Alabama thread!

Lift up and put some pressure on the underside of the cv while you hit it with a prybar and a metal hammer.
Ive test fit mine all the time and it wont come out unless i put pressure from the underside and it comes out pretty easy then.

 

Your not wrong tho

 

It just needs some pressure on it from the underside to release. When you put the clip in it slides to the underside of the diff because of gravity. When you push up on the cv it will move enough to line the clip up so you can give it a couple of good wacks and it comes out.

 

Yessir. Thats why i said with those power numbers, throw you a bigger trans cooler on there and away you go

 

when I have to replace my CV again I'm definitely going to ask on here before doing my own thing then.

Because I pried for a few minutes and then did my little idea, it works, but if yours is easy i'd rather work smarter not harder!

 

Yea i call myself doing that, ive done the driver before maybe this ones a lil more stuck. I rotated pried rotated pried and it never worked, gonna get a piece of cable and try that method.

 

I agree, someone familiar with towing heavily can make those little rigs work, just have to be more cautious with it.

 

I see no reason why it wouldnt be. F150s are very reliable. The Raptor is very reliable. The 2.7 is very reliable, the 10speed auto is one of the best 10 speeds out there. It has dana axle and front diff. Everything but the suspension and electronics are proven already. And ford does pretty well with electronics. If it were a GM or chrysler id be worried.

 

I think taking the skid off i could get and put pry bar on the lil notch on the inner cv and bump it out, just didn't wanna take skids off gonna try the rope method or i saw using a tie rod puller.

 

Get a jack stand and line it up with the inner joint metal part. make sure there is pressure on the jack stand. Wack that thing as hard as you can. Im telling you it will pop out lol. I ran into the same issue until i did that and it pops out in like 3 wacks everytime i do it and doesnt move when i dont.

 

They make cv pullers for trail repairs that work awesome.

 

*gasp* it's not a toyota though

 

Also when putting it back in its easy if you line the clip up ontop of the cv and it slides right in with 3 wacks as well. Its actually a reayy nice design if you know the proper way to take it in and out haha. Locks it in place real good.

I had it out of my truck with the cv in there and had all the room i needed to wack the heck out of it and it didnt move until i did the method i just explained.

 

@Cred92

seems cheap enough if it works.

$77 OTC (7509) Inner CV Joint Puller , White

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Inner-CV...ocphy=1012931&hvtargid=pla-434879548009&psc=1
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pr...lR9j8j8jv6OvEXYiW6M2k897_fWLcl-QaAtONEALw_wcB

 

I grew up with ford. Never had any issues out of any of them i have owned. Every GM ive owned sucked. I wouldnt buy a new f150 due to it being aluminum. That being said, if toyota made something like this id be all over it. But i think Ford knocked it out of the park and i will be getting one for the wife. If its a massive POS ill trade it on a sequoia lol.

 

Southeast overland used to make a rope one the you attached to your hammer. Ive seen it used in person. Works well.

 

Why do you not like aluminum? I'd honestly like to see the tacoma made out of aluminum, the things are heavy tanks.

I grew up with Ford too, even a 6.0 Powerstroke, dad bought it with like 10k miles on it tuned it and it lived granted tuned it's whole life till 250k miles before a headgasket finally let go.
Truck was crazy fast with about 420hp at wheels so it was well taken care of, but we did play around with it as well. 4Hi burnouts lol

 

Yea ill add that to my options gonna get up saturday start early got way too hot yesterday.

Yea may add one to the tool bin.

Yea that seems like itd be the ticket think ive got some cable at home gonna make it happen saturday, gotta get a inner hub seal today.

 

I'd have it on a wide dirt trail the day after I brought it home. Yeah I wouldn't want pin stripping the paint, but i'd have to find some ol' country road to test it out.

 

The Dana 44 is is almost outcast in the lineup of Dana axles at this point. They are stock in the rubicons, but most folks change to 60s over upgrading the 44. They are also wider than the Toyota axles, which could be looked at as a plus.

Nissan frontiers and xterras have the same rear axle in the pro4x trim package. It’s not as strong in stock form as the Toyota axles though.