Getting ready to start my wiring. Any suggestions?

So, here is my wiring diagram. Anyone have any suggestions? Anything I might be overlooking? I know there are some real gurus on here (@caribe makaira @empty_space and anyone else I may not be aware of yet) so I am hoping that you guys don't mind some light reading and can shoot me some feedback. I'll try to explain what I am planning on doing here, and hopefully it makes sense.
Starting from the top, working down:
The different colors are just that way to help me keep track of what goes where. Black is a local connection, Red is power (+) from power distribution, Orange is a wire that passes through the firewall, Green is a connection made in the fuse/relay box, Violet is going to the rear, Blue goes to the front.
I am using 2 GEP power distribution blocks for Relays, Diodes, and Fuses.
First up is Bed Lights. I have a topper as well as plans to install the OEM bedlight kit here. Since I would like the lights to come on if I switch the OEM cargo light on, or if I open the top/tailgate. I plan on doing the latter with ground switches so they can also tie into the alarm trigger for the "trunk". So "Bed Lights 2" basically turns a ground switch into a positive output that triggers "Bed Lights 1". So the bed lights can be triggered by either. But if the cargo switch is turned off or to the door position, the tailgate switch can still function.
Second is the rear lights. This one is fairly straight forward. I will have rear mounted lights that can be activated anytime via a SPST switch, or by way of the reverse light triggering it. The diode will serve as a gate so the switch doesn't light up the reverse light.
Third is the puddle/footwell lights. I have the Meso customs puddle lights and plan on adding lights to the running board that come on/off with those. They are going to be able to be turned on anytime via a SPST switch. Same thing for the footwell light, just a separate SPST switch.
Fourth will be the AUTO high beam switch. This is just a replacement for the Stock SPST switch. So same functionality, just using an aftermarket switch so it all matches.
Fifth is straight forward. A power supply for a dash cam/vanity mirror, an auxiliary power outlet, and a power source for a rear defroster for the topper, all controlled via Ignition.
Sixth will be the fog lights. I am using Nitori's write up on adding lights to a prewired SR, so this switch will just ground out pin 26 to turn on the fogs. Controlled via parking lights.
Seventh is where it gets odd. I am going to have ditch lights as well as added lights to a roof rack (eventually, need a roof rack first). I want to be able to turn on the ditch lights with a SPST switch (S1) and turn on the roof lights with another SPST switch (S7). Easy enough. But I also want to be able to turn on the lights via the Meso Customs shifter momentary switches (S10 and S11). So if I press the right switch, the right ditch light and the right roof light come on. Same for the left switch. Controlled via parking lights, so if those aren't on, they do nothing. So 4 relays (one ditch left, one ditch right, one roof left, and one roof right) as well as 8 diodes to keep them seperated.
And eighth is real straight forward. A bumper light as well as grille lights controlled via SPST switches tied to the parking lights.

Hopefully all of this makes sense, and I appreciate the input. Plan on starting the harness in a couple weeks, so figured I'd get my work checked before hand. Thanks for reading my novella..

 

TL;DR, but good luck...hope it turns out great and nothing catches fire!

 

What is this?

 

And this?:

 

SPDT backup switch ?
Driver or passenger select ?

 

Those are ground switches. One is a mercury switch, so when the topper gets opened, it closes and makes a ground. The other is a regular grounding pin switch like most alarms use on hoods, so when the tail gate opens it makes ground. I went with grounding switches because there isn't really a fear of shorting and the alarm I have has a negative trigger input for "trunk".

This one is replacing the AUTO switch. The one that does the auto high beams. I have a harness from the Meso shifter that he uses for the ECT switch, so I am using the center 2 wires for illumination of the switches and the other two are the yellow ones that go to the left, so when the aftermarket switch is on, it closes the circuit (same thing pressing the AUTO switch does now). Pretty much solely an aesthetic thing.

 

Two separate SPST switches in parallel. Either one can complete the circuit.

 

Read your owner's manual...The AUTO switch is a funky one. Press to select, press to de-select. (it's a momentary switch)

 

No, its definitely physically a latching switch. Could be that the ECU is just looking for a change of state? I can swap that with a momentary switch easy enough if that's the case.

 

I just checked. If you leave the stock switch in the depressed position (on) and turn off the truck and and lights and everything, and then come back, restart it and turn the lights on, the high beams are still in the AUTO position. So it acts like a latching switch. That is probably why Toyota specifies “press to deselect”?

