Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

Same with me. I wasn’t “pre-wired” for the light stalk but know how to wire to the stalk connector if I wanted to go that way, I preferred the switch.

 

Well, they showed up. I'm not sure I like the FONT on the switches, but the light is a pretty spot on match. As far as the dual illumination, the second LED isn't lighting up with my wiring job. So I will have to ask the seller.

 

You can also wire the switch to activate a relay, with pin 30 to ground and pin 87 to the tapped wire. This would light up the top LED when activated, and send ground to the tapped wire 26. That is how I am doing mine.

 

There are two LEDs on the switch, and only one is illuminated normally. I have to figure out how to wire it so the second switch is illuminated when depressed. The same goes for the other switches.

We are just wiring them wrong from what I can tell.

 

You are not, they need to have 2 grounds, which they don't.

 

Could it be the 5th pin that isn't being used? I should test this out.

 

I can tell you from personal experience, that fifth pin is not hooked to anything. The reason it wont illuminate the top LED is that the top LED uses the load wire (green) for the + input on the LED.

If you were to say, wire it backwards, like swapping - and +, so that the green would be delivering a - and the black would be +, so that when the circuit between line and load is closed, it would deliver - to the LED and load. Problem there is that the anode and cathode would be backwards, and the resistor would be post LED, so you'd burn up the LED.

So the way you want it to work cant be done without rebuilding the switch. That can be done and I can explain how to do it, but you'll need to solder, and it gets funky. I did this for a defroster that I am installing, and also changed the top LED to Amber. So the switch is light blue, and when pressed, the top graphic lights up amber, the bottom text stays blue, and the defroster turns on. After the defroster times out, the amber light shuts off. Sounds simple enough, until you have to add the 5th unused wire, resolder the LED and resistor, and jump a ground. Not worth the effort if you're a sane person....

So here is the simple way around it:


You just need a simple 4 pin NO relay.

 

The two leds get power individually but share the same ground. The 4 wires are:
Switch power
Switch out to accessory or relay
Switch independent led power
Led (both) ground.

Switch power can be any fused source capable of handling the current. Relays typically only require .1A to trigger so a 5A fuse could supply a bunch of switches. The switches themselves are not robust and can only handle 3A or less so relays are recommended for power controls vs signal controls

The switch “on” led gets power when the switch is pressed and is connected to the same ground as the independent led. The connection is on the circuit board inside the switch.

Switch out to accessory or relay- obvious.

Independent led power- the dimmer circuit is hot when the headlights are on so I tap this for those leds to have them come on like stock.

Led ground- The dimmer circuit is a floating ground, meaning it’s not just connected to B- but varies the voltage on the ground side. I’ve heard both pwm and voltage control mentioned but either way even at the brightest setting they will be dimmer than connecting to chassis ground instead. This allows both leds to dim together without affecting the switch output voltage since that goes to ground either through a relay or an accessory.

 

I find it convenient to have both ignition hot and always hot fused power available so I mounted a split fuse panel under the cup holders(no more difficult to access than in the stock location). The always hot half has a #10 wire on a 30A fuse at the battery but the door lock fuse on the inside panel is also always hot. The ignition hot half is on a fuse tap from the stock interior fuse panel. It’s for low power applications so it’s only a 10A fuse.

 

Yeah, if I just hook the switch directly to power and not to power through the relay, the second LED works.

I am going to have to draw this up. I know how to do this, I'm just lazy and I don't want to get out my Rubbermaid 30 gallon electronics bucket and make a giant mess. I told myself I wasn't taking apart the dash this time. So far so good, but the addiction is real!

BTW: I will have mictuning blue switches for sale when I get all this ironed out if anyone wants them. They are identical to the off road air in every way except for the LED color being a regular blue and not cornflower blue. You can swap the boards between the switches. They are probably made in the same factory in China.

Reverse Lights
Grill Light Bar
Garage Door (Momentary Contact)

Edit: Thank you for your input and sharing your work. Feel free to post up the changes you worked out on the forum. At the very least the reading is entertaining.

 

Boring update later. If I reverse the polarity on the switch and send power TO the relay instead of grounding it, then the second LED works, so I will have to find a good switched +12v in the cabin and then run that to the switches.

I think I will lose the dimming control from the ECU, but that's fine with me. I hooked up the interior lighting lead from the bed light switch to a small .5a inline relay and had a rheostat laying around from a previous daft punk helmet project so I can dial in the brightness just the way I want it on the additional switches.

Now I am retrofitting the two cornflower blue LEDs from the air onboard switch to the over-sized mic-tuning Blue LED Fog switch. Adding in another .5a relay to change it from providing power to the headlight pin in the ECU to giving it ground. So now BOTH leds work across the board, but I have a power wire running across the hood into the cabin while I'm testing everything out and haven't started hunting for a power source.

 

As long as the resistor is in the circuit the led won’t care whether it’s before or after. More critical is the polarity of the led but that can be reversed on the circuit board.
However, since the stock switch works by grounding the ecu you could instead power the an aftermarket switch just as it is designed and using both the pos and neg of the dimmer circuit also as laid out but use the switch to control a relay to ground the ecu instead. Unlike leds, relays don’t care about polarity either on the coil side(switched) or the output side. You can supply either power or ground(whichever is needed) to activate one and it can supply either a connection to power or ground once activated.

 

This is true. I guess I always put it before the anode as a habit. Keep in mind that on these switches, the cathodes share a ground and the anodes each have a resistor as one pulls from the illumination and the other pulls from the line. So the switch still needs to be rebuilt to accomplish it. Just go with the relay like I diagrammed, and save yourself a headache.

 

After modifying the small Mictuning fog light switch to make it light the fog symbol Top LED, I decided to replace it with the larger CH4X4 fog switch I had also ordered, I just like the bigger form and being on the end of the switch cover. Pretty sure this one isn’t a DPDT switch I can modify, but I don’t care that the top LED doesn’t light I can’t see it anyway without leaning my head way over, it lights up the dash symbol and thats what matters. No way would I add another relay and wire it to power just to turn an LED on a switch on!

 

So I’m trying to wire up my 2020 SR and I will already have to tap into the Blue wire on pin 26. The question is pulling power for the switch. The cargo/deck plug is already being used, bed lights came pre-installed. Would I need to tap into those or is there somewhere else I can draw power from for the dash switch?

 

Blue is a ground. What switch are you going to use?

 

I’m planning to use a dash switch, one of the ones used in the thread. The plug I’m holding is the cargo/deck plug, where others have plugged into for the power to the switch.

 

None of those wires are for "pulling" power.
Green (+) switch illumination.
Tan (-) Switch illumination - not to be used, unless the added switch has independent illumination bulbs.
White with Black runner/stripe - Ground
Blue - Purple - Red: don't mess with them for this install.
So again, what switch are you using/adding?

 

You can check his post history, but @caribe makaira is well versed in the Tacoma's electrical systems. He's trying to help you from causing damage to your truck.

 

I guess “pulling” is the wrong term. I’m going to use one of the mictune dash switches with the universal plug. I know the green will go to pin 26, but the red 1, red 2, and black wires from the plug are where I’m trying to figure out the placement. Others have used the cargo/deck plug since it was unused. Mine is already used for the factory bed lights. If I need to tap into that I can, but I’m just looking at other options before I start splicing wires.