Energy Suspension body mount bushing replacement on 1st gen double cab

I'd noticed my body mount bushings were worn out and needed replacing, so like many others, ordered the energy suspension bushings. I ordered part

$129 8.4107G Body Mount Set for Toyota

8.4107G, which many sites claimed was for all 2001-2004 tacomas. Turns out this isn't exactly the case. The rearmost (3rd) top bushing in this kit it too short for a double cab, which causes a misalignment and potential body to frame contact. I'm working to get the correct parts, but had to reinstall my OEM bushing until I can get them.

Stock vs OEM rearmost bushing (position 3). Over a 1/4" difference in height.



That out of the way, here's a quick write to hopefully make the job go smoother.

About a week before you start, spray all the bolts down the PB blaster. There's 6 bushing bolts, and 8 plate bolts (2 each on the middle and rear mounts). Doesn't hurt to wire brush the bolts while you're down there.

When you're ready, gather supplies. Besides standard hand tools, it really helps to have a impact, some crows feat or swivel head wrenches, and ratcheting wrenches. Don't forget to have a handful of 2x4s as well. You'll want some at least 4' long to get the leverage you need. Shorter ones are also handy for supporting the body.

Next, remove all the nuts on the body bushing bolts on the side your're going to replace first, and looses them as much as you're able on the other side. If you don't, it's unlikely you'll be able to move the body up high enough to remove the OEM bushing, especially on the middle mount. You may also want to loosen your steering column slip joints at this point. I didn't, and had to fight to get it re-aligned once I was done.



Position 1 bolts are at the radiator and are easily accessed without removing anything.
Position 2 requires the front door lower trim pieces to be removed and the carpet pulled back slightly. Remove the black cap, to access the bolt head.
Position 3 is behind the rear seats. Fold the seats down, the pull up the carpet. Remove the black cap, to access the bolt head. Note there are built in retainers, so you need to rotate the bolt before you can remove it.

Position 3 bolt showing retainers


You'll want to start replacing the bushing from front to back, doing one side then the other.

For position 1, you'll be able to get enough clearance to remove and replace the bushing using a pry bar. Install the new bushing and old bolt, but do not install the nut. You can't get clearance to remove the other bushings on that side with this one tight. I'd recommend pulling all the bolts, wire brushing them and then giving them a coat of anti-seize or grease. Some of mine had a fair bit of pitting developing.

Position 1 new bushing installed


For position 2, put a floor jack and some wood just forward of the bushing on the pinch weld. Raise the body using the jack enough to get a piece of wood in to use as a lever. Sliders make this way easier. Make sure to put some wood in to hold the body high enough above the frame. Do not rely on the jack and wood alone as it's extremely unstable.

Once you've raised the body enough you'll have access to the nuts/bolts on the bushing plate. These were the most difficult to remove, as there's very little clearance between the bolt head and body. Ratcheting wrenches are a huge plus here. Take the time to verify that the nuts on the bottom of the frame perch aren't welded on. I had some that were and some that weren't (or at least weren't anymore). If they are, remove the bolt from the top, if they're not, an impact on the bottom makes short work of them.

Once removed, you can slide the OEM bushing out. This takes an ton of room. Make sure to lift in small increments, taking the time to look for any stressed connectors between the frame and body, including the steering column. This is worst on the passenger side. Install the new bushing, and the install the bolt, but not the nut.

Position 3 is very similar to position 2, but slightly easier. These nuts were welded, so removal was from the top. Easy on the passenger side, but the gas tank really limits access on the drivers side. Again, ratcheting wrenches and low profile sockets are your friend here.

Use of floor jack and wood to raise body to access position 3 bushing.



After you've completed one side, lower the body and install the nuts so they're just on the threads. Do not tighten them too much. You can now remove the nuts of the other side and repeat the process.

With both sides complete, tighten everything down. Don't worry about the exact torque too much as there's a metal sleeve inside the bushing that prevents it from over-compressing. Re-install/connect any wires/steering shaft you had previously disconnected, and you'll all set.

EDIT:Fixed photos

 

Your pictures did not work!

 

Great write up! Thank you for posting.

 

I had the same problem with my double cab, ended up stacking washers on top of the bushing until the height was correct. Recently installed a day star 1 in lift/ poly bushing combo with no probs like that

 

I ran into the same issue with the Energy Suspension body mount bushings several years ago. If you search the forums and read 100s of posts, you might find it. I went back and forth with Energy Suspension's engineers. In the end, they admitted they didn't have a complete kit for the first gen double cab. They ended up sending me a pair of the taller bushings from the regular/extended cab kit. They worked, but weren't.exactly the correct height. Since I have a 1" body lift, I contacted Roger Brown at 4crawler.com(he made the body lift kit for my truck) and he made new cab corner lift pucks that were taller than an inch to get the corners ba k to the correct height.

