2005 DCLB PreRunner Build

I tried using a pool noodle as a seal between the truck and bed cap to keep rain out when we have the slider windows open.



The initial install, I used a little spray wax to get it into place.

This is after about 200 miles of mixed highway and off road driving.

It seems to have settled into place well, I'm sure the wind buffering pushed it down some. Once the wax dried up it stopped moving.

We had a pretty good rain storm and it worked well! No leaks!

 

We did make it home by the way! I got the truck started the next morning.

I addressed part of the issue here;
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-removal-that-little-red-devil-button.675634/

 

So I bought a new positive terminal connector and battery today. I went to start it yesterday and it did the same thing, just one click. Multimeter indicated 8.2 volts.
I took it in to have it charged and tested, it was toast.
I went up a size to a 27F, Duralast Gold. I got a good deal through my Ford dealership buddy.

 

This is a review of sorts of the trip we took up to the mountains where we got stuck, it's from another thread but I thought it my be useful information here too.

We took it up to the mountains this weekend, about 400 miles round trip.
The highway speed limit was 75 mph.
On the way up I kept it around 70 mph (72.45 with speedometer error) and pulled 17.6 mpg (18.25 mpg with error) over the first ~120 miles loaded up with gear.

I didn't fill up again until I got back home so the other 280 miles were about half off road and the rest highway back. I drove 65 mph (67.275 with speedometer error) on the way back. The average with mixed driving was 20.4 mpg (19.07 mpg with error).

EDIT: After reviewing my mileage and fill ups and doing the maths and calculations I found that the trip was actually ~400 miles, not 450. I also did the calculations for my speedometer error with the larger tires, while it is not much of a difference it was still cool to crunch the numbers. It changed my mpg findings a bit and I have added those next to the original ones above.

Also for those who may be new or just interested,
I put together a bit of info for calculating the error % for tire changes to help with mileage and speedometer calculations.
If you are one who already does your mileage, or one who doesn't care to bother letting the thought of that ruin your day, this may not be interesting to you!
I like the numbers part of it more than anything, just figuring it all out. At the end of the day, I mean seriously, what are we driving here? T-rucks.
Don't all go crazy at once

So here;

Assumption:

1. The odometer “calculates” the distance based on the number of revolutions for the tire it is calibrated to, 245/75R16 in this case.
2. The diameter of the stock tire is 30.5 inches (245/75R16).
3. The diameter of the new tire is 31.61 inches (265/75R16).

Observations:

1. The revolution of a tire is equivalent to the circumference of the tire.

Fact:

1. The Circumference of the tire is equal to PI times the diameter.
2. 1 Mile = 5,280 feet.

Calculations:

1. The Circumference of the 31.61-inch tire is PI * 31.61 = 99.3 inches or 8.27 feet.
2. The Circumference of the 30.5-inch tire is PI * 30.5 = 95.8 inches or 7.98 feet.
3. Calculate the revolutions required to travel 1 mile on stock tires (5,280 feet with 245/75R16). 5280 / 7.98 = 661.65 revolutions.

Intermediate Conclusion:

1. For every 661.65 revolutions of the tire, the odometer will register 1 mile.

Further Calculations:

1. In 661.65 revolutions, a 31.61-inch tire will travel… 661.65 * 8.27 or 5,471.84 feet.
2. For each 661.65 revolutions, the odometer will increment by 1 mile even though the vehicle has traveled 5,471.84 feet. Therefore, a vehicle with larger tires will report less miles driven by the odometer.
3. By taking the rotations of the new tire, 638.45 and multiplying by the circumference of the stock tire, 7.98 feet, we can find how much distance the larger tire will cover by the time the odometer increments by 1 more mile. 638.45 * 7.98 = 5,094.83 feet. So then 5,280 – 5,094.83 = 185.17 feet.
4. The difference in distance is 185.17 feet for each mile driven. 5280 / 185.17 = 28.5. Actually traveling 28.5 miles will cause the odometer to be off by 1 mile.
5. The percentage of error can be calculated with (1 – 5,094.83 / 5,280) * 100 = 3.5%. That is, 5,094.83 / 5,280 = 0.9649, 1 - 0.9649 = 0.0351, 0.0351 * 100 = 3.5%.
6. More simply, 100 / 28.5 = 3.5.

