Accumulator Delete Kit - SOLD OUT - No More Kits

I got my manual so neither my daughter nor my wife can or will drive it. This way, my seat never gets moved.

 

Preach it

 

The accumulator slows the engagement of the clutch. So, it does three things:
-- Increases wear due to the delay.
-- Reduces feel for a clutch that doesn't have much feel to start with
-- Messes up modulation on engagement. Say that you misjudge the rev match. If you slow or pause the engagement to adjust, the accumulator dampens this and makes the shift wonky.

With the ADM, you get direct response of the clutch, which is what most folks who have an MT want.

 

Yes, the heat shield was put back on after the photo shoot. No issue.

 

Thank you for this explanation. I'm planning to spend a few more days driving it to pay particular attention to how it feels when revs are mismatched. I'm not sure I'll know much about the "feel" part until I experience things after the install.

I got quoted $128 for my shop to do this for me so I'm going to try to hunt down some videos of how to bleed the clutch, I've never done that before.

Reading the instructions, step 3 says remove O2 sensor from the CC but I see no instructions to add it back. Is that implied or is it a part which is permanently removed?

 

Did you use the 2-page instructions in post #1, or did you use any other instructions? I’m having a hard time finding detailed instructions on the bleeding process, so I’m holding off on the install until I can get a bit more confident first.

 

The change in feel is slight, but more is always better there.

I did not remove the O2 sensor when I was messing with it. Just the exhaust support for the cat. It gives a lot more room to work and get at the top heat shield bolt. Yes. The O2 senor must be reinstalled.

There are a few ways to bleed:
-- Gravity - after installing, open the slave bleeder port and let it drip for a while while monitoring the level in reservoir.
-- Helper - typical clutch and brake bleeding and how I did it. With the clutch, the pedal will have to be manually pulled up off of the floor. If done properly, pressure will build immediately.
-- Vacuum - folks have bled this way, but in the past I failed miserably on another hydraulic automotive clutch and my motorcycle clutch. It just easier to not mess with a vacuum pump for clutches.

 

I used the 2 page instructions in post #1. I didn't find a need to remove the splashguard (#1) -- maybe it's for visualization?, or remove the O2 sensor (#3) -- it didn't get in my way. The most difficult part of this install is getting wrenches on the various bolts. It's all do-able but takes some trial and error to get into position. A universal joint wrench adapter was used for a couple bolts. As for the clutch fluid, I didn't really lose any, so no additional fluid had to be added. I did catch what was lost in bleeding and put it back into the reservoir (mid-bleed and at the end).

As for bleeding, have a piece of clear tubing to attach to the bleed port. Once you start bleeding (pumping the clutch), opening and closing the bleed bolt, you can do this for as long as needed, i.e. you can learn as you go. To avoid starting over, be sure you refill the fluid reservoir before it empties. You will know when the bubbles stop. Intimidating, but not difficult.

 

You do not want to reuse fluid. The stuff in the slaves and calipers is typically the most spent as it lives in the hottest areas of operation.

 

Those instructions are my fault and based on my process when I did mine. Yes, the O2 sensor goes back in otherwise you'll throw codes.

To bleed the clutch after install, I did the following:

1. clear tube from bleed valve to empty water bottle (I drilled a hole in the lid and fed the tube into the hole)
2. remove clamp from rubber line between firewall and reservoir
3. top off reservoir if not already full
4. pump clutch pedal 5 times
5. open bleed valve (10mm flare wrench 1/4 - 1/2 turn)
6. push clutch pedal to floor
7. close bleed valve
8. pull pedal back up (by hand)
9. top off reservoir (important)
10. repeat steps 4-9 until no more air is coming out of the bleed tube.

 

I was having some difficulty getting mine to sit flush. There is quite a bit of interference between the new line and shield. Wondering if it will rattle too much. How necessary is the shield?

 

Not necessary at all, just cosmetics really. You can bend the line to sit closer to the transmission if you need to. It wont hurt it at all.

 

New and revised instructions attached which includes bleeding instructions.

Do you guys have any idea how difficult it was to do this on an iPad at 43,000 feet somewhere over Nebraska while entering an ATC reroute into the FMS by myself because my co-pilot has been in the shitter since Alabama?

 

What kind of transmission fluid are you guys using to top back off? Anything special?

 

You're getting hours in...stop complaining...

And your wife and daughter are out banging around in your AT 4runner lol

 

Any DOT 3 or 4 will work just fine.

 

Awesome thanks man

 

Envious.

Dood, your co-pilot is spanking it.

 

Dot 3 or 4 BRAKE fluid. Not tranny fluid.

 

OP this is great - thank you very much my friend. Exactly what I was looking for. I’ll do some digging on other questions I have and return here if I’m still feeling shaky on anything - you’ve been very patient and responsive, so thanks again!!