Tiffany the Taco

Installed some @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc old school 3 leaf AALs today. I messaged Wheelers about any deals on their 3 leaf HD AALs and was told that they had an old stock of slightly thinner 3 leafs. This sounded ideal to me since I didn’t want to stiffen the ride, just increase the height and payload slightly.

I gained about 1.25” in the back with these. Keep in mind I was adding these to my wheelers 5 leaf packs, so now I have the equivalent of an 7 leaf pack after removing the overload.

The back of my truck is now 1” higher than the front. I can always crank the coilovers up a little, but we’ll see if they settle at all.

I wasn’t able to put the spring retainer bolts on since the holes are too low and hit the main leaf. I’m thinking it doesnt really matter since they can’t drop enough to lose alignment.

 

Found a center console from a 00 4Runner. 99-02 4runner consoles are the largest FYI.

My plan is to build it into a subwoofer box like my other custom built console. My old one is just too wide for the new 4Runner seats. I will most likely have to go to a shallow mount sub and fiberglass the inside.

I will also now have 8 cup holders!

 

Installed a LED strip inside my topper today. I honestly didn't realize how bright it would be, it's almost too bright.
I did install a dimmer with it, but even at its lowest, its still pretty bright.

Last week I ran a new 9 conductor cable from the front of the truck to the back and replaced all of the poor wiring runs that I had done in the past. Right now I have 4 legs as spares, so we'll see if I need them all in the future.

This is the strip I got: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-fixture-low-profile-surface-mount/1683/9700/
Dimmer: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...2a-12-volt-dc-single-color-led-dimmer/61/364/
Extension: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-extx-series-power-cable-extensions/935/2291/
Plug: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ors/cps-pt-pigtail-cps-adapter-cable/759/376/

I actually had to revers the plugs on the dimmer switch since it only works one way, but that was pretty easy with a soldering iron.

 

Replaced this seal where a distributor would be mounted on a 95-97? 3RZ. I’m pretty sure this has been leaking the entire time I’ve owned the truck (10 years). The seal is hidden behind the mounting brackets for the ignition coils, so you wouldn’t know it’s there unless you unbolted it. This only applies to 98-00 3RZs since coil on plug started in 01.

I drilled a hole in the center and it pulled right out with a pick that I had. I was prepared to tap the hole and try to pull it out that way, but it just came out so easy. I put some FIPG in the hole prior to tapping the new plug in, which was a much tighter fit than the original. I did it this way because I didn’t want to pull the valve cover since it wasn’t leaking and I didn’t want it to start!

 

I also added Bar's Rear Main Seal Leak Stop to my oil today. 186K miles and I'm due for an oil change around 190K, so time will tell if it works.
Once I change my oil I'm going to switch to a synthetic high mileage or synthetic blend.

 

I really enjoy your build! How much were the wheelers old stock AAL? I'm in the market for some.

 

I believe they were $70, but I’m not sure they have any more. Send em a pm on here or give them a call, you never know.

 

Started a build thread for Boom Console 2.0 https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/project-boom-console-v2-0.645998/

I started this project after acquiring some 4runner leather seats and realized that my old subwoofer console was too wide to work with them. See pictures of that at the end of this post.

I had the idea to start with a 4runner center console and build a sub box inside of it. My goal here is to make a factory looking console that will function as sub box. After doing research on the different center consoles (both in the 1st gen tacoma and 3rd gen 4runner), I decided to go with a 99-02 4runner console since it was the largest. I actually found one in a 00 at an Austin junkyard for $20 that just happened to not have rear AC. This was perfect because it would be another hole I didn't have to cover. It also has an ash tray and fold out cup holder. I really wanted to keep the cup holder, but it would take up too much space inside the box. I decided to leave the ash tray and use it for some outlets in the future.
Here it is mounted in my truck after removing the interior, ebrake rubber, cubby hole parts, etc. I will have to figure out a bracket for the rear since my truck doesn't have any treaded holes for it. I'll most likely use the rear seat mounting holes.


