vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma

Unfortunately the MT crowd is solid with (just) the tip in. So, the big worry is the AT crowd turning it up to 11 and ruining garage doors all over creation.

 

Good stuff - this is what i was seeing too.

I hope that testing goes ok. The only thing i can think to go wrong is burning out the alt from the extra work. i dunno

 

I don't see how this will adversely affect the alternator.
In the service manual it specifically sets the alternator to 14.8 volts to confirm it is working within operation range.
which means 14.8 is an operating range.

Wouldn't make any sense for techs to test a voltage that is not safe for the alternator to confirm the alternator is working properly.

 

This is why we pay you the big bucks thanks for the info.

btw i have - 0 miles on the stock B14 tune with the alt settings - only let it idle in the driveway... did a few revs to make sure my truck didn't splode.

 

I'm just happy we found and developed a feature that is actually useful for you guys. ^_^

 

I love running the 2.0 sfob 93 tune.
but i spent my money to tweak specifically the alternator so i don't kill $700 in batteries in a couple years. To me, the time and energy is worth it on this one. The performance tunes are just an added bonus.

Someone here told me "you can have your cake AND eat it too!"

Thanks @OVTune - appreciate all the good stuff

 

Ummm . . . FOB / SFOB, the Single Torque Map patch, the revised DFCO cut in, the revised ACIS, the massively expanded throttle map, etc. have transformed the experience. Every added MT feature has been appreciated over here.

 

@tonered inspired this.....

After the previous alternator setting changed, here is what i see....

OVTuned Data Logger


VoltMeter on the battery




From the bluetooth monitor on my starter battery

 

Just my opinion, but you might want to turn that down a tad?

Also, remember that idle voltage is going to be lower than voltages above idle. They should be steady at about 1,200rpm and above, or something like that, when the R/R (or ECU in this case) shunts the excess charge.

 

Yep, exactly where my thoughts are. The voltmeter is the true number to me and it's too damn high!


maybe 94 is the magic phase number?

But interesting to see the bluetooth module directly on the battery read lower than the volt meter. I'm not surprised the ECU reads just a tad lower

 

Thanks for testing. If it were my truck, I’d tone it back a little and target 14.6-14.7 at the battery which appear to be acceptable low end charging for most AGM’s. My plan is to set it lower and drive for a few weeks at a time and hook up a charger now and then to see where the battery sits in charge %, then increase until I’m seeing 98%+ when I set it on the charger. Start low and creep up vs start high and burn down...

 

What's the best way to get the % charge?

 

I have a battery charger (Schumacher) that shows that as it’s charging. I’ve been using that to top off my AGM every 2-3 weeks. Typically at 3-4 weeks my battery will be around 88-90% and I can get it to 100% with about an hour on the charger.

 

Ok yeah same here - i have a duralast charger from autozone with an AGM setting - when i hook it up it comes back usually 88-93% range. after an hour or two, i swap to the house battery and then i'm good

 

Any circuit after the terminals is going to show some voltage drop. The undeniable truth is that OBD adapters are badass though.

 

I've modified the ECT numbers to 95 - still unclear what this is or does. But previously i was on 96.
Now my readings are....

 

It looks like you nailed it. Like @BortisYeltzen said, monitor it until you are comfortable.

 

And now at 94 under ETC 30 and up...




I think i'll leave it there for now. Hope it was helpful

 

Forgive me for asking, but why do you guys all have these crazy battery setups? for lights or camping?

Topping off batteries every 2-3 weeks sounds like a pain if it were a daily driver