Show me your water/meth setups on the 5vz-fe

I try to stay away from meth so I dont really have a setup for it...

 

I’m Only into clean meth. Ya know. Methanol! Lol

 

Still working on this. The wiring has been a complete PITA. I had to run a 8ga wire to the bed because it’s so far from the battery. I learned that ring terminals and crimpers for 8 gauge wire is near impossible to find locally.

 

I don’t think you have too but I think you should.
I used black gasket maker and sealed it in so it looks actually stock

 

Wanted to update my last 2.5 years and 65,000 some miles with this kit.

The kit and system has worked perfectly.

I’m running at 6000 feet and 10.7 peak pounds of boost.

Essentially I have zero heat soak issues in the summer anymore.

When the kit was installed the nozzle was a size #1 which is the smallest available
and spray point was at 3.5+4 pounds up.

The #1 nozzel does get plugged up because it’s so small.

I decided to put the #2 nozzle in and it worked better.

As the miles added up the AFR was getting leaner so I went up to another size 3 nozzel
then a 4 nozzel and 5 nozzel over the next two years.

Finally got to a point were I needed a 6 nozzel to keep the AFR perfect under full boost.

So with the 6 nozzle my fuel trims were at 14 to 29, so that’s means there’s a problem.

I replaced the fuel pump even tho it tested perfectly at idle at 43 pounds of pressure.

Then I bought a new aftermarket MAF and installed these items.

Truck ran better but still not correctly.

I tried three different MAF with different fuel trim results and ended just buying a OEM MAF that gave me perfect trim numbers.

THAT was the ticket with the new fuel pump.

Now the truck is back to a number 2 nozzel and the spray point starts at 6-7 pounds instead of 3.5-4 pounds of boost.

The health of your fuel pump and the OEM MAF are a critical part of this setup.
Apparently both of these parts were not working at 100 percent.

Truck is running at its peak again

 

Excellent tried and true and verified results. Sharing your experience here is a huge help for the community and will help others for years and years to come

 

Oooo my truck came with a methanol injection kit from Devil's Own. I removed it, though.

Anyone want it?

I know nothing about it, but I assume it'll work with the gas engines that you heathens are still running in your Tacos, right?

 

Update on my end. I’m running a #1 Devils Own nozzle and using 25% meth to water starting at 3psi when the SplitSec enrichment kicks in. This cools to IATs and hopefully adds just enough fuel to keep STFT close to zero under part throttle boost.

I have a progressive controller but don’t really use it. So I should be flowing roughly the same amount at any boost level. Since I can pull timing and add fuel via the 7th I only have the Devils Own kit to add cooling.

 

Yea, May 2017, 65000 miles ago,

 

Anyone have extra nylon tubing left over? I need a small amount and don't want to buy a 25' roll.
Doesn't mater what color.

 

like how much? I might have a few feet at best.

 

I think ill need about 4-6'

 

I ran 100% methanol as my extra fueling at 15psi for about a year. I was using a Coolingmist progressive controller with failsafe option, and running through 2 nozzles. One was a humongous one, and a smaller one. There's nothing like running methanol fueling. I had it on a rear mount setup with no intercooler, and it was amazing. Until it wasn't. All it takes at that power level is one dip in the methanol supply, or in my case, one sequence of misfire, and the engine is toast. I popped two motors using methanol as extra fuel. Meth injection has it's limitation, and I do not thing they best way to provide fuel for forced induction is using meth injection. The most reliable way to not blow your motor is using a computer and larger injectors. Use methanol injection only as a detonation/cooling/charge density aide.

YMMV

 

valuable knowledge @vasinvictor , thanks for sharing. I want to see water/meth kits evolve to be more like fuel setups with EMS that see tip in, injector duty cycle etc.

 

If your running high boost numbers 12 plus, Racing your truck then larger injectors and a piggyback or reflash ECU would be a better of course and possibly running methonal with that setup.
The TRD supercharger is not a high boost supercharger, you can’t reflash the ECU and has no inner cooler.
If you have a healthy fuel pump and injectors, a clean carbon free intake, ( not clogged with carbon) the stock setup needs only a little extra fuel help to keep it happy.

The methonal kit is an inexpensive 400.00 easy solution.


