What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Parts washer put some work in today

 

So tempting! How much does that set up run and do you retain the slide features?

 

800-1000 depending if you catch a sale with bracket

 

In the built motor yes, this one, no. This ones just to see how the stock ecu runs with the cams.

Due to emissions I’m going to be stuck with the original computer.. but I’m planning on a FiC6 for some things.. there’s trickery to get more rpm from the stock ecu too

 

AAL isn't all that bad. Replacing the whole leaf pack is probably, actually, less work. But for the price, and what it sounds like you're trying to do, an AAL would probably be worth it

Tie rods = Run what you can afford. The OEM outer tie rod ends are reasonably priced, so I'd suggest going OEM. (However I've run non OEM for a couple years on my truck before with no problems. The Toyota gods didn't strike my truck and set it on fire, like some will tell you on this forum).

The OEM inner tie rods are a different story. They are stupid expensive, and to do those (with OEM) you're almost better off buying a whole new steering rack. I don't run OEM inner tie rods. My inners were beat, but my rack was still fine, so I think I'm running Moog or TRW inners.

 

CAMMEDry

 

Thats good to know. OEM LBJ's are a must though as far as I've heard.

 

Yep... You'll definately read that on this forum.

 

My clear coat on the roof and hood is shot also. I really like that gloss red.
What did you do on the left side with the gloss, is that Raptor Line, and did you brush on or spray?

I'm tempted to just spray paint the roof and hood safety red, but then it wouldn't match, might do it anyway.

 

I may be getting ready to pick your brain on some shit... lol

I'm getting ready to do BMW seats in my kid's 3rd Gen 4Runner, like, right NOW.

 

Careful with aftermarket ITRs. Some run out of articulation at full droop. If you don't wheel it's not a problem.

 

When you lift your truck, you increase the potential downtravel outside the design specifications of the ITREs (and most everything else)... so, the same can be said of the OEM ITREs.

If you don't inspect and maintain your equipment... you're going tohave problems.

If you don't understand, going in, that a lot of the items that last 100K plus miles, on a stock truck, just became consumables... you're going to have problems.




The aftermarket ITREs seem to be doing just fine at the mall parkiing lot though. Some of the curbs are over 10 inches yo.

 

I'll try to help in any way possible. Don't hesitate to ask. Sadly, I didn't document much about the wiring. A lot of it was just trial and error. If at all possible, I would recommend (assuming the T4R has the same basic floor) to cut out that area at the front of the seat. It is just a hollow area, no wiring or anything else. It would give you an additional inch or more to drop the front of the seat down. That is where they are too high, throwing it all too high.

 

Hey homie. I have caught some serious air over them bumps

 

Ok. Ok. Sorry. They are all on my phone and uploading to TW from the phone is painfully tedious.

Planning:



roughing out parts:


Welded up and painted (i really hate that paint, it said TRACTOR on it so it should have been good but it was terrible. It is as if the tractor rustolium is marketing to is a tractor on a nerf farm where all the rocks and barbed wire have a Mohs hardness below "fingernail"):



As you can see it is built with lots of receiver hitches. I do this on the arms so I have have a set of arms for only the bike and the gate comes straight down over them, or I bolt on the set of arms with even more receiver hitches mounted vertical to take the jerry cans and the spare tire.

Front bumper plates:


Chassis Savered the anterior most 3 feet of the box frame as I will never get access to that part again.
before


after



plates with 1/2? nuts welded to interior and OEM skid plate, not a fan of that but i plan to make a beefy radiator guard after i finish my boat projects:




using the rear dual receiver hitches as a jig to weld the front 2:


done with front:



It is not how I wanted to do it. Not being allowed to leave the house for COVID closures made me use what I had not what was ideal. But it got done.

 

1 down

 

I'm in the middle of replacing my valve cover gaskets, and the coolant bypass pipe. I have two questions I need some help on.

1) On the passenger side VC, I thought it was leaking around the half moons. As I dug into it, I realized it wasn't leaking from there. It looks like it's leaking from around the cam, but its hard to tell. I tried to get a picture, but it was rather difficult. It's more apparent on the bottom side. I may try to get a better picture tomorrow. I can't tell if its leaking from the VC in that area, or if its the cam seal. I did have a head job done on this side due to a burnt valve, I guess it could be the cam seal? How hard would it be to replace that seal since I'm in this far? obviously I'd have to take the timing belt off. Any opinions?

2) The last picture, the gaskets under the tape, the manifold gaskets?, do I need to used a thin layer of FIPG between the gasket and block? It looks like there is some there now, but its orange, I bought the black FIPG. I looked in the FSM but I didn't see it specified.

 

I have 2 95.5s. One has a good frame, and the other, well, see below.

Started on my rehab today. Promised myself all Winter I would get it done before really hot weather.

Pulled shell and bed and assessed damage. I knew I had a lot of rust and a significant crack at the rear of the LH leaf mount. But, numerous other locations turned out to be cooked as well. No donor frame, so I'll be making repair sections.

Bed Bolts: front 2 broke loose with 3/4 drive air impact, middle 2 broke the weld nuts loose and twisted loose, and the rear 2 needed 60 amps of plasma coaxing.

LH rear


Say hello to my little friend


Uh huh



This was my main concern over the Winter. Just forward of the LH rear spring mount.


A few more glamour shots






Spare tire cross brace is much worse than it looks


this bracket is completely loose from the frame



160,000 miles of midwestern Winters.

Even though I have already repaired the bed a few years ago, I may put a flatbed on it.