good to do this before converting to 4x4 because that will be a real bitch after anyway)
• Both valve covers are leaking (en-route from Toyota, should arrive Wed)
• Battery cables are in rough shape (Ordered new cables, ends and tools to build them from Amazon and E-Bay)
• Decided to upgrade ALT to the 105 amp (
  $164 Denso 210-0461 Denso First Time Fit Alternator - 210-0461
  Denso 210-0461)
• Starter looks to be original, so decided to order all wear parts and rebuild end to end while I have it out. (brushes, springs, plunger, contacts, bearings, gear etc)

General Garage Action Shot:

Flushed the radiator with 8 gallons of distilled water prior to disassembly. Truck appeared to have Toyota Red fluid in it based on the color of what came out. Followed @Timmah!'s guide for doing so. Worked very well and water was really near clear once the 8 gal were through.

Pulled the trans cooler lines as they won't be reinstalled.
Lower fan shroud was missing completely (likely contributor to running warm)
Pulled the fan clutch and it was really messed up. It would barely even turn. Explains the quick squeak when starting the vehicle. (This is likely the primary cause of my issue)

Pulled the inside apart and removed the shift lever and assembly:

Mock up for the manual boot assembly:


Next I decided to pull the auto transmission out. I did this slightly differently than Timmy recommended. I removed the trans mount to cross-member bolts, loosened the cross-member to frame bolts (4) and left it in place while I pulled all bell housing bolts. Then put the trans jack in place and and pulled the cross-member out. Quick wiggle on the tail cone in each direction and it popped right off and out. Carefully lowered and backed it out of the tunnel and out from under the truck. Went smooth as butter. Was very pleased.

Anyone need a good working auto trans (I have the perfect setup for someone looking to swap to an auto from a manual... but who would do that?)

Got all hyped to install my clutch on the back of the motor and replace the RMS, but alas was able to confirm that the pan itself is also leaking and I got thinking about how hard it would be to fix down the road... so add another item to the list lol.

Here you can see it leaking at the back and also both valve covers leaking, which was no surprise:


So hopefully this next weekend I can dig into the following:

• Drop oil pan and clean and seal. Replace oil pickup tube and gasket also, while I am in there...
• Replace both valve cover gaskets per Tim's video (grommets, plug seals etc)
• Do complete timing job from Timmy's video using Aircabinman's kit.
• Inspect and adjust valve lash and replace all cam seals
• Replace rear main seal
• Install pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
• Fab holes for clutch master on firewall and drill/mount
• Finish cutting shift tunnel for manual and transfer case

But we shall see how she goes! It's getting very warm in AZ and work has been a bear lately. Many more updates to follow!

 

ive been doing my reaseach to do this swap a 4x4 manual hub swap. been looking at copart to buy a salvaged one

 

Same here although I’m not too concerned about switching to the manual hubs. I’d just be happy with a 5 speed.