Questions re: solar panel installs

I mounted

Newpowa 100 Watts Monocrystalline 100W 12V Solar Panel High Efficiency Mono Module RV Marine Boat Off Grid (100W Classic)

this rigid 100w panel today on my 2019 SR5. The panel is sized perfectly to fit within and beneath the rack on my ARE DCU top. So perfectly I don't even need any hardware--it's super snug, and needed a little tap with a rubber mallet to get into place.




I really like the ease of this and the fact that it keeps the panel below the rack. I know I'll be losing a little bit in the way of sun angle(s) but this way I can both remove the panel fairly easily and use the rack without removing the panel.

Two questions about this for folks who might know:
1) Obviously this means I don't have any air flow under the panel. I know that can affect performance, but I was sorta hoping the entire aluminum top would act like a heatsink. I can drill holes in the frame if need be, but I'd rather not create the possibility of whistling. Thoughts?
2) Does this firmly wedged style "installation" mean I might be more prone to cracking it? How much give is built into the metal frames? I imagine that when off roading, or hitting bumps, there must be some flex in the camper top.

 

Solar panels need at least one inch for air flow/cooling. The aluminum frame doesn't do much as a heat sink for the perimeter and nothing for the middle. Most panels are quite inefficient as it is and when they get hot even less so. Stay away from stick on flexible type...they just don't last.
How do I know all this...I'm building a solar system for our RV (actually I'm rebuilding the whole RV, 28' Ford E350, 460-V8). The system will have 1000 watt in panels, 300 amps of lithium batteries (Battle Born) and a slew of other things...

 

Thanks for your feedback DAS. I was hoping to get away with no gap, but knew it wasn't ideal. Hate to have to remove it everytime I use my rack for lumber, etc. but not sure there's any way around it.