The BRWNTRD (Hasn't flopped yet)

Sounds interesting. So it's a full relocate, not just an additional one added in a different location.

Is there something being done for jump starting like you mentioned?

 

If they need to jump often, Anderson quick connects can be added to have easy access without crawling under the truck.
But regular jumper cables can be used, just have to crawl under the truck and reach the battery post.

HYCLAT 2-4 Gauge Wire Connectors, 175A Battery Quick Connect Disconnect 12V-36V Powerpole for Car Bike ATV Winches Lifts Motors More Red 2 Pcs

https://www.amazon.com/HYCLAT-Batte...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

If I had more time when I was doing this mod to my truck I would have opted to run something like these. Since I didn't, I'd have to crawl under the truck but realistically getting a small jumper pack is the most ideal to keep in the truck. No jumper cables needed.

$92 NOCO Boost GB40: 1000A UltraSafe Jump Starter – 12V Lithium Battery Booster Pack, Portable Jump Box, Power Bank & Jumper Cables - for 6.0L Gas and 3.0L Diesel Engines

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-Ul...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

but with easy access Anderson connector and cables you can jump others also.

I have an Anderson in my grill for the winch, and the jumper cables.

 

The current plan for the relocate is the battery box welded to the frame on the passenger side next to the muffler, the power post mounted nearby, short leads from the battery to the power post, and then longer leads for positive and ground. The positive will run to a bus bar in the stock battery location to meet the alternator and other stuff. The ground still needs to be figured out specifically where it will be ran to but likely the frame in the vicinity and then up to the engine or transmission.

Apparently I need to read about anderson connectors because while I'm not opposed to laying on the ground to jump my battery I'd prefer an easier option.

 

Those power packs linked earlier are legit. I’ve used it on mine and others.

 

I've got a pigtail you can have, about 5' long, terminals to Anderson

 

Someone may or may not have used a multimillion dollar government facility to make me a vaguely penis shaped winch control box mount. Not gonna name names though.

 

I like this idea

 

Black trucks diff has been pulled. Tomorrow @desertjunkie760 will help me pull the diff out of the brown truck and then take advantage of all the extra space to weld in the Marlin Crawler LCA Brace. Once that's done we'll install the 4.56 gears and Harrop e-locker and wire both the lockers up.

Then I'll have a 4wd locked truck for one week of shenanigans before a 10 week trip starting in July.

I ordered 2 different dog seat covers from Duluth Trading, we'll see which one is Belle approved. Then it's time to figure out the rear door protector, she's not a fan of windows half up.

 

I'd probably try a clear wrap under the window. I looked for a while but never found anything great. Thankfully my pups keep there paws inside so its no issue for me. If it was a problem I'd likely just talk to a wrap shop.

 

Step 1: Remove front diff and LCAs

Step 2: Trade ADD tubes, the old actuator will stay with the black truck.

Step 3: Watch @desertjunkie760 weld

Step 4: Have driver’s side Marlin Crawler LCA Braces installed.

Step 5: Finish welding driver’s side CMC


Not pictured: The step where we drink beer.

To Be Continued...

 

Long day, lots of work. We got it done though.

 

I see scratched doors from paws in your future

 

She's already gotten a few in, but I like her more than the truck so I'll allow it

 

It’s just a Sport, basically stock, nothing special.

 

Is that 2nd rear diff lock button you hit when you really, really want it to be locked?

 

I think there's an older fj series that has a different lock switch for front/rear. Only thing, you have to trigger the rear in order to trigger the front.

 

Yeah, @Cruiser Brothers includes that with the Harrops but I couldn’t find a good spot to mount it. The two stock Tacoma buttons are the cleanest way I’ve found to do it. Left is front, right is rear.