$ replacing u joints?

That's how I feel. I got no problem getting dirty and working on my truck but I only attempt the "easy" stuff. Plus we're talking about an 11 year old vehicle. I can't tell you how many times a 30-min job turned into an afternoon nightmare because of rusted bolts.

My mechanic at Midas (who I've been going to for many years) said he'd do the job for $300 if I bring him the parts. That's good by me and worth the piece of mind.

You all have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it. Thank you!

 

You've got a point about good CB's.

I heard it's just Sport Tacoma's that get zerk fittings, but I'm not sure the truth.
Either way, I wonder if anyone knows what greases are best to use for each location, and if it's cheaper to buy a small size tube and gun or regular big one.
Not sure if style matters, such as pistol-grip handle versus lever style. I hear this is more of a concern on lower cars where there's less room when wrenching on the floor without a shop lift.
Used to use Rhino Ramps for my car but lately did any Tacoma wrenching slid underneath the truck without any lifting tools. It was a tighter fit under the front diff (to change the fluid) vs the other parts such as gearbox, transfer case, and rear diff.

I wonder if it's possible to still find/buy old model versions on the market that have zerk fittings then, if that is preferred.
I'm not sure if U-joints are the type of thing that can be modified to install a zerk fitting, or if a needle tip can simply be used to grease in there.
Whereas I've heard on passenger car control arm ball joints (sealed, plus rubber boot) that you can still technically drill a hole in the top and screw in a zerk fitting. Not sure if that introduces contaminating abrasive metal particles from drilling into the joint or not.

I wonder if it's possible to still find/buy old model versions on the market that have zerk fittings then, if that is preferred.
I'm not sure if U-joints are the type of thing that can be modified to install a zerk fitting, or if a needle tip can simply be used to grease in there.

Just curious; what about rusted bolts? It's probably worse on pre-04 cars from the rust belt. But I thought corrosion like that can always be remedied? Such as by ordering extra parts (new bolts) to have on hand to install new replacements if needed just in case,
and a little "tool kit" to address that, such as MAP(MAPP?) gas torch, insulating foil to block off sensitive areas to protect from heat, your preferred penetrating oil, a hammer to shock things loose, and so on.
One of many tools is a Snap-On air hammer, but those are expensive and need a shop air hookup or air compressor. Air compressors are expensive, need to plug into power, and I don't know if all of them are big enough to hold lots of pressurized air for continuous tool use. As opposed to stationary shop compressors because they're typically huge and stored in their own little room.

 

Not trying to highjack the thread but looking for a solution for my vibration I found those?
Am I missing something?
https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-p...9MjAxMCZ0PXByZS1ydW5uZXImZT00LTBsLXY2LWdhcw==

 

Depends on the year. Most 2nd gen 4x4s have zerks. My 3rd gen has zerks only on the front shaft.

Yes a pistol grip grease gun is easier, since you need to use one hand to apply pressure on the zerk coupler. Any NLGI Grade 2 lithium grease will do. Mobil, Shell, Castrol, whatever. I happen to use Lucas. Avoid grease with molybdenum disulfide as it absorbs water and produces sulfuric acid.

Rock Auto sells 2-3 versions of U-joints from each brand. Some have conventional zerks, some have flush zerks that require a needle adapter, some have no zerks (just a solid forging).

Most driveshaft bolts are thru-bolts with a nut. If corrosion is too bad you can just cut the bolt head with a cut-off wheel.

 

That's an honest mechanic. Typical shops make a profit only from the part sale while the labor just covers overhead. Many mechanics refuse jobs when you bring them the parts, both for lack of profit and potential liability.

 

Uh no. ... from my post at the beginning of this thread....

$31 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1X is the greaseable model,

$28 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

5-1330X is non greaseable. Get the greaseable one op, I grease mine every 5k miles with good ole red-n-tacky, nothing fancy needed just fresh grease and they will go for a long time.

Also.. CALLED IT, that toyota would not replace individual u joints and just wants to replace the whole shaft.

As far as pulling the yoke and replacing the CB. Drop the driveshaft out of the truck, Undo the CENTER u joint to split the shaft in two so you can expose the yoke nut (MAKE SURE TO MARK THE DRIVE SHAFT SO YOU CAN LINE EVERYTHING BACK UP AS IT WAS. ITS A FULLY BALANCED SHAFT).

