Tire / spacing / offset question.

Forgive me i know there alot of post about the whole 285s with rubbing issues.

So I have a 11 tacoma. Jba high caster uca / ome 884 / 5100s. According to the jba website, the castor should be about 3-4. Mine is currently 3.2 - 3.0

The alignment tech said I've maxed out the castor and one of the tabs is bending over so he can't get more out of it.

If I would install the total chaos eccentric brackets, would I be able to get slightly more castor? It only rubs full crank in reverse.

I don't mind doing the cmc, sounds like it might be my only options at this point.

But I also got a suggestion that I should remove my spacers and that will help? I have stock 17s with 1 1/4" spacers.

Will more offset wheels help more? I plan on getting the AR172 baja rims soon and I'm not to familiar with rims/offsets

Also what is the stock height wheel to fender supposed to be?


I've attached the alignment spec sheet.

Just so everyone knows, it's not a mall crawler. I was skeptical switching from 275s to 285s but I plan on never going back. The ride imo, is way smoother especially on the dirt. I use my truck for hunting and overlanding.

 

The issue with tacomas is that the cam alignment tabs get bent outwards and flattened for more adventurous drivers like us.

This in turn means that the alignment on your vehicle probably won't last but a trip offroading.

The TC cam tabs are a good fix and I considered it but ended up going with marlin crawlers LCA gusset kit for almost the same price. This will also reinforce your LCA mounting areas and not just the tabs.

Here's the recent install I did this week. Not the best welding so don't judge haha

 

Good deal man! I am definitely going to get that instead. Do they come with tabs already?

Grind off old ones? Install new ones?

Also will this be able to add more castor? I really want to get it to 4 if not closer.

 

Actually they butt up right against the OEM tabs. There is maybe 1/8" of gap in between the stock tab and the gusset arms. You can always weld it and hammer flush so it butts up right on the OEM cam tabs. There very good instructions on their website and other online resources.

You can also buy both TC cam tabs AND Marlin Crawler LCA and couple the two. TC has updated the design to allow the thicker than stock cam tabs from TC to be installed in conjunction with the Marlin Crawler gussets.

Honestly all these parts do is reinforce. They may allow you to get more castor if they are adjusted from side to side as you install, allowing for an adjusted range of alignment correction. They do not grant you any additional castor off the shelf. They will however hold your alignment solid.

 

I appreciate all the info your sharing. It's very helpful. Soon I will probably be placing an order. I think I'll hold off on the tc plates. Did all you have to do is take your lca off? Even if you install the tc plates?

 

Not a problem, glad to share! No sir you don't even have to bother with uninstalling the LCA, you can weld with it on. I would recommend that you weld small sections at a time in order to mitigate any heat transfer to the LCA bushings.

I welded mine in my driveway but eventually moved to my shop because it is quite tricky cricking your neck and having weld spatter fly all over you

 

Right on brotha, hopefully the wife will let me get the parts soon haha

Yeah I have that little titanium 110 welder from harbor freight, should be pretty straight forward. I'm used to getting rained on haha.

The washers for the bolts should be tight up against the tabs correct? I think I may just cut the tabs and weld some new ones on.

 

I typically weld .030 gmaw 110v but 1/4" is a stretch imo. Picked up a small roll of Lincoln NR211, flux head for the gun and swapped polarity. Its a bit different but penetration (especially in wind) was substantially better. I crank up my gas reg to 40cfl on a typical windy houston day with gmaw. Fcaw was weird at first, I spat and spattered as seen on the passenger mount. I found slowing down and really building the pool up was the key. My settings on a 3200hd were max at "D" and wire feed of 3.5. Duty cycle plays a factor as well. Hardware doesn't matter as much as diligent prep work and knowledge of your equipment! (not to say there isn't a plateau)

Some of my tabs were bent and I attempted to reshape them utilizing various chips and chisels and a bfg. I took the outer steel pieces and used them to hammer in the bent tabs. You can chisel the old tabs off and definitely install new ones.

I do know of a cam delete kit that may be of interest to you... Just another solution you may want to ponder

https://www.polyperformance.com/tot...uiser-lower-control-arm-cam-tab-gussets-59860

 

I'll be using .035 flux core, I have some scrap 1/4 channel I am going to make tabs out of. Depending if I can bend the tabs back, I may cut it off, or throw a bead with the new tab behind it.

 

So I ended up dropping my adjustable shocks to 0 instead of .85. I have ome884s. I took the spacer off, it cleared the body mount.

Now it rubs the uca even with the 1.25 spacer on. I have stock 17" sport rims.

Will a 0°offset with 4.5 back spacing work? I figure I am going to have to do the cmc regardless. I have time to exchange my tires still, but I think I am going to switch everything to 16".