Ontario BS Thread

Yep, China does this everyday with things people work hard to create.

I think I wont rip this guy off for his idea. It is his idea, and work.

 

For situations like this where the shipping costs almost as much as the product, it makes sense to fabricate locally when possible. Also keeps our canuckistan pesos within the country, for what it's worth.

For the DCSB version, 48"x15". If you were to make them yourself, go longer (maybe 54") to get coverage on the rear edge of the fuel tank. Where do you buy UHMW sheets? Fastenal has them but is special order and dropshipped from the mfr.

 

You might try and rationalize it like this, but come on.. He made it, you are coping it, its theft straight up.

Do not copy exactly what someone else has already made, and try to make it like you are the one doing the right thing. Please that shit chaps my ass.

 

It just looks like something easy to make. Not sure if I'd every do it though. I found this, https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/SHEET,UHMW,BLACK,1-4-IN-T,48X96-IN/p/WWG2NHY2 . And there is a place in TO called Plastic World that should have it. It's used for side x side skid plates so I wonder if it could be used for a full set of Tacoma skid plates.

 

SMKYTXN started selling the tank skid more than 5 years ago. How long of an exclusivity is he supposed to get, by your standards? The idea of polyethylene skids isn't new either. Here's a monster 2nd gen with them 8 years ago: https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/project-jailbreak.1038804/page-10 The only innovation from SMKYTXN is the nylon strap mounting system, which I probably won't be using.

 

I wouldn't use it anywhere else unless it's supported by a tubular frame like on that Pirate4x4 build, which entails more custom fab work and a loss of ground clearance (noticeable if you aren't on 40" tires lol). The material you linked (made from recycled plastic) is 4.5 ksi. More expensive virgin material is stronger 5.8 ksi. Yet that is only 14% the strength of basic 5000-series aluminum.

 

Just looking at the Pirate 4x4 site. Lots of info on working with UHMW there! Interesting. I do like that it's lighter than Aluminum and slippery. Would be neat to do some projects with it.

 

This is not new. People have been using this material for skids for awhile.

 

This is where i lose my mind


MAKE IT STOP! PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD MAKE THE MODIFICATION IDEAS STOP.

I'm considering doing this with the 6 switch version upfitter switches from the F250 super duty and install it into the overhead console.



before anyone bitches

"Go GeT a SwItCh PrO"


These switches are hella nice... go to a dealer and try them for yourself (also i hate switch pros and i prefer physical switches and buttons because it's cooler)
also look; this guy from 2017 wants to do the same thing i did! I'll be doing the community a service!
This is the guide that gave me the idea; http://xplrcreate.com/2020/02/24/f150-diy-aux-upfitter-switches/

Motorcraft makes the switches for the F250 known as the SW7718 or the Ford Part No.: HC3Z-13D730-AA for a frame of reference.

Right now, i've taken some of my own measurements and i *think* it will work by having it offset in some way. Dimensionally (length 132.1mm by width 31.4mm from the site above) the switches would fit into the center and passenger side covers (see the red block image below for a ballpark of where i'd put it for now) But i'm not sure how much room we have behind the console for height as i'm not sure how deep the assembly goes. I've spent the last day or two trying to figure out a way to mount the switches into the overhead implying the depth of the assembly is ok. I figured to 3d print a part that it would slot into, a easier said than done task as i have no idea how to actually do 3d modeling or how to edit 3d models either.



The community has the models for regular switches available. I know Meso has the covers for it ($40 but no longer available so it seems) [https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/custom-overhead-6-switch-panel.522712/] and Tacitos page for his [https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...anels-updated-6-26-2017-now-availalbe.473810/]

But for the cost of the panel and to hack it up to see if it works is a bit of a stretch... so i hunted down the 3d printed files that might help.

This [https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3d-tacoma-parts-thread.570671/] has 3D models of the center-bit and i found the passenger side cover.

Middle cover; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3139461
Passenger side; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165548 (this model seems a little small when i aligned the two together, i'm not sure how to correctly check)

If someone could come up with a 3d model that would fit the 132.1mm by 31.4mm hole from the 6 point switch, i would love to give it a shot (i'll just JB weld them into place as i cannot expect someone to know where the clip placements are.
it's either that or be able to 3D print the center flat piece (i can't find the OEM part number for this part so i can't just call Toyota for it)

But before any of that Since i had the TRD off road, my issue currently is that i cannot figure out where to place the 2 OEM switches i have currently (Traction control and locking rear diff buttons). If i leave the traction control button it it's place and remove the middle and passenger side cover, i do not have any room or idea where to place the rear diff-lock switch and i do happen to use it often. Rotating the two switches sideways and stuffing them side by side doesn't seem like they will fit nicely (width of the switches is about 23.4mm (so 46.8mm for the 2) so i'm cutting into plastic that i don't want to cut into). Another option is taking the upfitter switches and placing them in between something like this but doing the math, there isn't much room side to side left (something tiny like 0.5mm)



and this is where my brain spiraled into insanity.







