Is paint coating worth it?

Cquartz Lite actually comes with a couple microfiber applicators that slide over your four fingers that have a plastic lining in them. I use the Autofiber "coating saver" microfiber applicators as they also have a plastic lining under the microfiber to prevent the sponge inside from sucking up all the product. They work really well actually, better than the suede applicators and block. Great because you can manipulate them into whatever shape to get into anywhere. With high spots after you've applied move it out into more light, cloudy day lighting is best for coatings or a light that has a diffuser on the front like a kitchen light would have. If you catch them within the first hour or so of applying you can simply apply more product, spread it over the spot and immediately wipe it away. Technically you can do this with the more robust coatings too though you likely have less time

That is exactly the product I was thinking of, it's pretty much the same as whatever the detailing brands sell. Your Panel Wipe spray is likely still fine though.

As for your DA question in the other thread, yeah the G9 just has more power than the Porter Cable. Just like with the previous Griots machine, it was more powerful than the PC and the G9 is slightly more powerful than that. Sure the more powerful machine can correct paint faster as would a machine with a larger throw but that's likely something a pro would need where all those extra hours count.

 

Which Autofiber "coating saver" applicator do you use, the thick or thinner ones?

I have the 10 pk of Car Pro microfiber suede cloth applicator, out of curiosity I use them mostly for wiping sunglasses now.

What do you think about this light for paint inspection?

Do you spray a lot or a little?

Do you let it sit for a few minutes to dwell before wiping off? I don't know by letting it sit will break down the wax and grease better.

My PC is having issues with keeping pad rotating. I have to use moderate pressure but it leaving backing plate indentation in the pads. I'm hoping to use less pressure with a more powerful DA and saving the pads from getting out of shape.

I was looking at my pads the other day. One pad was caved in, the other was push outward the shape of the backing plate.

For heavy correction I have the Dewalt DWP849X. I haven't had the need to use it in the last couple of years.

 

I bought the thinner ones that are about the size of a coating block for those 4" suede cloths. Next time I would get a larger size for a product like Cquartz Lite. Those suede cloths will work just fine too, or the ones Carpro includes with Lite.

I'm sure it is fine for polishing, I just use my Fenix flash light. For coatings the paint correction lights are too bright or focused, you need diffused light like cloudy day instead of sunny. I always used outdoor lighting with coating removal. I'm just an enthusiast so dedicated lights for this weren't a priority.

Spray little, I don't let it dwell very long. The polishes I've used never seemed to leave that much behind. Don't use this kind of product with the intention of removing a sealant or wax. Not saying it won't work, I just don't think they'll work that well on these modern paint protection products unless they're nearly dead already. Besides if polishing is involved any sealant is gone from that process.

Something is not sounding right there, if pads stay warped or misshaped after being off the backing plate it seems like they're bad. Are you using the same size backing plate as the pads are?

Also seems counter intuitive on the pressure, you apply more to get it to spin, not less? What kind of polish are you using with them?

 

Are these the size? https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/...-Applicator-12-pk-Blue-Grey-Mini-393p7793.htm

Since I have no garage, everything is done outside.

I have a Fenix headlight but since it's powered by 2 AA batteries the runtime are short. The headlight beam pattern are floody. I also have a Harbor Freight zoomie light similar to the Flex swirl light. Working outside the lighting is not that bad sometimes.

I notice that Menzerna polishes are quite oily. Meguiars are more water based so not to bad. I read a panel wipe, IPA based panel wipe, has a hard time removing some Menzerna polishes due to the high oil content.

Freshly applied sealant, and synthetic waxes won't remove to easily with a panel wipe. Has to be polished off then panel wipe the polishing oils. Carnauba wax are easier to remove.

 

The backing plate is Lake Country 3" (2 7/8") the pads are 4" CCS pads. With a straight edge on the pad there a 1/2" cave in.

The 5" Lake Country (4 3/4") backing with 5" Buff and Shine pads leaves a slight outwards indentation of the backing plate.

I guessing the pads are over heating, over worked, or the downwards pressure. The pads were new.

The polishes I used the most are Meguiars M105, M205 and Menzerna, 3M 39002. The others 3M polishes, compounds are mostly used with the rotary.

Don't mind I goofed up with the posting.

 

Get it ceramic coated if you want to prevent scratches. It’s like a protective invisible layer over clear coat. It will help prevent swirls because it’s very strong. But you gotta research it and do paint correction before you do. Engineering explained has a great YouTube video on it to see what it is. But to prevent swirls besides that, When you wash it, start with a touchless wash if you can to knock off all the loose dirt that will cause scratches. Then use a 2 bucket wash with a grit guard, and DO NOT wash in circles. Straight lines front to back. That way you can’t see any scratches you might introduce to the clear coat as easily because the sun only hits them from one angle. A circular wash and you can always see it no matter where the sun is because light will hit the scratch somewhere and u see it. Wash the roof first and work your way down because all the dirt that gets stuck in your washing hand will be close to the bottom of the truck where the road is, resulting in fewer scratches caused by you when washing. Use the microfiber mitts with all of the little fingers on it. Or microfiber towel if you don’t have that. Dry with a chemical guys waffle microfiber towel.

 

Yeah it seems like they must really be getting abused, you sure you need a more powerful machine? I guess that is just another case for changing pads often, that is one of the tips I saw the pros making over and over was multiple pads. Heat buildup was on of those reasons and in the end having multiple pads will make all the pads last longer.

I've heard that about Menzerna I've been very happy with the Griots creams and 3D stuff.

 

Unfortunately this isn't true even with professional coatings. Paint protect film is the closest thing we have to what you're talking about. It would take the scratches and lite rock chip damage while protecting the paint.

