What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I would probably intercept one of the lines from the BN1 connector under the driver's seat (it's on a 2000, isn't it?). You could even put the switch somewhere near there, I suppose.

Here's a link where the schematic and pinouts have been posted before.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...diagram-for-1998-tacoma.588719/#post-19655078

You can grab either the blue wire from pin 9 or the W/B ground at pin 6 - I'm sure either would work.

 

Took me awhile to figure out your name...

 

Yea I suppose that could work too. Yea it's a 2000. I'll do some poking around.
Thanks for the input!

Welcome to TW btw!

 

I started one side then used a pic to pull around it and up over the edge. Piece of cake.

 

Started a rust treatment/prevention project over the weekend. Starting with inside of the boxed portions of the frame. I drilled a 1" hole near the rear wheel well on both frame rails to allow for drainage and rust chucks that used to be my frame to fall out. I jacked up the front end to slope the frame back towards the drain hole. I cleaned and removed as much rust as possible from the inside of the frame by using a power washer through all the openings in the frame. In the third photo you can see a sample of what fell out under the drain hole when washing. Next step, Eastwood internal frame coating. To be continued....

 

I always wondered about this argument. I mean the most it could possibly weigh is based on how many cans of the stuff you use right, not a whole lot. Plus I believe it is thinned before spraying, so even less.

 

Pretty much depends on how many coats of the 1000g mix you use.

 

Couldn’t you just weigh the cans before and after. Whatever you used should be pretty close to how much stuck to the truck. How much do the cans weigh anyway, 10lbs, 20lbs?

 

Is the dry weight different than the wet weight?

 

Yeah I don’t think it adds too much weight at all if applied correctly.

But TW is a wealth of great information and data. Figured this would just add to it.

 

That would probably work. I’m not a physicist but I’d imagine the dry weight would be lighter than the wet weight after it cures.

 

This thread in particular is detrimental to my wallet. I get so many good-bad ideas from here!

 

Removed crunchy things. Installed new, non-crunchy ones.

 

While the truck was parked and waiting for those new coilovers, I also removed the bed and did some rust mitigation procedures.

 

Wow those old ones were crunchy. Looking good man

 

...and this was a Utah truck for most of its' life! The previous owners built it to be used, then promptly did so quite a lot.

 

You aren't lying about the heat. It's awful.

Hopefully it cools down a bit this weekend

 

Please... I'd trade you weather in a heart beat It's all relative

 

Suppose to be 102 today

 

Gallon cans are 8.8 lbs, although the tintable comes in 28 oz bottles, you add 8.3 oz of hardener, 3 oz. of tint. It can be reduced by as much as 20%. The bottles go right on the gun. I purchased an 8 bottle kit (more or less 2 gallons). I also got two bottles of black for flares and bumpers, and bed (if I have enough) I run a liner, so if I don't have enough, no worries.

I saw some outrageous number for the weight for a square foot of liner, on one of the manufacturers web sites, something like a pound and a half per sq ft. When I saw it, I thought that they must have been off by a factor of 10 (or more). But I couldn't quickly find the reference when I searched again.