Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Thanks again for the wealth of information here! After more cutting, bending, and heat molding I was able to successfully join the club today.



After an alignment I suspect I'll have close to zero rub. I do need to look into some bumpstops, though. I don't want to unintentionally start a tubbing process with my fenders when I'm on a trail.

 

Oh shit. If you wanna hit some trails around tacoma I'm all ears. I'd love to check out how aggressive of some cutting bending and heat gunning it takes

 

Would love to! I'm new to the area so I'm game for meeting new people and checking out some trails.

 

guys I've been trying to get 35's under my tacoma for a while now and finally got the rims and tires
dura trac 315 70 17
rims procomp

$121 pcw97-7983s3.5 pro comp steel wheels series 97 wheel with gloss black finish (17x9"/6x5.5") (PCW97-7983S3.5)

pcw97-7983s3.5
the rims hit the caliper if anyone is thinking about getting them dont they will not work without a spacer,
these particular rims have a bs of 3.5inches and still hit the caliper.
just a fyi

 

I’m getting steel rims made to fit the Tacoma I’ll post up about them once they get here. They will clear the caliper.

 

What size spacer on the bumps? I’m thinking the same.

 

Rack upgrade has a thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/steering-rack-upgrade-for-2nd-and-3rd-gens.666773/

 

Something like this? I know you said you cut the entire end off. Does that make it easier to cut? Don’t really see the benefit unless more piece of mind?

Also, how the hell do you guys cut the top part with the fender wall there? Seems like it’d be difficult to get that part.

 

4 inch grinder for most of it then a 3 inch cut off wheel in an air too. Cut the bottom first then work your way up dissecting it. Or find a buddy with a torch or plasma.

 

Exactly like that for the most part. I'll go a little further inwards to the frame on the front face. I cut from the top just angle the cutoff wheel so that it doesn't hit. Also cut it off in sections to gain better access. If I have access to a plasma that's the easiest way. I've also used a sawzall for a big initial cut then finite with the cutoff wheel (is a little more crude this way).

 

Thanks both. I get what you mean now. Seems like a couple ways to do it. So the bolt plate on top is pretty close to the cut already. I’m guessing the replacement plate will have to be at an angle since I’ll be cutting more away at the bottom than the top?

 

Yes. The typical CMC plates we sell are 11ga that's the closest matched thickness to the frame where it is single thickness. I've used 3/16" (a little overkill) and also have just left them completely open. If I'm doing a really aggressive I use paper or like a manilla folder to make the shape then cut it out. Tack it in then hammer it around the corner tack, hammer, tack etc. until it's the shape it needs to be.

 

Damn you guys are awesome. Thanks for the tips.

 

Yeah man! No problem. It's ok to go slow and take your time and also just take little bits off. Don't need to go for the gusto off the bat.

 

I’m on 35”.

 

After running it for over a year with it left open, I would not suggest this. I knew a cab mount relocate was going to happen and if you plan it aswell it will be fine. But when I did my relocate you could see the mount was starting to bend because of the lack of support. I did cut alot off though and your results might be different.

 

Got any other angles? I can't really tell from that picture. Thanks for the feedback.

Also, I don't see how closing it up is going to help with the loading in that case. The plate being welded on probably isn't taking any load whatsoever. Seems like it's adding more of a closure than anything. It really depends home much cantilever support is left on from the original mount I think.

 

Oh yeah, that's just a super weak support it looks like.

 

Any good trails around here? I usually drive up further East