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Rotor Question(s)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Kbstall, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:22 AM
    #1
    Kbstall

    Kbstall [OP] Active Member

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    Greetings,
    Looking at getting new rotors and brakes soon maybe calibers too. I’ve been reading and researching a little. Currently I look to have have stock, original equipment. Truck is new to me, only owned for a couple of weeks. My opinion at this time is that the “slotted and drilled” rotors may hold contaminates and debris that could damage brakes and rotors over time. I’m looking for great stopping, longevity and reliability, if those can be combined. I do not do much off roading unless it floods in S.E. Texas. Any opinions. Does anybody have rotor/brake/caliber combinations they think may fit my criteria?

    Appreciate your time.

    Regards,

    Kevin
     
  2. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:39 AM
    #2
    Tarheel22

    Tarheel22 Well-Known Member

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    none yet
    I'd stick with the oem pads and for rotors any decent coated rotor would be fine. Centric is a good rotor. Texas is flat so unless you plan on driving to mountains or heavy towing you shouldn't need any additional braking performance beyond stock.
     
  3. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:47 AM
    #3
    EZTacoma

    EZTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Napa has really good stuff. My father in law mechanic always uses Napa when he does brakes. I would get the top grade or second to top grade rotors from them, and Napa or OEM pads.
     
  4. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:54 AM
    #4
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    Who told you Texas was flat? Boy were they wrong. Ok @Kbstall I've seen EBC green stuff pads n rotors work great for these trucks. You can also get oem rotors with TRD pads to work great as well.
     
  5. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:59 AM
    #5
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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  6. Jul 25, 2020 at 8:11 AM
    #6
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    I think the key in rotors is mass. You need mass to dissipate the heat generated from braking. With that in mind, I'm probably on the fence with slotted rotors, but there is no way I would buy "cheap" drilled rotors. Why you might ask? Because drilled rotors will develop cracks between the drilled holes after multiple "heat cycles" of heavy braking. The only way to avoid that is to buy "high end" rotors like you find on Porsches, but those are far more expensive than OEM.

    Generally speaking, I recommend going with OEM rotors. OEM or TRD pads are also good. You can play around with different pads, but do your research first on noise, dust, etc. There are great pads out there from companies like Hawk and EBC that are just as good or better than OEM. If you go with a set of pads like those, make sure you do NOT buy "track pads." Those may need heat before getting up to normal operating temperatures, so you might have an accident if you have to slam on the brakes before they warm up. Street and track are OK.

    If you need new calipers, then buy a set of rebuilt calipers. You can get those at your local auto parts store.

    If you're going to do your brakes, I recommend you also invest in a Motive pressurized brake bleeding system. It's less than $100, and will pay for itself many times over.

    Remember brakes are easy to change/upgrade. Just follow the steps and properly torque the caliper bolts when you reattach them.

    Have fun and enjoy this job! I do ALL of my brake work on every vehicle. I never let anyone else touch my brakes.
     
    DR_CA68 likes this.
  7. Jul 25, 2020 at 8:50 AM
    #7
    BlkDakDave

    BlkDakDave Well-Known Member

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    David
    CC TX
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    I had drilled and slotted on my Dakota when I turned the truck over to my youngest son. He managed to crack one of the rotors and I was told that drilled rotors have a tendency to do that when driving a hot rotor through water. I could see him doing that just for fun. Looking at both rotors, you could see cracks coming from each of the drilled holes. Maybe they've changed the way they're drilled or manufactered now, but because of that I bought a set of Stop Tech rotors and Power Stop pads. I went with slotted and extreme pads because when I'm loaded up with camping gear pulling a trailer with dirt bikes and driving over the hills and mountains here in TEXAS, I wanted to make sure I have good brakes.

    For those of you who think Texas is flat, everyone wears a cowboy hat and rides a horse. Yes, Texas has hills and mountains. We have, the Davis Mountains 5,000 to 6,000 feet, Guadalupe Mountains 8,700 ft, Big Bend National and State Park 1,800 to 7,800 ft. Then Central Texas, East Texas (rolliing hils) and of course The "Texas Hill Country." Oh, we also have the second largest canyon in the US, the first being the Grand Canyon.
     
    Tarheel22 likes this.

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