Home Improvement Today?

Our houses mustve been built by the same person..

 

paper towel is kinda wood and wood is R-1 per inch so maybe R-1/4 to zero

 

The casing on the sidelight should extend to the floor with the baseboard running into it. You may have a small gap where the floor meets the sidelight where you will need to use shoe molding or 1/4 round. I know this is an old post and your done by now, but for anyone else who runs into the issue, thats how its done right.

 

Well, continuing my sons house renovation. On my first walk through I notice an elevation difference in the master bedroom floor of a half inch . Upon further investigation (removing the OSB subfloor) we discovered the joists set in the block wall were 1/2” higher than the 3 joists set on framing where the block wall (fire wall) ended. See photo. The only viable solution was to add 1/2” plywood to the 3 lower joists then lay 3/4” CDX atop that running to the higher joists.

 

So that joist goes into the block wall? There's no ledger? That's some piss poor framing right there. Cement and doug fir don't like really get along that well for extended periods of time.

 

Agreed! ‘Piss poor’ is putting it lightly. The kitchen soffit is directly beneath the floor, I noticed zero fire stop blocking in the soffit. I shot my tape measure down the wall of the soffit, all the way down...

 

I know most of you guys hate drywall but there’s something satisfying about having very little trash after I’m done. Turns out I make maths gooder.

 

Come redo my garage ceiling!

 

Electrical question here. I have a 240v device that has hot+hot+ground. The only outlets I have are hot+hot+neutral (NEMA 10-50 & NEMA 10-30).

Normally it's considered unsafe to use neutral to carry current and act as a ground but since I'm not using the neutral I don't think there is an issue here.

 

Ripped the last section of sheathing off and reinsulated. Window replacement tomorrow, resheath, wrap, then can start siding. The inspector was diligent today and shit everywhere.. but she passed my roxul job

 

"NOT FOR ELECTRICAL USE". What do you think they meant by this?

 

Those are clearly plumbing breakers.

 

I'll go out on a limb here and say they mean don't use for electrical

 

Looks like the third time's the charm. I got the new motion light up on the shop. It comes on when I flip on the switch and shuts off after 2 minutes as per the switch settings. Right now I have the sensitivity on high. I'll test it out this evening when it gets dark, and adjust as needed.

Ended up using

Arlington 8171 Plastic Surface (Vertical) Mount Dutch Lap Siding Mounting Kit with Built-in Box 6-5/8" Width x 6-5/8" Height

this and

$25 Arlington Industries 8100LP-1 8100LP Wall Plates, MEGA, White

this to mount the light. The first piece mounts to the siding and has a little electrical box molded into it. The second piece is just a larger cover piece.

 

Look like your helper is a little short to reach the high area.

 

This is the same setup I had to go with to mount a motion sensor light without cutting any new holes.

Glad it all worked out for you.

 

The inspector doesn't need to be tall but it does give it a Napoleon complex. Hence all the shitting.

 

Watch the inspector slip on all the shit.

 

7 weeks of un-sheathing and un-insulating and re-insulating, re-sheathing, new windows, and siding. Getting there..