Show off your 3D printed parts

I adjusted it in the settings on the machine.

https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

 

Can I ask, what is the reasoning behind the little toggle thing next to the shifter? Do you have a problem with your shifter getting bumped out of drive?

 

4th gear lock out. Especially helpful when others drive your truck.

 

FINALLY got my printer working okay with PETG, and started the first real part. 11 hours into a 12 hour print and... boom, power went out. Whole neighborhood is dark.

Just wanted to complain somewhere.

Anyway, thanks to everyone for the suggestions, they helped me get it tuned in.

ETA: Looks like my first 3d printer upgrade will be a UPS. Serves me right for living in a third-world communist shithole. This is the second blackout this week, and we've had an additional handful of momentary blips.

Update 2: the print resume feature on my printer totally failed it homed, heated, got my hopes up, then crashed directly into the part at maximum speed.

Update 3: and trashed my nozzle.

Update 3.5: Nope just clogged...

Update 4: but I don't have enough filament to finish the project now.

Update 5: also gouged the buildplate by trying to restart the part without re-leveling. Apparently, you should relevel after a crash!

Update 6: my garage lizard just ate a gigantic spider, it was awesome. No longer upset about my printing woes, even slightly.

Update 7: sorry now I'm really off topic, but for scale, that lizard is about 12" long, tail to nose.


Final update: printing again and headed back to bed! Thanks for tuning in to my rant.

 

The joys of 3d printing...

 

Flip the file so it puts the backside down and use supports. The cleanup will be at the back of the object and never be seen.

 

Mine did the exact same thing with less than an hour to go on a 6hr job. It took the print out like a bull dozer through a China shop.

That is fricken AWESOME!

 

12 hours in on a 55 hour print, and it's already warped so there is very little contact left with the build plate. Think it'll hold?

 

Do you have a glass bed?

 

Printed off a BlueSea fuse block/relay/breaker switch holder- credit to Johnny1019 for file! Came out pretty good- might still paint it though..

 

Nope it's the stock ender3pro magnetic mat thing. I did some smaller test runs with blue tape and purple glue sticks before determining that the bare surface worked best. But this is my first big print with it, and the first to warp so drastically as to delaminate from the plate. I guess I'll switch to glass in the future!

Thirty-some hours to go...

 

Go duck tape that shit to the bed right now, it's your only chance!
Try turning your filament temp down a little too - it's the heat differential that makes it warp as it cools so printing at lower temp helps and conversely raising the bed temp stops it cooling so fast. I'm running my ender at 200°/65° on a glass bed and it seems to hold petty good.

 

I've made like a dozen posts on this thread without showing off any 3D printed parts... so here's my first project:



It's an electrical subpanel for my truck's bedside. I have a set of decked drawers that block off access to the bed cubbies -- where I had previously installed a 12V power outlet and a switch panel for such things as the bed lights and my on board water pump. So my plan is to install this recessed panel in my upper bedside. It fits just barely between the bedside and the sheet metal, and will house all the switches and circuit breakers I could possibly want back there (hopefully), and keep everything dry and safe from road spray (it's just above and behind my rear wheel). It was originally designed as a two-piece assembly -- but that was back when I had access to larger printers at work, in the Before Times. Now that I'm printing on my own entry-level printer, the part is too big to print in the most logical orientation. So now it's a 3-piece assembly, sliced in a different direction. I can't believe how much time I wasted on pointless remedial CAD work to prepare it for printing in the new orientation.



All those holes in the bottom are knock outs for various cord grips or grommets, so that future me can wire it up however he pleases, if and when he ever gets around to it.



Here's a test fit of the base piece with the endcap and a half-inch slice of the main part. I didn't get the clearances quite right, but after a few minutes of whittling with ol' stabby, it fits together perfectly. I'm sure this looks pretty terrible to 3D printing experts, but it's close enough for me!



Just hope the main part prints successfully now!

 

Good idea, I wish I had thought of that yesterday morning when I took the first picture. I'm afraid it's too far along to risk messing with it now.

Last night I put a space heater nearby, and an IP camera, and I'm hoping for the best. If I even open the garage door to try fixing it now, it'll drop the air temperature by 20 or 30 degrees (F).

Here's the live view. Also shown to the left is my backup plan, should the print fail:

 

That's awesome!

Here I am drawing a fishing rod holder for the bed rails

 

This is a 55 hour print?? What layer height are you printing at? I printed a HUGE vase that took up almost the entire print area on my delta style printer and it was only like 18 hours.. I printed the BlueSea holder thing I posted earlier in less than 4 hours and that was pretty high resolution.

 

That's a good point... I really have no experience running a 3D printer.

I'm using 0.2mm layer height at 80 mm/s, sliced in Cura. Is that ridiculously slow?

I think the biggest factor is that there's a lot of surface area, because this part is a hollow shell with lots of small features, and I have the wall thickness set to 4 lines. And Cura prints the walls at half speed. The whole print is about 600 grams, including supports.

80 mm/s is looking increasingly sketchy as the part gets taller... pretty wobbly. Not sure if it's because the part is loose on the bed, or maybe the bed itself is wobbly. But it's still printing!

Nice fuseholder panel! What material did you use? I'd like to try printing some things for my engine bay, but am weary about the high temperatures.

 

Looks like you're almost out of backup plan!

 

.2 is usually considered "standard" resolution assuming you are running a .4 nozzle. 4 outlines\exterior walls is more than I use- I go between 2 and 3 and just adjust the infill % when choosing the density of a part to print.

80mm/s is not super slow- depending on the printer of course.

My suggestion for better bed adhesion would be messing with your z-height, I am assuming the printer doesn't have auto bed leveling right? You could also ditch the magnetic textured bed that came with the printer and go with a glass bed and use either glue stick or even hairspray works great. Usually adhesion issues are caused by these few things- poor printer bed leveling, incorrect print temps or incorrect first layer settings(known as "squish").

Speed-wise, try a different slicer, I learned on MatterControl. It is really easy to use and allows a ton of tweaking(and its free).. I currently use Simplify3d, out of all the slicers I have used, S3D seems to be the most efficient and usually prints faster than Cura.

The fuse holder is printed in PLA, just to make sure it fits and looks how I want. It is currently printing in PETG, BUT I can tell you I have PLA 3D printed parts in my engine bay on my old Tacoma and have never had any issues with warping and heat damage.. and it gets hot as hell in there out in the desert.

 

just joining the club as an owner now. finishing test print and on to bigger and better things worth posting about. My 4 year old expects to wake up and make toys on our "machine" tomorrow.