Overheating after new thermostat, water pump, and fan clutch

so after a 3 hour drive through the desert 100+ degrees outside. Temp gauge in the normal whole time. I get to a cooler place 65 degrees and within 10 minuof traffic the needle starts rising. Open the hood and there’s dried pink coolant everywhere. I cannot find where it’s coming from though

8/14 update - replaced the water pump, thermostat, and fan clutch all oem parts. Put in new Toyota coolant from the dealership. Still overheating

8/15 update - did a cylinder compression test cylinders 1-5 stayed In the 150-170 range
Cylinder 6 was 190

 

Let it run and get to operating temperature with the hood open, see if you can spot a leak. Watch the bottom of the truck and see if anything is dripping and look around all the hoses

 

I’m letting it idle right now, keep checking it but not overheating and can’t find any leaks. Decides to be good when I’m trying to find the problem

 

Is the reservoir full?

 

Its possible that if you drove through the desert at high rate of speed the radiator started overheating but didnt fully overheat due to the air moving through the radiator at high speed but once you slowed down in traffic the fan alone wasn't enough to cool it down. The fluid you see could be from the radiator cap. There's a pressure release valve on your radiator cap that goes off if it gets too hot and pressure builds up which will shoot out fluid

 

Well, thought about replacing things like the fan clutch, water pump, and all that nonsense. Instead got one of those combustion leak test kits. Changed the test liquid color from blue to a yellow/green. Not looking so hot

 

Coolant can come from the cap as well. My guess is your fan is gone. At freeway speed, it’s not really doing anything. Traffic, however. Either that or possibly a clogged radiator. I had that with my mustang. Found that out after I replaced the fan clutch on it. But depending on how it’s maintained and mileage, it could be ruled out pretty easily

 

Well that sucks... 32" Hg worth! Sorry dude.

 

Just my luck haha

 

I’ve been looking at YouTube videos of bad fan clutches, on these trucks it’s bad if you can spin the fan by hand with no resistance right?

 

You will will always be able to spin it by hand, but it should give you some good resistance.

give me a second. Like you, I had an M3 and my clutch went bad. Let me see if I can find the video I used

 

Here, I used this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fqnvOYwfxbU

if your radiator fluid has been changed regularly, try this.....probably more likely than a clogged radiator. The one I had clogged (mustang) I am pretty sure it had never been changed and it was at 200k when I got the car

 

Check the rad cap and the weep hole of your water pump for leaks.

If you had a boil over, albeit a slow boil over, rad cap could be done.

My water pump decided to give up the ghost on me while I was driving to Barstow from Havasu in the middle of summer. 113F outside. Truck overheated and got to 241F. Pulled over right away and shut it down. Use a case of bottled water to top off before limping into Barstow for more water.

Mechanic said water pump failed, and the boil over caused the rad cap to go bad too. Fan flung coolant everywhere.

 

radiator cap is a cheap and easy swap as well

 

Guess I’ll test the fan clutch tomorrow as a start and go from there

 

take a look at it too. If there is a crap ton of oil on it, chances are it’s probably gone. The one on my M3 was black

 

I’ll do the combustion leak test again too, this time in sunlight and not just with a flashlight then post pictures to see what y’all think

 

time to test

 

Drummmmmmmmmm Rollllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.......................