Seized/rusted inner caliper pistons

Don't just change one do them both and get her done or other will soon do the same - once you are dirty and tools are all out.
Not sure what year but I would replace the old reservoir fluid and refill with new to keep the new calipers from getting filled with crap.

Leave the key off (keep it out of the Tacoma as if wife/girlfriend comes out to help and wants the window down - ops too late) when bleeding so not to trigger an ABS lockout and a flatbed trip to the dealer.

 

I’m still on the original calipers 13 years and 440,000K later.

 

when i had to replace mine i also installed stainless speed bleeder screws.

two SB7100-SS

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

Even if i have to do this all again those can be used on the next caliper..

The only reason my caliper seized was actual tears in the boots that allowed water and probably even salt inside. The side in which the boots were intact was fine. Cant be proven but i think the boots where torn during the dealer brake service.

 

Yeah, I think Toyota changed their caliper manufacturing process.

I had over 350 K miles on my '07 AC and never needed to replace a caliper. I did have a leaky wheel cylinder on one of the rears.

At about 75K on my '15 AC, I had a frozen passenger side caliper and now I'm getting some intermittent shakes when braking. Makes me think it's happening again.

 

Can you just replace the caliper with this or do you have to go with the Wilwood rotor and hat?

 

Thats similar to my 15DCLB, light braking seemed fine but a lot of pulsing when doing harder braking.
Sure there are many choices for rebuilt calipers out there.. i went with a power stop
rebuilt one. Time will tell. I think its the quality of the boots that will make the difference.

 

I've found homemade cast iron anchors off sunken boats in the bay that looked better than that.

Can't imagine the other side not being just as bad. So yea, do both.

Curious where you live and what your frame looks like.

 

Replace them!!!!! Geez, why is this even a question?

 

Note the screen name.

 

Haha it looks extra wet cuz I just sprayed them with lube

the other side has been replaced so no need to do that (bought the truck a month ago, so tackling jobs one at a time)

complete In about 30 mins. Boom!

 

its a good feeling getting shit done aint it?

 

This is the caliper I replaced... if you look closely you will see a tear/hole in the piston boot/seal. this is what seized the piston (both on same side)...

And it had been inspected and serviced at the dealer.. no way they couldn't have not noticed this.
I was getting a lot of shudder when braking moderate to hard and figured it was time to replace rotors and pads.
when doing this side it was impossible to push the pistons back to make room for new pads. that's when it became obvious why...

 

Since your healthcare is free they figured you needed to pay for something,

 

Looking at your picture you have done something I should have.. You have the caliper retaining pins going from the inside out rather than the factory style outside in... Having had to use a big hammer and punch to get those pins out it would have been much easier to beat on them this way then trying to reach inside the fender well and beat on them that way.. Next change I will switch then around.

 

Why even bother with your rusted junk,buy new ones and move on.

 

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