Rust Support Group

i am looking into making the pee-sized rear drain hole a more 'adequate size' for better draining
is this the proper type bit and size to achieve this, has anybody else done this to make those holes a bit bigger? i recall someone had but no pics were also presented with claim

https://www.eastwood.com/unibit-drill-bit-for-undercoating-plugs.html

 

@RustEnthusiast

I propose you rename this thread to:

https://tinyurl.com/yc39fqn8

 

I need to get a quote on fuel tank removal and re-installation so rail can be properly cleaned and re-coated behind

any guesstimates on what i am going to have to pork out?
$300 ... $500? ... this is not including the tow truck both ways
they are not confident with bed removal so they will need to take the tank off from underneath most likely
most all of my trucks fuel lines were undercoated to the fittings so crusty lines are probably a non-issue but i really do not know!
tried my best to keep the winter slop off of the top of the fuel tank for so long, it was most often the very first area to see the pressure sprayer

 

That's a horrible thing to do with inanimate objects.

 

Normally, it's improper surface preparation or bad paint that causes it to peel off. And what's weird is that your truck seems to be the only one to do this.

So, the paint was bubbling up and there was rust underneath? or no rust?

I'd really like to see a picture of what's going on with your frame, so next time you spot a problemetic area, take a picture before working on it

It is possible that humidity is causing this. Is it really humid where you are? Living in a coastal area?

 

got the estimate!, good news is its a bit less than my low end guestimate
roughly $277 remove & reinstall, which does not include the tow both ways, and they are able to safely store the trucks tank in their shop until i am happily finished cleaning what i can physically reach under there
but now i have to use some jackstands, etc. instead of the fancy high clearance hd ramps i was using on the passenger side. big bummer

 

oh yes! in the middle of the great plains on the big MO river, cornfields, cattle and pigs galore!
more pigs than people here lol

i checked on the RH and the average yearly humidity is 65 per cent, so much humidity in the winter sometimes as well

from this bit i found it appears i am located on the western fringes of muggy, not close enough to Colorado lol, must be why Iowa is worse for the humid swampness and bugs
"The climate of Nebraska. Nebraska has a humid continental type of climate (Köppen climate classification Dfa) in the east and semi-arid (Köppen BSk) in the west. ... The Rocky Mountains influence the climate profoundly as the windward side of the mountains sucks the moisture from the air masses that pass over them."

 

i am looking at making that puny little drain hole a bit bigger for better drainage

what size would you recommend
i remember a special type bit works best but forget what its called... i want to say a conical bit??



would this type of bit work well?

 

Existing drain holes are 1/4 I think, so 1/2 should be good.
Do not use regular drill bits, as they will cause burrs and you do not want anything to get catched onto burrs around the drain hole. Yeah, step drill bits (that's what they are called, by the way) are a better choice as they tend to make less burrs. If you do end up having some, insert the tip of a small file into the hole and file them down

 

I’ve only had rust issues from where the bed meets the cab and backwards, at least as far as I can see

 

onakat, here is a spot i just found on the inner rail in front of the cat where it appears bubbling under

 

oohhhh. nice new thread to watch. i can add to this for sure!

 

the area is out of focus. The "rust spot" is too blurry to see what's going on

Anyway, I think you are worrying way too much about that frame I'd swap mine for yours all day

 

i have seen one too many local tacomas around my area too far gone with near similar mileage and age that are shot and busted frames
this truck is driven in the winter on salty sloppy roads as needed but i always try to hose it down routinely the best i can where i can reach that wand in frigid temps
its just some of the rusted out tacos i have seen (on TW and locally here) the rust problems maybe comes out of nowhere and sneaks up on them without even knowing what is going on!

next month i can possibly see what is festering by the fuel tank when i get that dropped and towed back to base to work on, and maybe it will offer some more headroom for my useless neck back under there

 

another shot at it!



i don't know if that's rust or the primer underneath failing and bubbling under waiting for the top to start flaking off
its all very confusing!

 

still a bit blurry but looks like starting surface rust?
Has the color of rust though... unlike that spot under the bed you showed before

 

The original frame paint has not peeled off but looks getting close to it
Maybe that bad reddish primer underneath idk

 

One thing I've noticed after having my new frame for a year is that I'm starting to see some surface rust on top of the welds and some of the weld spatter. My thought is that the frame paint probably doesn't adhere as well in these areas with irregular surfaces, or perhaps the welds themselves hold on to paint less readily.

In your case if that rust is bothering you, I'd suggest getting a small can of POR15 or another rust converting paint and just doing a touch up on those spots. Some cleaning and minor sanding should help the paint adhere better.

 

I agree. My frame was replaced a few years ago and I have only slight surface rusting on the frame at the welds. When I am working underneath the truck I just use wire brush to remove the bubbling paint on the welds then use a rust converter and cover with black ceramic paint. I just did my front end

 

Also use a wax coating on everything! I use crc corrosion inhibitor .