 

I used about 4 pads for compounding, 4 pads for polishing.

I marked the backing plate to watched pad rotation. With my PC it does need a decent amount of pressure to keep the pad rotating. I read this was a issue with the 1st gen PC, being under powered.

With some pros they like to promote using more than necessary to increase sales.

I never tried any Griots polishes, but the Fine Hand Polish.

How are they? Does the polishes have long working time?

Which orbital DA do you have/use?

 

I think it over over exaggerated with the 9H hardness companies are claiming about their coating.

 

But even the ones not selling gear are saying it. The pads don't get loaded with paint and spent product. Go too many round with the pad like that and you're no longer working with what you found to work in your test section.

I have not used them as much as the 3D products but they seem to work just as well. They have 3 in the lineup and a lot of people say their most aggressive one (Fast Correcting Cream) finishes nearly good enough to one step some paints.

I've got a Griots G15 and the GG6 or whatever the model number was just before the G9. I keep a 3" backing plate on it and the G15 has the 5". Griots Boss pads are nice too, they are very thin which means they keep rotataing even with a less powerful machine. They compare in thickness to Lake Country's thin pro, but the Griot's have center holes punched in them, the LC do not. Which is something there that would help with the overheating pads.

 

There're some that over do push pads for sales.

How many pads do you use for compounding, polishing for a whole vehicle?

The only 3D/HD product I use is 3D/HD Speed. For correction it's alright. It does leave a nice shine but lacking durability.

What's opinion on the G15? Does stall easy on curve panels?

I'm going to need a new backing plate. Mine is starting to crack. How do you like the Griots backing plate, any pros/cons?

Do you use microfiber pads? If so, what are your opinion on them?

 

I usually just change it after about 2 panels. Plus if anything hits the ground or maybe picks up dirt somewhere I've got plenty on hand. I just chuck the spent pads or ones that fell or something into a bucket of pad cleaner. You can even leave them in there to clean for the next day.

I'm happy with the G15, runs smooth doesn't vibrate much or scream and you can run it one handed at times which helps for the roof and other places. I have not run into much stalling but I try to be cautious on the kind off edges that it would tend to stall on or adjust pressure. This is where as a pro running into all kinds of different panels and situations a forced machine would be a worthy tool in the arsenal. Plus the fact that they need to save time more than you or I would working on our own truck in the driveway.

I always try to do a one step polish so I'm looking to improve and enhance rather than worry about chasing defects. The Griots plate that comes with the G15 is fine, it's got vent holes in it and seems to keep the pads cool. But no matter which one you go with it's a consumable item like the pads are.

 

I change out pads after a couple of panels as well. I don’t think it has anything to do with selling products. Seems like less risk to pick up something and damage paint.

 

At that time I only had 4 of each pad, compounding, polishing. Now I invested in more foam pads, microfiber pads, wool pads.

What brand and kind (waffle, microfiber etc) of pads are your favorite?

Is there anything the G15 can't do?

Do you detail for income? A lot of pros like to do one step to speed thing up.

I like to remove 70% to 80% of the defect. After all these are daily drivers that going to get more defect sooner than later.

The G6, are you using the Griots backing plate?

 

Some people on detailing forums are pushing a dozen of each type of pad, compounding, polishing pads. To me it's more about sales.

Now I use about 4 of each type of pad for the whole vehicle.

 

they detailing multiple vehicles a day. So instead of cleaning pads they are grabbing a fresh one.

I have used less pads before, in my opinion I prefer to use more pads. Reduces chance of something getting embedded in pad. Also, makes it easier to clean pad because they don’t have as much product in them.

 

Can't say I have a favorite, since my first polisher was the G6 I found most of the recommendations on Autogeek were the Lake Country "thin pro" pads. These pads are very thin and the idea is that a thinner pad keeps the pad rotating which means working. Aside from that I kept hearing good things on the BOSS pads so I've mostly got those. On the BOSS line their white foam pad is more aggressive than the orange. So I've mostly got their orange and yellow pads which is their color for light polishing.

Don't have enough experience to know that, I think is where you've got to bite the bullet as a pro and get various polisher to fill in all the gaps. I'm not trying to get into weird places and polish square inch of paint either. Though as a goof, I did pickup a small rotary because you can use it with down to 1" pads. I mainly got the rotary for windshields.

No, I'm just fascinated with the topic and there is nearly an endless supply of info out there on it. Polishing with a DA is pretty idiot proof, I think the real discipline is keeping each section as consistent as the first. I generally stay away from detailing for income as I charge on my day job what I think is on the top end or higher for a very experienced detailer. Since polishing is likely an all day affair and not exactly casual work I'd want to be charging even more than my "day job". Usually I offer to help a friend out with their car so that they are doing a lot of the work. That way you can also teach them how to take care of it going forward. The one step is more or less I only have medium to fine polishing pads, not much on the cutting side. Plus when it comes to multiple pads, compounding steps would likely need to change the pad more often than with polishing. I've got a handful of more aggressive pads for chasing defects if needed or for a test section on a harder paint.

No, I had picked up a Lake Country plate for when I first got it since I was needing to get a 5" as well. Always heard to ditch the 6" pads on the GG6 as it just wasn't strong enough to run the 6" anywhere near as consistent as the 5".

 

The person ask how many pads for 1 vehicle. He got a response of a dozen for each steps.

Someone I used to talk to work at Lake Country recommend 4 for each step. I took his advice. He also mentioned if I was working on something big, like a van then I would need more.

Do you use a pad conditioning brush?

 

I do use a brush. Again, I had the pads (purchased on clearance) so I used a pad per couple panels. If working a hood, then I would use 1 pad per hood. There is no right or wrong way as far as number of pads, so do what you are comfortable with.