 

I know this is an old thread, but it's one Google kept taking me to when searching for double cab body mounts. They make them now.
Part# 8.4112

 

So potentially a dumb question, but do these affect ride or anything? I know poly bushings are stiffer and tend to squeak but I’ve only used this in suspension and steering. Any insight from someone who’s installed these? Do they have a kit for the bed or does that mount straight to the frame?

 

There's no noticable change in ride quality. Most replace with polyurethane due to price difference. I think oem is around $50 per bushing.

The bed is mounted directly to the frame, no isolation.

 

G is black and R is red. No difference.

I reused the old hardware.

 

So I went far too long on bad body mount bushings. I ordered the energy suspension bushings kit. Had no problem unscrewing position one and two on the drivers side… and then the third one.. hooo boy. It snapped off and now I’m wondering what are the next steps to remove this bolt. I’ve seen something saying it is welded on (52217B)?

I’d greatly appreciate any pointers on next steps. I am tempted to just cut off remaining threads to see if it turns. But I don’t want to dig myself a deeper hole if that’s a bad idea. From the top view you can see I got it off the tabs just a bit, using a hammer drill. Shouldn’t it just pound out? Don’t want to stress the frame any worse than it is already.

 

Thread revival. Questions for users who replaced their bushings with Energy (or anyone who wants to share their experience).

Why did you replace them? What are the most notable signs old bushings are done and need replacement?
Is there a noticeable ride quality/NVH difference between and old bushing and new polyurethane?
Isn't a polyurethane bushing harder/stiffer which might transfer more vibrations and noise from the road?

Thanks in advance.

 

Bought a full kit for my reg cab since I was replacing uca and lca bushings during a full front suspension refresh project. Noticed droop between cab and bed. Body lines showed around 3/4” droop. New mounts has it back stock even. Ride is a little stiffer but prob more due to uca and lca bushings. Old body mounts were visibly worn out. Much more responsive and what I was looking for. Good luck with yours.

 

Here are a few symptoms of failing body mount bushings. See posts 592 thru 598.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/29816266/

**Edit** I didn’t notice any difference in ride quality with ES body mount bushings. Granted I am comparing to the original bushings on a 25 year old truck.

 

This thread is a huge help. I am in the process of having to replace my passenger rear bushing mount due to rust (I also boxed in the entire rear part of the frame) and decided to go with an ES bushing replacement on all the mounts.

 

The mount is all gone. lol.

 

A couple of questions for OP. For the Position 1 bolt, where did you insert the prybar and were you using the prybar to lift the body or were prying on the bushing? The long bolt in this bushing does not just want to pop out the top. The nut is off and I can spin the bolt with a ratchet, but I am wondering if the weight of the ARB bumper is pinching it a bit. The long bolts for Position 2 and 3 came out ok.

Also, is there a particular spot in the pinch weld you lifted the body with the jack? I still have some grinding to do to get rid of the last remnants of the original Position 3 bushing mount, before I can weld the new one in, and the body has to be raised a bit to get grinder in there.

 

Hmm, I've run out of things to fix on my truck, and this looks interesting.
For people who have replaced the body bushings, did you need to disconnect any cab to frame connections?
I wonder about the shifter linkage on an automatic, wires or brake lines getting stretched.

 

It'll be fine you're lifting less then an 1" so it's not a ton. Everything should be designed to move some for vibrations and dampening. Just don't try to force it.

 

I got Position 1 done on passenger side. I couldn’t originally get the long bolt out because it was rusted to the original metal sleeve, but that’s been resolved. For Position 2, how high above frame did you lift the body? I used a screw jack on the pinch weld near the perch, and lifted it high enough to get piece of 2x4 to rest body on, but I still don’t have enough room to get to the bushing plate bolts. In your one picture showing the jack and sliders, it looks like you got a 2x4 between the slider and the body, that’s significantly higher than I got. I realize that was for Position 3 and wasnt sure if there was just more room available on Position 3.

 

Some photos. The thinner piece of wood in the front isn’t really doing anything.

Very little clearance between head of bushing plate bolt and body. Especially considering I probably need to use a small breaker bar due to Northeast rust. Do you think I can raise the body further?