Speedometer error an also be calculated with the 3.5% error from the mileage calculations.

Speedometer Calculations:

1. At 100 MPH the actual speed traveled will be 103.5 MPH.
2. To find the error at any other speed you take the given speed, 65 * 0.035 = 2.275. Then add that to the given speed, 65 + 2.275 = 67.275 MPH.

Conclusions:

1. For every 100 miles traveled you will add 3.5 miles for the tire error.
2. Over the length of 1 mile, this adds up to 185.17 feet.
3. After “actually” traveling 29.5 miles, the odometer will be “off” by 1 mile. It will read 28.5 miles.
4. At 100,000 miles the odometer will be short by 3,500 miles.

A Larger Jump:

1. A 2017 Jeep Wrangler that came with 225/75R16 tires moves to 275/65R18 tires.

2. 225/75R16 has a diameter of 29.3 inches, therefore a circumference of 92 inches or 7.66 feet and covers 689 revolutions per mile.

3. 275/65R18 has a diameter of 32.1 inches, therefore a circumference of 100.7 inches or 8.39 feet and covers 629 revolutions per mile.

4. 629 * 7.66 = 4,818.14

5. 5,280 – 4,818.14 = 461.86

6. 5,280 / 461.86 = 11.43

7. 100 / 11.43 = 8.75%

8. 8.75% means that at 65 MPH the actual speed is 71 MPH. It also means that at 100,000 miles the odometer will be short by 8,750 miles.


Final Conclusions:

1. If the error is small, like the 3.5%, the difference over time is obviously less significant and probably does not warrant a recalibration if you don’t want to do that.
2. While jumping up to a much larger size does not necessarily warrant a recalibration either, it is worth it if you care to keep your odometer accurate.

 

I was thumbing through my amassing "Tacoma Pictures" folder and saw a few that were from when I first bought it and I fixed the radio. I realized I hadn't covered that here, and while it's not exactly exciting or anything new I thought I'd still share.

The radio was aftermarket when I bought it, Jensen brand I believe. The volume knob worked intermittently and just jumped to random levels back and forth. Forget trying to lock in a radio station. The CD left in it is something spanish, I forgot to eject it before I pulled the radio.

I ended up pulling the Kenwood out of my Mustang, just a single din that would swap into the Tacoma bezel.

When I first pulled the Jensen and bezel out I was greeted with this;

I dislike hack jobs, and those twist nut things.
Oh and the earth wire was stuck into that steel bar in the dash behind the radio with a spade connector and tech screw.
https://youtu.be/rjeuL_Tk0E8?list=PLNq2_BmcMzJ0eEic0ul2Y9FdnHSsdOpLY&t=890

Here's a view of the earth wire


I cut all that out of there. The factory connectors were still there but the wires were cut pretty short, of course. I could have reused them though it would have been annoying.

I went to the local pull-a-part for some other odds and ends, they had one Tacoma and there was not much left of it. I found a few of the smaller things I was after.

I also happened to pull out the radio, now pay attention here because, this still baffles me, the entire factory harness from the dash was gone, the whole thing, except for the two connectors stuck in the back of the radio which they cut off and left a good 3" of wire.

Why is beyond me, no other connectors were left there in the same fashion.

Good for me though! I pulled those and was able to rewire factory connectors onto my harness and buy a proper radio adapter kit to wire to my new radio.

Much better!

The radio looks pretty standard, I tossed my scan-gauge in the storage pocket just below it.

 

I hate hacked up wiring harnesses. Looks like you got lucky finding the only taco.

 

It's the worst, and usually the first thing I address on any project.
I didn't expect much from that one either, seriously lucky! I have been checking the pull-a-part website a few times a week and have not seen another Tacoma there since.

 

Did a chalk test, looked pretty good at 36 psi.

I did all four tires and took pictures but I don't think it's really necessary to put them all.

Front Driver.

 

Tackled a little project today for a small not really necessary but still annoying thing.

It'll probably apply to .002 people out there since it's only an issue because I'm making it one.

Here's the issue. Center seat on the right, outside seat on the left.

Why they had to make these different I couldn't say. Maybe production efficiency? So people can't strap in with whatever buckle they want all willy-nilly?

