"What would you rather" TW Edition

I'm thinking through the rest of my build and have an issue here. I want to do a 2-3 inch lift and run 33's so will add about 2.5-3.5 inches to my overall height

There's only about 2 inches of clearance from my bedrack mounted RTT to the top of my garage door (7 ft door) and I have a few options...none of which I particularly like

Current set up:
Stock suspension on 265/75/16
14inch bedrack
Tepui 3 person tent
DB SE cover
Tonneau cover brackets for the rack
About 2 inches before I start hitting the top of my garage door.

Terrible options:
1. Swap my bed rack to 10 inches ($700) - Means I also cannot mount a rod vault anymore (breaking down 9 foot fly rods to move is a real pain)
2. Swap to a hard shell tent that isn't as tall ($3,000 - $1600 I can likely get for my tent now)
3. Only do a 2 inch lift and pray I clear on 33's
4. Sell the DB cover and mount the bed rack to the original brackets (tonneau brackets add 2.5 inches to the height of the rack)
5. Don't lift the truck, buy more armor and continue dragging the bottom over rocks.
6. Buy a new house with a higher clearance garage door?
7. How much would it cost to increase the height of my garage door?

Okay, kind of kidding on the last two but you see my point. I don't like any of my options. What's the lesser evil here?

 

what about skinny 33's without suspension lift.

 

Oh, that could be one too...I am more concerned about clearance than fitting 33's though. But that would give me a bit of clearance on the cheap (relative to the other options). I do with 255/85/16's had more tire options though

 

Don't forget 255/80/17's for more options.

 

Technically a lift doesn't add clearance, at least not of the undercarriage and differentials. Tires give you "ground clearance"

 

Skinnies on 17's definitely seem like a good option now that you guys have mentioned it. I could add another inch or so over stock that I'm sure would help me not hit stuff. Adding suspension later could be more of a ride/payload thing since the rear has sagged and rides like garbage now

265/70/16 : 30.61 in. diameter
265/75/16: 31.65 in. diameter
255/80/17: 33.06 in diameter

OE > Skinnies: 33.06 - 30.61 = 2.45/2 = 1.225 inches of ground clearance over stock

Now > Skinnies 33.06 - 31.65 = 1.41/2 = 0.705 inches of ground clearance over what I have now.

^Feel free to double check my math, but also just wanted to get that down on "paper"

 

If you can afford rod vaults...replacing the header above your garage door and getting a new door aint nothin.

 

The math doesn't always match the actual diameter of the tires either. That's a general tolerance for the specific size. You may gain a little more or a little less

 

Can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not, but if that header they put on there is load bearing I feel like that would be pretty damn expensive to do. Plus I'm not sure if the city would allow it...(row homes, all look the same, etc.)

 

I worked construction for 20 yrs. i am well aware that a header is spreading load.
If its in a gable wall/ windwall...its not even accepting that much weight.
It just needs to be built not to sag over time under its own weight...lvls and glulams to the rescue,
Its really not that bad of a rework...even if the garage is drywalled.
Screw a couple 2x12 to the ceiling joists, put in 2-3 temporary jacks or lally colums,
Boost the ceiling a 1/4 inch/ take pressure off the header....
Cut it out, rip out the king stud and jacks/cripple...put new king and crips in with an after the fact hanger.
Install new lvl...remove jacks/lally columns. Cut garage door opening bigger.
Have someone install a new garage door..then trim it. If you do it right you only need a sawsall, a level, a screwgun a circular saw,a cats paw, a hammer, a tape and pencil.

 

Patiently waiting for when this devolves into an actual “would you rather” thread.

 

Well....we're waiting

 

I can’t be held responsible for that.

 

I'm running 35s on about a 2.5" lift. Just have to cut a lot. Lol you can fit 33s on a 2 inch lift with a good cab mount chop or relocation. And trim or remove the plastic in the fenderwells

 

Any ballpark what that would be? More so looking to see if it's even worth getting some quotes, seeing if the community would allow it, and all the other leg work it would be to get the stuff approved.

 

I hold you personally responsible for what will inevitably come of this comment

 

Two questions for #1:
(1) What type of bedrack do you have? I have the MAXmodular (KBVoodoo) type in 10" and I've seen in that thread that Chad will sell parts to convert from his 14" to his 10" for like $300.
(2) Why not use some sort of bracket to elevate or outboard the rod vaults with the 10" height to get them over/beside the cab when needed? They cant be very heavy, I've seen a guy do this with a long ARB awning on a 10" rack.

I honestly think this could end up being the cheapest route.. maybe like sub $500.

FWIW I have a tepui kukenam 3 on a 10" rack with 2.5" tonneau brackets and the top of the tent is just a tad above the cab height (I can attach pics or measure if you'd like). Should give you enough clearance to have fun with your suspension/tires.

 

A 16 ft lvl engineered beam is around 90 dollars,(2) 2x12s x 16 ft are around 40, jacks and lallys you rent or beg/ borrow/steal, (8)2x4x10 20 dollars, fasteners( nails, screws, lagbolts)....50, a sheet of plywood for filling in misc 9.00, hangers and hardware 40.00 , trim allowance 100.00 ( cedar, composite, 1x pine wrapped in metal etc) so anout 3-400 in materials.
garage door can be anywhere from 800-1600, unless you want something high end then the roofs the limit.
24 hours labor....if everything goes right its usually more like 16-18.

Remember you are going bigger...not smaller so you generally dont have find match materials for outside finish...just be smart about how you rework whats already there.

 

I actually have the same rack! I originally got the 18, was too tall so dropped to the 14 with plans to bolt on some 1 inch square tubing to make some extended cross bars for the rod vault but needed it to be close to the roof already. If I could make some sort of bracket that would raise the vault above roof line on the 10 inch rack that would be ideal, but I have no idea how to go about doing that. They're not too heavy though, I think fully loaded with 3 fly rods is likely around 50lbs.