I knew that I would need to also get a relatively shallow mount 8" woofer. My old console was 9" wide to fit a rather powerful 10" woofer. I wanted something of the same power range to use the same amp. I came across the Sundown Audio SD-3 8" which ticked all the boxes. I would be able to inset this woofer into the console so that it would be flush and install a flush grill over top. This is possible with this sub because it has an underhung (flipped) surround. It also does not have a rear vent, so I can get it as close as possible to the opposite wall of the console.


I got a MDF mounting ring online and cut a hole on the passenger side (there's more room because of the Ebrake).


Then glued the mdf ring using JBweld. This is mostly just to hold it in place so I can start fiberglassing. I also taped the exterior of the box to keep any resin off of it.


Used carboard to block out holes from the inside. After I took this picture I decided to just glue the top directly to the box. The top with the armrest actually has a little compartment, so it can still open, just not to the original larger storage area.


The I started fiberglassing using 1.5oz mat and polyester resin. My goal is to get 4-5 layers. I left the bottom open to make it easier in the beginning. In hindsight, I should have filled in the areas above the ring since it's impossible to see.



Then I taped a piece of cardboard on from the inside and set it about 1/4" in. I added fiberglass to this to start building it up. I was able to pull most of the cardboard out after the fiberglass had cured. The rear is inset more because that part straddles the transmission tunnel. I will also install a terminal cup there, so I wanted it to be a little off the floor.


Did a test fit


Here’s a picture that shows the clearance by the sub


Painted the mounting ring and exposed fiberglass black. I mostly did this because I am using resin without wax, so it will remain tacky unless it is top coated.



I decided to install the speaker terminal on the front because it would interfere with the mounting bracket on the bottom. I put it where the stock cubby would be since there really isn’t enough depth to put switches there in the future. I will make a cover for this spot, but that will make it easy to access if I need to disconnect the wires without unmounting the box.


I also didn’t realize I built up the front wall so thick. It’s just about 3/8”. It’s not a bad thing, just makes it heavier overall.


I finished up the rear mounting bracket last night. I had originally planned to attach it to the rear seat bolts, but since the transmission tunnel does not have vertical walls, I'd never be able to get it unmounted without removing the seats.
I went through a couple of different ideas, but I ended up drilling out the square holes on the top of the seat brackets (used for the plastic covers) and installing 6mm nutserts. I can now bolt the mounting bracket directly to this without having to unbolt the seats.
Here’s a picture of how the bracket attaches at the back


Here's a shot of the bracket on the bottom of the box. I just used some #12 short screws and put some JB weld in the holes before putting it together. I don't plan to ever take this off. The bracket is 1/8"x2" aluminum.
I though about fiberglassing this bracket into the box, but then I would need to mold everything to the transmission tunnel. I really didn't want my truck smelling like fiberglass for weeks, so this was my alternative.


I mounted it and fired it up tonight. I turned the gain up on my amp thinking I would need to since that I’m running at 4ohms, but I actually started getting some distortion. First impression is that it is just as loud as my old 10” in a bigger box.



So I had to pull the console back out earlier this week because the smell of fiberglass was just too strong in an enclosed area. I let it sit for a week before installing it, but it was still off-gassing.

This gave me a chance to work on the grille. I couldn’t find an off the shelf solution since this sub is 8.75” to the outside and my mounting hole was 9”. I wanted my grille to be flush with the side of the console, and no one sells anything like that due to the high excursion of most subwoofers. The SD-3 doesn’t project much above the mounting ring because of its underhung surround.

I found a trim ring for a 9” light on suberbright leds that was the EXACT size I needed, and it was only $5!
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...agnetic-trim-for-9-led-downlights/5291/11932/

I looked for the longest time to find some cheap perforated steel to make my own grille, but it was just too expensive for the small amount that I needed. I ended up buying a 10” subwoofer grille from Amazon warehouse and cutting it up.