 

11 switches and 16 relays? Good lord. That thing is going to sound like one of those old school arrival boards at the airport.

 

That made me laugh! Luckily they are all under the hood, so I shouldn't have to listen to it.

 

Ever consider using a microcontroller? Arduino or something similar?

 

I looked into them a little, not too much though. I still prefer mechanical switching. Easier for me to figure out and troubleshoot. Also considered long term durability, and I know relays will last close to forever. I don't really like Switchpros and that type of device as I prefer the option for customizing and the stock look of the switches.

 

I'm on board with these two statements. Sounds like a wiring nightmare. Especially if you have everything in one box. But if you wire everything one at a time and test it, should be doable.
I would also take your schematic and break it up in 8 sections (less because some can be combined). It makes it easier to digest and improves the readability.


Comments:
Logic wise, it see what you are trying to do, and it makes sense. I don't see anything obviously wrong.
Bed lights/bed lights 2 is a bit wonky the way it's drawn. Similarly with the ditch lights and roof lights. Spreading the drawing out right more to give you more room would help.

What kind of relays are you going to use? Those big auto relays are a bit overkill or some of this and will just take up more space than needed.
If you do some searching, something like this below would be convenient because of its' size. But I would be cautious of how you mount it and the long term life expectancy of it. Lots of vibe/shock in a truck. So there might be a more ruggedized version of it somewhere. One reason why I prefer solid state switches for the lower power electronics.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-12V-1-2...coupler-Relay-Output-for-Arduino/163770658589

Solid state version. Might be something better than this elsewhere, I just did a 10 second search
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-...Arduino-Raspberry-Pi-3-3-5V-high/193000856124


Not sure the details on these signals, but if you have multiple switches ON at the same time and each relay pulls 200mA, that can be a lot more load on the source for those wires. Depending on what is sourcing it, might be a problem down the road. On the same note, make sure those relays are sized appropriately for that current.

 

Great points. I will look a little more into the solid state stuff. I plan on using micro relays and mini fuses for it all. I am going to use a Gep 72 and 48 position to hold it all. It’s all automotive grade and uses aptiv (formerly Delphi) metripack 280 terminals. They seal watertight (not submersible, but pressure washable) and the whole set up will have a footprint of about 6” X 7” roughly. Here is a rough idea of it ( not mine, just googled it):


As to the loads, each small relay handles 20A, the larger (defrost and Auxiliary power) can handle 30A. You probably have a point on the relay draw though, I better test that. I would think maybe 3 or 4 on at any given time tops, but better to be able to handle all of them and play it safe. All of the lights that these operate are LED and I think the largest draw is going to be the LED bar light in the bumper. It draws like 3A though. I will be wiring all of this in one shot, that why I am trying to be exact with it.

 

Here are the size specs of the boxes that will house 16 relays, 13 fuses, and 11 diodes the size of mini fuses:

 

Nice! That will be a good setup. I would still check each circuit has you go along. Nothing worse then wiring everything up, just to find out something is shorted...

Here's something that will probably be useful. Diode in a fuse package.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46880/Littelfuse-02400104P-1A-MINI-Diode/

Post pics of all your switches when you are done too. I'm curious how you are going to place all of those.

Also, what program did you use to make the diagram? Looks good overall

 

Add-a-circuit instead of tapping into IN1 (pillar tap)

 

Photoshop. A lot of pencil tool and shift key to draw a straight line. Those are the diodes I am using. I want everything to be serviceable, so I don’t want to solder them in. The plan is to wire and test everything, then build it into a harness with sections going from the main housing under the hood to inside the cab, to the front, and to the back. So three main bundles. I’ll post pics as I go, should be an interesting build. Planning on doing a few things that I picked up here, and a few things that I’ve not seen done yet ( like the meso shifter to trigger right and left side lights, using two 12” light bars in the bumper as opposed to a 30” so I can use ones rated for fog lights, that kind of stuff). I am still working out what I want to do with the cameras (as you know), but have included a lead for them. Basically trying to do things in a couple of phases. Phase 1 being this wiring “backbone” of the whole system, then I take the front end apart and install the fog lights, bumper light, grille lights (not raptor lights, actual driving lights), front camera, etc while I’m in there. Hopefully that all makes sense?