Solar panel install

I did. The plastic is so slick that it just comes off. Might have to give them a good sanding on the next go-around.

 

Here's a couple pics of the wire run I put under the back door on my access cab. The one with the ring terminal is a ground plane strap for the antenna and the longer run is coax. These aren't easily serviceable since I used pull-through rivets to attach the p-clips to the body, but if you can install riv-nuts, somethng similar can be done in a removable way, or if you can find some small velcro cable ties, those could be riveted in place and strapped around the wires.

 

Great idea ...

 

Very cool. Great build.

 

A wiring raceway would be nice to tuck the wires into a self contained loom... I wonder if I can find anything or if there's enough room to even run a raceway.

 

It might take a low-profile raceway, you'll want to look into how the door edge moves relative to the body work. If you don't mind pulling the interior or the headliner in the back, you could also just punch it through the body inside there with a good thick grommet (maybe even something like a tarp grommet sealed up with a silicone cover patch or a big glob of caulking).

Luckily I didn't have to deal with that since I only ran a single RG86 line for the full height, putting it in a loom would be wasting a lot of effort.

 

Damn dude, I dig it

 

Well everyone, after nearly two years, i've decided to add a second battery. The solar, while a great setup, is not a long term solution. Overall, I don't believe a single battery is the right choice for me. On "slow" months, i'll use the truck for a few days. I often forget to turn the fridge onto house power, unnecessarily drawing the battery down to fridge cutoff. I have learned a lot about the Tacoma's charging system and the requirements of an AGM battery. Dual battery seems like the right way to go.

In short, here is what I have learned:
AGM batteries NEED to be recharged in a specific voltage range. The Taco's alternator setup is not even capable of properly charging most aftermarket batteries (example: i saw about 13.0v on stock alternator setup, Optima's Yellow top recommended voltage range is between 14.0-14.8v). I added the voltage booster harness from Singer Alternators to help this. The solar would run anywhere from 12.6-14.4v, depending on the sun. So most days, the solar was not meeting the minimum spec. Low voltage charging will shorten battery life and i have seen adverse affects on my now, 3rd Optima yellow top (leaving a ton of stuff on while parked in the the garage for a week pushed me into the 3rd battery). Regardless, I have seen reduced battery capacity (battery will dip into 11v range on hot nights), full discharges from minimal draw (<1 amp) and sporadic charging (will only hold up to 12.0v after driving).

After pondering the scenario numerous times, I decided i "wanted" to get a second battery. I researched a decent amount on lithium and had my sights set on a 100AH lithium battery. Black Friday deals grab me by the balls and i scoop up a Renogy 100AH lithium with 15% off. I also got a lithium specific solar charge controller with bluetooth adapter and a lithium compatible battery tender. I just gave my bed drawer to a friend, so i'll be building a new one with a compartment for the battery. Then I'll tackle some wiring to get the solar panel and fridge onto the new lithium setup. Oh, and i have two extra 100watt solar panels if i need to boost the output and/or retire the original Suaoki panel.

Pics and stuff to come.

 

Well, I guess I can update this. I sit here 6 months later with no real changes. I am in the same spot as I was from my last post. I did build a new drawer, but never added the lithium setup to it. I make sure that the fridge gets house power when in the garage and i haven't had any issues since.

But.....

The lithium setup is chilling in the garage, next to my NEW 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2, so the Taco is outside. Renogy released a DC-DC charger about a month ago which I picked up to add to the setup. After I recoup some funds, i'll be building out the new truck. I'm actually undecided on whether or not i'll add solar. I ran the fridge for over a week directly hooked to the lithium battery, so solar is not a necessity. I never stay put for more than two days and 100AH on lithium is A LOT for just a fridge and gadget charging. With the 20A DC-DC charger, I can now properly charge the lithium from the car's alternator, regardless of it's output. NO MORE WORRYING ABOUT CHARGING VOLTAGE!! The charger converts the input to whatever preset output voltage you choose. 12v input will output the proper 14.6v and cutoff at the chosen preset battery voltage. I'll probably wire the truck for solar just in case.