Put the front part of the shaft back in the truck, truck in park, or 1st gear. This will now hold the shaft properly so you can undo the yoke nut. Pull the nut off, and use a 3 jaw or 2 jaw puller to pull the yoke off. Now remove the front part of the shaft off the truck and then pull the cb off with the puller. Now reverse, Slide new CB on, slide Yoke on then go through the proper torque sequence to set the yoke and CB. First torque to 134 ftlbs to seat everything, back nut off completely, apply some red thread locker (or stake the nut after final torque), then final torque to 51 ftlbs. Yes you read that right, 134 first, back off then final 51.

 

for 300 bucks in labor, thats very VERY fair for the job, as long as you trust him.

 

He's been great to me and my wife for years and always takes care of our cars. Let me ship wheels and tires I got on eBay right to his shop. Even threw on a TRD exhaust I bought off someone on TW. I would have brought the truck to him in the first place for the U Joints but wanted Toyota to check and make sure nothing else was wrong. I had no intention of having the dealership do this job.

 

And a vise

 

Finally, got my drive shaft back from my buddy. He had a heck of a time separating the center Yoke from the shaft to remove the carrier bearing. He used a combination of a bearing separator (clamped around the shaft) and a brass punch. He almost broke his bearing separator. He then cleaned up the splines and got it all lubed up for when I need to replace my carrier bearing in the future.

 

On a whim I went to see my neighbor today. He owns a high performance Porsche garage. Spoke to him about the truck. He got online and said he’d get me the entire driveshaft with carrier bearing for ~$500. Then he offered to help me put it on ...for a six-pack.

Sure pays to be neighborly!

 

Amazon also lists a Spicer 5 - 213x which one do I get for a 2011 TRD Prerunner?
Edit : Correction the Spicer websight list this number.

 

Hey all....... I have 3 u joints on my 2 wheel drive 2006 sr5 v6 quad cab long bed Tacoma...... I have the CB part number and figured I should just replace the ujoints as well.... but I need to confirm the correct part number for the three u joints.... are the u joints all the same?
DANA

$31 513301X Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

513301X for 2 wheel drive and all 3 u joints?
Toyota OEM is 0437104030?.....

 

Yes I think all 3 are the same

 

I've a 2007 2WD BASE and I think my U-joint(s) are causing the vibrations. The fellow at AutoZone connected that sensor and said there were NO CODES of any sort. So I asked him if they sold U-joints for my truck - curious to see if they looked like the ones I'd replaced on my vehicles when I was much younger. Not a problem, they offered several brands from about $18 to $40 each and, if I understood the diagram, I'd need one for teh rear and one for the tranny end to complete the job.

But, since I've only got 82K on the clock and never hear about a recall or TSB, I thought to ask here "What's up with that?" And possibly have Toyota do it for free.

Anyone have details on the TSB or Recall related to U-Joint Replacement?

 

Driveline shop about $350 using Spicer greasable joints and new carrier bearing plus balancing.

 

Turns out I don't know which U-joints he installed in my truck. I went to the NAPA page for Flowers Auto Parts and found a list of a ten U-joints all of which were stated to fit my Toyota and all of which were labeled as "Spicer 1330" U-joints four of which were stated to be "exact fit." All were different in appearance and two had grease fittings (in body or in a bearing cover).

2007 Toyota Tacoma
Exact Fit Guaranteed to fit your vehicle
Universal Joint (U-Joint) - Front Driveshaft at Front Axle
Part #: NPJ P354 $16.29
Universal Joint (U-Joint) Spicer 1330
Part #: UJS UJ354 $23.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint) - Front Driveshaft at Front Axle
Part #: NPJ P270$24.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint) - Front Driveshaft at Front Axle
Part #: NPJ P254 $29.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint) Spicer 1330
Part #: UJS UJ354C $32.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint) Spicer 1330
Part #: UJS UJ254 $33.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint) Spicer 1330
Part #: UJS UJ270 $34.99
Universal Joint (U-Joint)
Part #: TWD 5213X $38.99
U-Joint
Part #: ATM 0600705 $42.99
U-Joint
Part #: NOE 66620651 $47.99
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=Universal Joint&referer=v2

So, is SPICER a GENERIC TERM? Not a Brand?