Part number for diode to prevent backfeed?

I am installing a Baja Designs S2 Pro light in my rear bumper as a backup light and scene light. It draws 1.7 Amps.

It will be fed from 3 sources:

1) it will come on with the reverse lights, which I will tap off the trailer harness
2) I will install a second switch above the switch I have for my Matt Gecko bed light kit, using the power wire for the kit
3) I will have a rocker switch in the cab

I will need 3 diodes in the harness I am building. Does anyone have a part number for a diode that is automotive-grade, which will survive the environment under the bed in Canada or northern NY state? I want to build this harness right the first time, and have it last the life of the truck. It should be rated for about 5 A at minimum.

 

^ That would work great. Does anyone sell a weatherproof holder for it that I can put inline, in the harness?

 

https://catalog.waytekwire.com/Waytek-2020-Catalog-232/46/

 

I love you.

 

I'm a little curious how you're going to use the diode. Do you have a schematic? I'm wondering if the diode voltage drop is going to be an issue.

 

My alternator runs at a slightly higher voltage than stock, which will compensate for the 0.7 V diode drop. On the AGM battery, voltage will be lower but it should still be pretty bright, it's 2450 lumens nominal.

 

Ah ok. Have you considered using the switch/diode setup to operate a relay, and then use the relay to switch the power to the lights?

 

Yeah that should work. I'd probably use relays, but you may be able to get away with it. I'm not sure how much extra current capacity you've got on that reverse light circuit.

 

2 On - On Switches...diodes as shown.

 

Verify if the Engine fuse box has the 10A BKUP LP No. 2 fuse.

 

I thought about the relay suggestion, seems like a better way to go. Can I just drill and tap a hole in a frame rail to mount relay?

Also, what connectors do the factory reverse lights use? I might as well make a proper harness that doesn't involve cutting into the factory one.

 

^ The switches I have are make-or-break. They do not switch between two contacts. The cab switch is of the CH4x4 pushbutton type.

But the idea of using an add a circuit in the factory fuse box under the hood is great. I already did that for my driving lights, the high beam signal provides power to the driving light switch in cab. I can use the combined diode/fuse part you gave above.