( i think i need someone with 3D modeling skills as well as patience to make a hole int

 

I tossed ya a like...didnt (couldnt) read it all...not my gig but im 100% behind you in this endeavor! GO MAN!

 

hey man i might be in on helping. can you round up the pin out for the aux switch setup and maybe was can use a cali raised gang of 8 fuse box. i have a 3d printer at my disposal and can help with the modeling.

 

i appreciate the sentiment, thanks bud

MY PRAYERS HAVE BEEN ANSWERED!

Dude thank you for your offer to help - it's really cool of you if you're able to assist with this little idea of mine

The pin out seems to be 12 pins on this particular switch, so it's actually easy to solder wires directly to them if i absolutely need to.

As to which pin does what - i have absolutely no idea other than the positive seem to light up a yellow LED within the switch on the "ON" mode but i'm not 100% sure, since i forgot to check, if it glows blue in the "off" position.

EDIT: Pin out

• Switch 1 – Pin 4 – Yellow
• Switch 2 – Pin 6 – Green/Brown
• Switch 3 – Pin 10 – Violet/Green
• Switch 4 – Pin 9 – Brown
• Switch 5 – Pin 8 – Blue/Orange
• Switch 6 – Pin 7 – Yellow/Orange
• Dimmer – Pin 12 – Violet/Grey
• Power for Switch 1-4 – Pin 11 – Green/Orange
• Power for Switch 5-6 – Pin 5 – Green/Red
• Ground for Switches – Pin 3 – Black (For switch back-light only)

I was planning on wiring them directly to a

$16 IZTOSS 12-Slot Fuse Relay Box [6 Relays] [6 Blade Fuses] with 12V 40A relays,fuses and Metallic Pins for Automotive and Marine Use

relay box set from Amazoom (i need to add in at least 2 more relays anyways so figured to reconfigure my setup for a auxiliary relay box) and have those relays go to my Blueseas fuse box for everything else
My current setup;

 

Is it actually slippery? In my mind the rocks could just dig in to the plastic and gouge it where steel (or aluminum for argument sake) would have less gouging effect. unless you where wheeling on smooth rocks.

 

See what happens when you DON'T do drugs!

IF it turns out that all the switches will be too wide for that area.... you could also mount them behind the overhead console,

Can't find the pic of the switchpro panel someone mounted up there, but basically between where the Tacoma letters are in this pic,
and the overhead console,
there is still a good bit of depth there where you can mount stuff....

 

I found these posts comparing aluminum to UHMW skid plates on SXS's same should apply on trucks if UHMW were to be used.
https://www.wildcatforums.net/threads/aluminum-vs-uhmw-skid-plates.21817/
https://dirtwheelsmag.com/how-to-choose-skid-plates/

 

Drugs!



I know exactly where you're talking about, I also considered this as an idea. It might be easier since i just need to cut the headliner and slot it i, but the difficult part is cutting the headliner and slotting the switches in. because "irreversible modification" or at least it's not cheap to replace the headliner or something if i fuck up (it's actually not even that - it's mostly that i have no idea how i'd mount the switches in that location without a lot of wobble.
I also considered the same idea but on the other side, closer to the window

 

Interesting
I could see it being pretty beneficial on a SxS since they have support on the whole underside
Idk about a truck though since i know our steel skids have to jump some pretty big gaps from support to support
I’m pretty against using alum for protection IMO but decent comparison

that being said i dont have much experience with plastic, more of a metal fan

 

@Shveet i finally decided to get around to playing heat again and i guess cross play is a thing now
I hope you didnt struggle with drifting as bad as i did at first

 

i still cannot drift to save my life
i cheesed the tutorial by sliding back and forth in hopes to never do drifting again
ran the Z for as long as i could



but recently took a liking to the skyline and because of this game i considered doing the Neo-chameleon headlight tint

 

Yeah i botched the tutorial bad too
Theres a really good youtube tutorial on how to setup your car and settings so its not such a disaster



noice ive been running the stang full time but keep the 180 set for drifting

if u wana run “low level” cars its all about the engine swaps