It just annoyed me, and I was curious how and why they worked this way. I also happened to have another set of buckles from the junk yard that I got because I thought mine were broken.

Sooo
Popped the caps off with a screwdriver in those notches at the back.



Found the difference here.
The white bit is shorter, allowing the longer clip to slide in. The black bit prevents the longer clip from seating fully.



Easy enough, just swap the bits.
The red button pops off, watch the spring!
Then this bar slides out. That white thing just clips onto the bar.


This bracket comes out easy.


Then remove the last spring and slide the plastic bit out. One of each colour.


Then swap them and put it back together in reverse. All the other parts are the same between the buckles.



Voilà! Now they work anywhere!

It's also cool to see the inner workings of the buckles.

 

Trip Report!

We put 3,322 miles down last week on our trip to Wyoming.

Average MPG was 19.11

We went stopped in Aurora, Colorado for a couple of days on the way up and then continued on to Cody, Wyoming. Went into Yellowstone for a couple of days and tooled around Cody a bit. Took a day trip up to Billings, Montana (A possible candidate for our eventual relocation) so we could see the city. It was pretty nice, we enjoyed it. Stopped in Durango, Colorado on the way back and rode the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway Steam Train (that's a long title!) That was awesome!

I kept an eye and ear on the truck the whole time, rolled with a full set of tools just in case! Other than a light squeak from the front suspension that I have not pin-pointed yet and a funky brake feel (may be time for new pads and rotors) it was a champ! No mechanical or other issues at all.

We started the trip at 199,536 miles and rolled over 200,000 just before Colorado Springs!




I was watching that like a hawk so I wouldn't miss the rollover.

I'm working on uploading more pictures and I'll post them up when I do.

 

Finally got some tint!

35% driver and passenger
Something light (I don't remember the percentage) over the factory 35% on the back doors.
Nothing on the rear because I didn't want it to be hard to see through with the cap on.
I also got the SunTek ceramic film on the front windscreen.

 

Ordered new lug nuts, not sure if they're the proper fit though, what do y'all think?




I checked the base angle, both are 60 degrees.
My question is about the contact patch, the gorillas have quite a bit less area on the angled portion. I couldn't find definitive information, even on Goooble.
I've never used slim profile spline lugs before so I am not familiar.

 

Birthday gift from my Wife and family.

Still need to pick up some ancillary stuff but ready for the most part.

 

Working on some brackets for the Ironman pod lights that I got for free with my suspension kit.
They're going on my Wife's Wrangler, not the Tacoma. Fun little project so far!

Lights


I picked up this wiring kit from Harbor Freight, the connectors are the same as the pod lights, lucky me.


My initial idea skeched up on the top right corner and the scale drawing on the left.


After cutting and grinding and drilling for about two hours I have these, ready to be bent and welded up.


Hopefully they'll turn out well and actually fit properly.


This also got me thinking about trying to whip up some bed stiffeners for the Tacoma. They're not any more complex than these, just a bit bigger. Worth a shot right?

 

After bending them into shape, I just need to weld them up now.

 

A few practice welds on some scrap




Looks close enough to the "good weld" pictures to me.



Burned them in and after a bit if grinding

Done

Test fit on the Jeep and anddd...

I forgot about the angle of the windshield.

Sooo

And


Then re-weld


And actually done!

They looked better before I had to rework them but I still say they're a win.

 

Installed with the correct angle





Just painting and wiring left.

Bed Stiffeners on deck!

 

So it turns out that stainless steel is a bit finicky to keep straight when you heat it up a lot, you know like when you weld it.

I couldn't get my bed stiffeners to stay square, I don't have a proper welding table or enough clamps yet. So for now they're on hold, maybe I'll finish out those ones in the future or get some mild steel to work with instead. We'll see.

I'm working on a welding cart for the time being, using an old metal screen door and a free dolly.


It'll swing out so I can eventually put a bottle on the original dolly section.

It's a bit top heavy and tips forward and to the side when I open it up but I still need to add some extensions to the bottom to stabilize it.

If it doesn't end up working out at least I got some practice in!

 

Progress on the welding cart.

Started on the base platform


Added a latch deal, using up scrap bits.