I then glued this using jb kwik into the light trim ring.



I also put some 1/2”x1/16” foam gasket tape on the inside to prevent any metal on metal contact. I put this on the inside of the mounting ring on the box to give it a pretty snug fit (hope I can actually remove it later!)



Here it is all done!



Installed shot with the grille on.

 

Installed a Volant Intake Tube from this kit: https://amzn.to/3xEJRWR
But I just purchased the parts directly from Volant since I didn't want the whole box.
I was able to use a heat gun and bend it to better fit the stock tube's location.

 

Did a test fit of my SUP and Thule SUP Taxi on the prinsu rack.

I got both used ($60 for the SUP, $40 for the taxi). I had to adjust the springs that tension the straps, but after that they held fine. I want to make some brackets to center the taxi on the prinsu bars. I removed the stock mounts since they are designed for aerobars and just used 1/4” carriage bolts to bolt it directly to the prinsu. My only issue with this is that I need a way to remove it a little quicker when I’m not using it.

 

Designed and printed a switch panel for the ebrake slot on my 4runner console. I still need to paint it though. I hate leaving printed parts bare.

 

Installed a Bednet mini as an attic net in my topper.

 

I finally completed my center console by adding AC power outlets and an inverter. I also took this opportunity to relocate my kenwood amp from the back wall to under the seat. This would allow me to reroute my power cable down the transmission tunnel instead of the driver side door sill. I have so many wires in the driver side that I couldn't really get the sill cover back in place. This of course turned into a much longer project since I forced myself to clean up all the wiring so I "hopefully" won't have any issues in the future.

Parts
Wagan 3802 700W Pure Sing Wave Inverter: https://amzn.to/3kcEKKz
KnuKonceptz distribution block: https://amzn.to/3kaKowE
OEM Toyota Matrix, Avalon, Pontiac Vibe 115V Switch: These are all over eBay for super cheap
(2) 4Runner 400W AC Power Outlets 8553035050C0: https://parts.springhilltoyota.com/p/63608210/8553035050C0.html
(2) Connectors for power outlets 9098010797: https://parts.springhilltoyota.com/p/69379244/9098010797.html

I designed and 3D printed a mounting plate for the AC outlets and 115V switch so that it would fit in the 4Runner ebrake spot.

I was originally going to go with the 400W inverter, but after the 1st one I got from Amazon Warehouse was a dud, I decided to go with the 700W model. I did this mostly because it has a remote wire port.
I figured out which wires did what, and wired that into the OEM 115V Matrix switch. I tapped backlighting power from the shifter light as well.

I also learned that my sub amp won't fit under the driver seat due to the wiring connectors under the carpet, so that ended up on the passenger side. Then I put the inverter on the driver side.

 

Does that panel clip right in and Would you be able to make a blank panel for that ebrake slot? if so, how much haha

 

it does just snap in, but it still needs some tweaking to get some support in the center. That one you quoted has 3 oem switch slots, you couldpout switch blanks to block them out. Here it is on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4271018/comments

I could probably print you one once I get it finalized.

 

Loaded up for the river

 

Made some brackets to bolt a Thule Hullavator onto the Prinsu. I basically needed to add 5/8" so it could wrap around the bar.
I read a lot about the hullavators and that it needs to hang way off the side of the vehicle. This isn't really the case with a truck topper since the sides are relatively straight. It still clears my bedside by a few inches.

 

Test fit the kayak

 

Where did you write your lights to, i just got these and I'm trying to have them as blinkers and the puddle light to the courtesy light. Just wondering if it all wired up right by the fuse?

 

I wired the puddle light to the stock courtesy light that's in the doors of 95-00 tacomas. I wired the turn signal into the turn circuit under the door sill cover on the driver side. I had to run a wire from the passenger side over.