1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

SPC LCA Cam Bolts Rubbing

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by osterhagen, Jun 15, 2020.

  1. Jun 15, 2020 at 6:24 PM
    #1
    osterhagen

    osterhagen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2019
    Member:
    #301384
    Messages:
    579
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rafe
    Glendale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2003 DC v6, MTM, 4x4
    "Totally Stock"
    Evening TW,

    I recently installed new OEM bushes and replaced the factory alignment cam bolts at the same time (kind of a while you're in there thing...)

    Anyway SPC leaflet says to install them with the bolt heads facing inside the LCA, but the factory is installed with the bolt head facing the steering rack.

    So I installed as instructed (see attached pictures) and the bolt end is rubbing on the rubber boot that covers the inner t-rod on the steering rack.

    I made a little silicone cover for the bolt head but still don't really care for how it sits. So I have a couple questions and thoughts. I don't see any reason I can't just install the SPC's as the OEM's were installed (bolt head facing rear of vehicle) and all should be good.

    But I don't know very much about this particular subject. Would there be a reason SPC would suggest to install them this way? Do the SPC's provide more adjustment? My OEM's were still in great shape, so I could always clean them up and use those instead.

    Thoughts? Suggestions? Would also like some input on a good default starting point with my setup for these bolts and the SPC UCA's. I'm running OME 883's with Nitro Chargers total of about 3" of lift. Tires are 285/75/R16 (Cooper STT Pro's) on SCS F5's with 3.5 BS

    Thanks!

    Included leaflet:
    IMG_1582.jpg
    Box (for reference):
    IMG_1580.jpg
    Picture of the rubbing and cover:
    IMG_1584.jpg
     
  2. Jun 16, 2020 at 6:54 AM
    #2
    osterhagen

    osterhagen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2019
    Member:
    #301384
    Messages:
    579
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rafe
    Glendale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2003 DC v6, MTM, 4x4
    "Totally Stock"
    Nobody else running these?
     
  3. Jun 16, 2020 at 7:19 AM
    #3
    cast718

    cast718 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2019
    Member:
    #308035
    Messages:
    105
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    New Jersey
    Vehicle:
    2004 4WD Standard Cab 4 Banger
    Honestly, if your OEMs are still in good shape I would probably clean em up and put those back on. I have been researching this and haven't found anyone who suggests to use anything other than OEM parts for this. Which was unpleasant advice since the OEM is so much more expensive than the aftermarket. But if you already have them and they can be cleaned up, I would stick with OEM for this part. Makes sense too. Its not necessarily that you have to worry about them failing or breaking, but if they are inferior they could cause the truck to go out of alignment and then you have to spend another hundy or hundy fifty to go get it re-aligned.

    if you insist on keeping the new aftermarket, I would probably install them the way OEM is installed (i.e. other way around). No reason to believe that there is anything about the design of the aftermarket cams that would make it necessary to have them turned around. My unprofessional opinion anyway. Let us know what you end up doing.

    How did the bushing replacement go? Run into any nightmares or was it straightforward? What method did you use?
     
  4. Jun 16, 2020 at 7:35 AM
    #4
    osterhagen

    osterhagen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2019
    Member:
    #301384
    Messages:
    579
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rafe
    Glendale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2003 DC v6, MTM, 4x4
    "Totally Stock"
    I am not stuck on running the aftermarket, just picked them up in case. Will probably go back to the OEM I think at this point and sell these to someone else. I do think that installing them like the OEM variety would be fine and would also solve the issue.

    Bushing replacement went well. I used Timmy's method as I had all the tools he used sitting around. I don't normally mind press work but this was annoying, especially alone due to the shape of the arms. Having to try and balance the arm, line it up and pump the press really sucks. However putting the new ones in... so easy of course. So all the hard work is getting the old ones out. Mine were OEM and from the looks of everything hadn't ever been replaced. They were extremely toast and in some cases the inner and outer portion totally disconnected inside the bush so it would just slide back and forth lol... no doubt where my suspension noise was coming from!

    Here's some pics of the setup:
    IMG_1577.jpg
    IMG_1578.jpg
    IMG_1579.jpg
     
  5. Jun 16, 2020 at 7:50 AM
    #5
    cast718

    cast718 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2019
    Member:
    #308035
    Messages:
    105
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    New Jersey
    Vehicle:
    2004 4WD Standard Cab 4 Banger
    Not bad. Is that a 12 ton or 20 ton press? if it was 20, you think it woulda been okay using a 12 ton?

    Curious why you went with the OEM bushings and not the White Lines?
     
  6. Jun 16, 2020 at 7:55 AM
    #6
    osterhagen

    osterhagen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2019
    Member:
    #301384
    Messages:
    579
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rafe
    Glendale, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2003 DC v6, MTM, 4x4
    "Totally Stock"
    It's a harbor freight 20-ton cause I don't do a ton of it. Yeah I think a 12-ton would be fine, especially if you used a torch to heat it. I tried that on two of mine for giggles and the force to remove them was reduced by half I would say. It was a big difference.

    I went with OEM for several reasons, first being I was placing a large order with them for wheel hubs, LBJ's, seals and a shite load of other stuff. Second was some of the complaints about the white line (noise,pre-mature wearing etc) and I am big fan of Toyota parts. Most of there stuff in really well made and lasts a long time. Considering the bushes I took out had 297k on them... I felt good going with OEM and knowing I won't have to mess it again for a long time to come hopefully.
     
  7. Mar 26, 2025 at 7:04 PM
    #7
    idahohounds92

    idahohounds92 Hounddogger

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2025
    Member:
    #467793
    Messages:
    23
    Gender:
    Male
    N. Idaho
    Vehicle:
    1999 Tacoma 4x4 extra cab 3.4l
    osterhagen, did you keep them installed the way the instructions said to? I just got done installing them and was wondering if it was ever an issue for you? Thanks
     

Products Discussed in

To Top