Oil filter access Pro skid plate & Toyota Care fail

Looks like another stellar oil change job from Toyota.

When i had mine done, they didnt use the access door and took off the full skid.. they tried to back the bolts out one at a time which moved the retainers. Then when the put it back on, the bolts stopped by the bolt retainer ring instead of the skid so the skidplate was on crooked

On top of that, they overnighted the oil canister and drain to the point I’m not sure how it didnt break. I’m pretty sure they used an impact in the 3/8’ hole of the canister drain to tighten it on the truck..

Since then I’ve done everything myself and the dealer hasn’t touched my tundra.

 

Mind telling me what size tap and die? Don’t want to buy a whole kit and I already have the handle.

 

Take the offer on the skid plate, tell them just put it in the back of the truck. That you'll put it on yourself. Give them the old one. Done.

 

I took my vehicle in recently for the first time ever in my life having someone else work on my vehicle. I created a thread about it here Only reason i brought it in was the for the "free" oil change. I managed to get out unscathed minus an over torqued oil filter housing cap. The stress and anxiety was enough to keep me from ever going back.

 

yup... same material internal and external threads, great way to get galling

 

Yep. Dealer stripped bolt on factory skid on my 4runner last time. There was oil all over filter housing same as yours too but i sprayed engine cleaner and no fresh oil since. They just made a mess during filter change and didnt bother cleaning at all.

 

This.

Why has the use of impacts become so regular for everything? Since when do you need an impact to change the oil?

 

Seriously. I use good old socket wrenches. And a torque wrench for all the oil related bolts.

 

All their impacts should be welded to only run in the "loosen" direction! That's what they're for!

 

the filter housing bottoms out and stops turning no torque spec.. you just need the special filter socket (I got a nice shiney one from my tool guy) the oil filter housing has 2 o-rings larger one for the black filter housing and a smaller one for the bottom filter (drain cap)

1. the drain cap should be removed first to drain the filter (less mess) filter element comes with a plastic push on tool to drain into a hose, or straight to the drain pan.. (might get 2 cups of oil out here) I just use a blunt screwdriver to hold up the spring loaded trap (this usually leaks as this seal does not get replaced, thus the o-ring on the cap.)
2. then use the filter wrench/socket to remove the filter housing
3. remove filter, and check in between the paper folds for signs of metal flakes note any...
4. I use a small hooked pick to remove the large O-ring from the housing, clean any excess oil off the housing, do the same with the smaller cap o-ring... I then check the bottom plunger is seated correctly (less chance of leak (check with flashlight, no light should come through) replace larger o-ring (use a little used oil here to lube it) I also run my pick underneatht eh O-ring to make sure it has no rolls/twists in it, the cap o-ring is lubed, and placed ont eh filter housing, and the cap put on, just snug
5. drain oil pan.
6. replace filter media in housing, make sure its seated all the way down
7. check filter/engine side housing for any dirt, debris, wipe with clean towel
8. re-install filter housing, start threading by hand, will get tight once you get to the o-ring, continue to turn, then snug it with the socket tool (shouldnt take more than 10-15ftlbs of force to get it to bottom out (you will see the lip of the filter housing touch the aluminum of the upper housing.
9. using your 3/9 ratchet extension, snug up the lower cap 10-15ftlbs is more than sufficient..
10. install oil pan drain bolt with new copper crush washer 15-18ftlbs
11.spray it all down with brake cleaner, (no oil residue)
12 re-install skidplate cover.
13. drop truck down
14 fill oil (5.9 Qts) check oil level
15. start engine (30 seconds, shut off), check oil level top off as necessary (the 5.9Qts does often not include the filter/cap/lines capacity especially if you have an additional oil cooler)
16. start up engine check for leaks at filter, and oil pan drain plug (you cleaned it so it should be obvious)

pretty simple, should take no more than 15 minutes...

 

This thread has convinced me to do my 10K service myself.

 

Theres a handy sticky up top that can help

 

I'm conflicted now, paid $330 for my skid and I don't want the stealership to fuck it up but then again it's free service I'd miss out on. Hmmm

 

Do it

 

That AND the almighty dollar: do everything faster without any QC so that we can screw up more skid plates that the customer has to buy from us.

 

Pull the small oil filter access plate off before you go in, tell them NOT to remove the skid plate. If they say they cant do it then go elsewhere or do it yourself.

Sometimes FREE aint always free.