So for the 3.4 it actually works very well to
1) eliminate the ping issue
2) able to add a smaller pulley
3)eliminate heat soaking issues from the supercharger
4) eliminate carbon buildup in the throttle body and engine valves and piston areas
5) lowers intake temperatures as much as 100 degrees
6) lowers supercharger temperatures that effects the seals and bearings
7) creating cooler denser air, hot air is thinner, cold air is more dense.

So there are other advantages #3-#7 that you can get from methonal kit.

I average about 3000 miles a month,
I’m at around 75,000 with this methonal setup and working perfectly.



There are some maintenance that has to be done like cleaning the nozzle
and filling the wiper tank regularly.
It might not be for everyone

 

WE HAVE A PROBLEM WITH USING WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID FOR METHONAL MIX FOR LONG TERM USE.

Here is some important information when running Methonal for everyone to take note.

I’ve been running methonal for about 80,000 miles or so.

It’s been working perfectly and keeps my AFR perfect with 12 pounds of boost and a 2” pulley.


BUT WE HAVE A PROBLEM NOW!

I was running boost juice which is 50/50 methonal and water.

Boost juice is a bit expensive @ about 12.00 a gallon. Because I drive 30-35k a year Im was using a lot.

So I decided to make my own boost juice with wiper fluid that starts off with 30/70 ,
30 methonal, 70 percent water mix.

I bought a 5 gallon container of pure methonal @ 32.00 and mixed the wiper fluid to 50/50.
Now my methonal mix was down to around 3.00 a gallon or so from the 12.00 I was paying before.

So something I didn’t know is that wiper fluid is water that comes directly out of the river!!,

It’s not distilled, it’s not filtered for minerals. It has a general filter and that’s it.

So the side effects are there will be mineral buildup in the nozzle and on the bearings and seals inside
the supercharger.

My supercharger rotor pack seals failed at 80,000 miles which is uncommon.

While the supercharger was being rebuilt it was discovered that the rotor pack seals were encapsulated with hard water mineral deposits. The hard water crude had made the seals fail and the supercharger oil slowly Leaked out of the Reservoir into the rotor area and the bearings failed because of the lack of supercharger oil. There was no visual leak of this oil because it was leaking into the rotor area inside.

Bottom line is DONT use windshield wiper fluid long term because it’s not distilled or mineral free and might damage your rotor pack seals with long term use and will plug up your nozzle.

My solution for this is to just buy distilled water (mineral free) from target at .80 cents a gallon.

5 gallons of distilled water =4.00 plus 32.00 for 5 gallons of methonal = 36.00

36.00 will make you 10 gallons at 50/50 and that’s about 3.50 a gallon instead of snow performance at 12.00 a gallon.

Also note methonal is heavier than water, if you want to be perfect in your mixture you should weigh out the two amounts.

I just mix it by volume, it’s close enough for me.

Depending on the size of your nozzle and your foot a gallon will get you 500-1500 miles a gallon.

 

Just finished my install of the Snow Performance kit on my crawler. My crawler has been having issues under load with what feels like a mis-fire. Only happens when the engine is warm. At first, I figured I had O2 sensor problems as the CAT was gutted by the previous owner and was missing the pre-cat o2 sensor. I had the exhaust redone and it made no difference in performance but I got rid of all my CEL's. After browsing this thread I bit on the Meth injection idea. Will post results later after I take the Crawler out this weekend.

 

hey all,

a few questions on the meth kits.

i have that high gear low rpm ping i want to get rid of.

trd second gen charger, stock pully, stock fuel system.

im not really interested in more power just make the ping go away. would a low meth or water injection work.



last question is i see alot of people are interested in the "safe" systems that shut off the SC - why would your truck explode if you ran out of meth, when it didn't explode before the meth?

 

Just curious, how do the red lines attach and come apart from the pump.

My line look the same and I wanted to change them out but could not figure out how they come apart from the pump, the nozzle is a quick disconnect and is different then the pump lines

 

They are push quick connect fittings. We used air lines fittings similar to this when i performed maintenance on the press machines at a laundromat. I believe if you push the fitting in. it will release the clamping action and you can carefully remove it. If thats not the case, i have no idea how to remove the lines. Might call Snow Performance.