OVTune 3.5L Tacoma Supercharger and Twin Turbo Systems

Depending on how popular our TT kits become we will scale to it.

We are already in communication with a company that will be bringing something else cool for these engines.
Stroke kits.
Maybe we turn the 3.5 back into a 4.0. That's when a big big shop may be required.

 

Wild lol

Any update on the possibility of catted dump tubes?

 

Is this an accurate picture of the turbo's mounted?

 

Yes

 

Thanks. I may be able to move the compressor a couple inch's closer to passenger fender. Giving enough room we shall see when the turbos are mounted.

 

That would make me really want to find a spare engine from a wrecked truck just to build up and still have a spare... Damn, with twin snails a 4.0 in this truck would be outrageous. I imagine we would need to start looking into built transmissions at that point too.

 

That could be cool when rebuilding the engine, otherwise it will probably only appeal to the most dedicated.

As a 4.0 non boosted engine what do you anticipate for torque? Any efficiency gains?

 

I did the turbos. As far as stroking the engine I’ll just have to admire the crazies who turn this thing into a drag truck

I don’t want to be that guy with a 100k Tacoma

 

For those looking for FMIC options that will work with winches...

Thanks to Turd Hawg for paving the way to find solutions for winch friendly FMIC's

I installed a Treadstone TR10C
specs: Core Size 10.5" X 22" X 3.5"
Overall length 28"
-1050 CFM flow rate
-700 HP efficient
-Less than 1.5psi pressure drop at max flow

also bought the following for the FMIC brace:
- 3/4" x 48" 12 Gauge zinc plated steel stock, 1" x 48" 12 Gauge aluminum stock (both at Home Depot )
- stainless steel M8 x 16 mm and M8 x 20mm flanged bolts with flanged locking nuts

I took my 4-1/2" Small Angle Grinder with metal cutting wheel and cut the steel stock into 32" long piece. Then I made a 3" long 90 degree bend at each end. Next I marked the holes to be drilled. There were a total of 8 holes: one at each end to fasten the FMIC to, 4 additional holes to fasten the FMIC brace to the OEM bumper metal bracket and two additional slightly larger holes to allow the plastic clips that hold the plastic front grill to fasten through the FMIC brace.

I used a 5/16” drill bit to drill the 6 smaller holes and a 3/8” drill bit for the larger 2 holes for the OEM plastic clips.

For the 2 holes that attach to the FMIC, I drilled each hole approximately 2" from the 90 degree bend allowing the FMIC to sit above the bumper and allowing about 3/4" of space between the bottom of FMIC and the bumper.

Next I fastened the FMIC brace using 4 sets of the M8 x 20mm flanged bolts with flanged locking nuts. The black OEM bumper plastic clips just fastened through the FMIC brace.




Next, just attach the TR10C to the FMIC brace using the M8 x 16 mm flanged bolts and tighten down once the FMIC is tilted back enough to your liking. There is a little wiggle room but the FMIC should sit just below the hood latch mechanism without interfering. There was plenty of room for the OEM horn and I assume the AT oil cooler although I have a MT so I can't confirm this.



AS you can see, there is plenty of room to incorporate OVT's intercooler piping routed through the existing holes behind the headlights. Either a 60 degree or 45 degree silicone coupler should work well to mate up to OVT's piping in the TT kit. I am going to try and use as much of OVT's kit piping with as little modification as possible.




Last thing: I had to cut the bottom inner side shroud of the OEM grille so that it would accommodate the FMIC and brace. I cut out about 1.5" deep and about 28" long piece which would have sat where the FMIC brace attached. I again used the angle grinder with metal cutting blade but a dremmel would work fine.


FINALLY, I am going to use the 1" aluminum stock and cut a 5" long piece to be welded on the top of the FMIC. This will create a bracket to attach to the top of the radiator core support. This will add just enough additional support to prevent the brace from moving around when driving. Although the TR10C is very secure using the existing bottom brace (which is holding the weight of the FMIC), a third top brace is needed.

I am going to have a local welder do the fabricating and I will post the pics in a couple weeks.

PM me if you have questions. Hope this provides some good info for those who want a WINCH friendly FMIC for OVT's TT Kit.

 

Looks really nice ! Got me thinking maybe i should have gone with the TR10. Are you able to get a 45 or 60 coupler behind the headlight without it hitting the light housing?

 

Can't confirm 100% until I have one to test fit, but 99.9% sure it will fit. THere's a lot of room. The extra 1" on each side of the TR10C (vs. TR1035) really helps.

 

i am ordering the power max “big boys” and I was going to complete my order, but the fuel system is sold out. Didn’t count on that being an issue. Is that something that will be back in stock by the time you start sending out power max turbo kits?

I did already pay for the manifolds.

 

It isn't sold out we just haven't started accepting orders for them yet

 

Awesome. Thanks. completing order now.

Complete. See you soon, boys.

 

@OVTune I saw you confirmed this is how the turbos look for production, but is this also the final intercooler design you went with in the end? I saw you changed them at some point during all of this IIRC.

So about to order an intercooler, just curious, how did you guys decide on which IC to go with? I used the search feature and looked through a fair amount of discussion. I never saw anything that led you or others to the decision to go with this IC. Was it strictly based off of dimensions for the area?

I see the TR1035 is rated for 600HP, even at 20+ PSI boost the truck is making under 500 hp, could I not just order one of the 500 HP efficient IC's and be fine?

Maybe I'm reading too much on the internet and the difference is unnoticeable, but having a bigger IC than needed just causes a slow down in air flow or boost lag. However the slow down of air does cool better so maybe it's a fair trade off.

This is pretty new concept to me on boosting any "reliable" feedback is appreciated lol if you guys can link me to some good reads even better.

 

I can't give you any reliable or informed feedback, but I can tell you why 'I' chose that particular intercooler. OV originally had a TR1235 for boost, then switched to the CXRacing one he's using now, both are bar and plate. I read good reviews for Treadstone, so I bought one similar sized, was bar and plate, and would fit in the hole. That was the extent of my decision.

I often think about your question though. I also think about whether changing the FMIC size, or piping all 3" instead of OVs 2.5" hot side, or more/less 90s like we are all doing, is going to impact the tuning. I don't have an answer for either unfortunately.

TR1035
10.5 x 22 x 3.5 = 808.5 cu.in

CXRacing (OV Kit)
11 x 24 x 3 = 792 cu.in

 

Like Hawg, I just went with the biggest cooler that would fit in the space behind the grille and was comparable to what Mat was using in size and quality. The 1035 and TR10C are almost identical in core size.

Although I am definitely no expert, the ability to cool the hot, compressed air takes precedence over PSI drop or turbo lag IMO. You don't want a situation where you have knock and ignition issues because the air is not cooled enough. Turbos (especially TT snails) create a ton of heat, especially if you live in a warmer climate.

Somewhere buried about 50 pages back, Mat had given a link regarding a similar FMIC which he thought was an adequate alternative for this kit. I vaguely recall that it was a FMIC for BMW sedan. However, there will be many options available

 

the hunt continues, I expect Mat will chime in tomorrow when they start back at work. I saw where it said off the 18th and 19th.

I have plenty of time, I'm hoping he releases an install write up before this stuff ships out and a parts list. That will be great to see what all I need to order.