The new setup will be on a Chevy, but i'll post some stuff here as it can be worth something for someone.

 

Yes AGM batteries require up to 14.7V on a several stage charger to fully charge. I’ll put mine on one every few weeks. I’m not running any solar or anything.

So I’m guessing you didn’t buy a 2nd AGM? Just the lithium battery?

 

I ended up getting my flexible panel mounted to my Rhino Rack mesh platform (pics to follow). I ran the wires down the back with stick-on zip tie retainers and into the cab under the passenger seat. So far, I'm super happy with my performance when paired with a battery isolator system to charge even more while driving.

I'm running a combined 188aH of secondary AGM batteries and only see the voltage drop below 12v if the truck sits parked inside for a week or so while running my CFX-45 Dometic fridge. I haven't been getting above 14v (usually around 13.8v, which is ok for float charging) regularly with charging and realize that will impact my long-term life of the batteries, but both had some use before i bought them so I'm not super concerned around the life degradation since I got a decent deal and don't know the history of them anyways.

Having this isolated system has been critical for not only having cold beer but also running my boot dryer in the winter and charging my photo gear while on the move.

Happy to add any more info or color as needed as people get this figured out beyond what @5678ta has graciously added.

 

Original setup and still currently the setup is just a single Yellow Top Optima. Didnt add any secondary battery to the system. The Lithium was purchased to completely isolate the system, but decisions were made to just leave her as is with the plan to build out the new truck.

I think the fact that you have a TON of capacity helps your situation. Please, add anything you want to this thread. There are not many solar threads out there to begin with, so the more visibility we can get, the better for everyone. I'll do my best to keep up and reorg the first post with links to relevant info.

 

Set this up the other day. Flush mounted the 2x100 watt panels to the prinzu rack. This was it isn't totally a one use item. Attached it to a battery bank behind the back seat to run independent of the truck. it's designed to run the fridge all on its own. I can put the gear on the roof rack now but just lose the solar. I have a dual OGE battery set up under the hood as well which can run everything.

 

I'm planning on doing something similar. I’m going to run a 50ah lithium battery behind the back seat with a 100w panel connected to it separate from everything else in the truck. It’ll just be used for a fridge and electronic charging.

 

Do you have a photo of your OGE dual battery setup? I bought their split-battery version; it's due to arrive next week, and I'm looking for ideas on how others have added separate circuit breakers & fuse panels.

Thanks.

 

subd for ref

 

Nice job. I'm interested in doing something like this

 

Hello,

I have my OGE split dual battery setup installed and working, and am curious about your dual panel config. Do you have any specs on your panels (manufacturer, model, etc.?) Also, how are they doing, would you buy them again, and would you change anything if you had to do it all over again?

I'm considering some semi-flexible solar panels, from Powerfilm, but need to do more research.

Thanks.

 

Bump for thread revival. How is the panel and module still treating you. I am tossing the idea of ordering this panel

$77 Renogy Solar Panel 100 Watt 12 Volt, High-Efficiency Monocrystalline PV Module Power Charger for RV Marine Rooftop Farm Battery and Other Off-Grid Applications, RNG-100D-SS, Single 100W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF5JY35/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uvN1EbKH73VCB

And the same controller you have and mounting directly to my prinsu cab rack since my rear is taken up with my rtt. The main purpose is just like you I have my csi fridge running 24/7 in my shell and would want to keep the northstar 27f fully topped off especially if we go out for a weekend of camping.

 

I have to say after running just the fridge off solar last summer it was good but this year I bought the fridge insulation cover and wow what a difference in power draw. I have it running all the time now and that's on the full freezer/fridge temps. Having 105AMP/HR in AGM batteries (so really 52.5 that can be used) I can go day's without sun now and as soon as it comes out it just charges everything up. I still have the dual batteries that I can run but don't see the need unless it rains for a week. Having a fridge is a game changer when truck'n around the trails.