What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yep, makes sense, I think we're on the same page with all that and of course I knew about Fox/ADS length differences (for a similar travel distance) from my research as well. But, a Fox 8" shock would be about the same length as an ADS 10", I think.

I meant something different with my question to Matt than I think you took away - probably a side effect of written communication and comprehension being poor in general. I was just asking about his setup (available travel - 10" or 8") and trying to explain why I was asking (i.e. b/c I wondered if he'd want more uptravel, and relating that I'd found that I did want more uptravel.)

Dude, you might get shit from other folks, but I've never given you any. I asked a reasonable question about your install (given that I had issues with mine) and gave some background on why I asked it (given my experience). You are welcome to install how you want - it's your truck. But, don't be a dick to me just because other folks might be a dick to you and they happen to be buddies I go on trips with.

OK, so that out of the way, a few things:

• Yeah, I get the wait time being an issue; bummer to hear that you didn't get your first choice. I'd love to hear how you like the Foxes over time and how this setup works out for you.
• I'm surprised that 1.75" of uptravel will be enough for you, but if it is and you have it, great. Sounds like you're maxing out the shock travel because you have a lot of droop, so I understand conceptually how you got where you are. I also think that if you do more slow crawling and flexing, that could probably work out just fine.
• It's actually quite similar to where I was when I first relocated my rears; though I think I only had 1" of uptravel (vs. your 3.5") once I was loaded up, hahahaha. For me, it was enough (barely) on pavement, but not on the trail obviously.
• I'm curious why you don't want to move the lower mounts down - is it because of hitting rocks, or something else?

Huh?

(nvmnd, read the rest of the thread; will check those out. Got these on Amazon, so can always return)

 

@Blackdawg - tell me why these Strongflex are better than the Whitelines?

• Will they last longer?
• Are they "theoretically" better?
• Do you know anyone running them?

I read the description on their site, but to me it just sounds like a bunch of marketing boo. They cost 2x what I paid for the Whitelines.

Edit: I should add that I was already hesitant to get the Whitelines b/c I feel like my 20 year old OEM rubber ones have lasted quite a while - longer than the Whitelines will... But I got the Whitelines just to give them a try. Because you know, TW says they are good, hahahaha.

 

IIRC it’s beneficial to get rid of the metal outer sleeve because they eventually end up just like the OEM ones and bind.

 

That aint wheelin

What is this conform you speak of mr straight axle?

 

No clue on if they last longer. Haven't tried them yet.

But they will be way easier to install and replace. I think it's a better design over all. They are more expensive but I think they will last better. Brett's haven't done great(he has white lines).

I'll be curious to see what condition Mike's will be in.

And I've only seen 4runner guys run them. Good reviews though.

 

Spoken like a true hero who doesn't understand shock valving..

Oh STFU man.

This dude literally did the most universally accepted way to relocated rear shocks on a Tacoma. He didn't reinvent sliced bread here. If anything he copied every other person who has done this task.

So god forbid when two guys who have done this and also documented it well for others to share( @Speedytech7 has a full write up thread on this @turbodb writes up everything he does) to help it's considered some sort of cult club that is the only way to do it? Lol pull you head out of your ass.

Plus both these dudes did this...and did it just how he did it, not centering the shock in the travel correctly and paid the price. They both had to go back and redo it to stop bottoming out all the time. Guess what, they documented their fuck up too!

That's called giving advice based on experience. Not getting mad at not doing it "the only way". I'd think you of all people would know that there is in fact a correct way to place shocks in a suspension system.

Idk who pissed in your Cheerios the last year or so and made you gurgle them. But you really went from a cool dude that gave out cool advice and did cool shit to just being a piss poor example of a contributing member of any kind most the time. Which sucks. I miss the old malburg.

 

On a more relevant note..I finally finished my coil buckets. Fuckers will never break now.....frame might I guess.

 

frame breaks? dont worry about it i have spares.

 

Glad to see I hit a nerve. Nothing’s changed. I just wised up to a lot of things that get posted on here. You should try taking some of this “tech” and posting on irate4x4 (since pirate is dead).

I used to feed off some of the things in this thread and legitimately tried to help people (did same exact install with 12 in shocks years ago and I was called a clown and it would never work and now it’s the normal no pioneer here. People did it way before me) or when people used a round tube across the top of frame to mount the upper mount, I suggested fish plates tieing the exposed open tube ends to the frame and everyone told me it was overbuilt. Someone who does “write ups” does it and now if you don’t, your considered wrong.

these people on this form literally look at you like the Tacoma god. (Which don’t get me wrong. You know a lot and I credit some things from you frequently in my build). Butttt. These people believe they need 35s, lt and 5.29s to wheel dirt roads but fail to see the need for lockers and better gear reduction. People are feeding off this “overland” thing.

people where just having a dick measuring contest on cell phone service camp sites a few pages sight... quite sipping the coolaide and take a step back and see what people actually post.

And I’m not implying that everyone needs a solid axle and 39s because you don’t. You can probably do most shit with a skinny 34, lockers and crawl box if a manual or gears if automatic. Guys who daily drive their truck are buying 3-400 dollar batteries. Cool not my money but you don’t have it, you almost get ridiculed in this thread.


all I’m saying is there used to be legit tech in this thread and forum in general but now it’s just how everything the average joe does is wrong and how you few gods do is the only way. And this forum is no different than the books of faces or land of the gram. Everyone says you need 40s and tons to wheel yet Toyota truggy and even full body guys like me have been wheeling Toyota axles and 40s and evening 42s for years with no issues. Jeeps and Tacoma’s are the harleys of the early 2000s.


And I still offer great tech. Go look at my posts in the sas side or my build which I have been told is frowned upon because I didn’t do it to everyone’s standards. Besides a few others, I have a pretty dang good documented sas build and the multiple phases it’s gone through and what I’ve learned that works and doesn’t work. I’ve said what I’d do different and how. But whatever I’ll go back to lurking and posting the pictures that make me feel all fuzzy inside.

 

Here’s a picture to hurt some more feelings
And a picture from way back when it was normal

 

Pictures of the carnage that prompted the reinforcement?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/so-you-push-your-1st-gen-offroad-what-cracks-next.631359/

 

Wasn't on his truck, but this happened to Mike @Digiratus when we were in Colorado last year:

​

Nice. Save those templates for me . I don't want to make any right now but who knows in the future.

 

Shit dude. No body listens to anything I say anymore lol and I don't even post all that much. Especially my friends. They above all would rather tell me fuck off and do it differently or tell me I wrong hahahaha that's how it goes.

I don't know who these so called God's are you speak of but I'll let you know when I find one.

I don't know why it matters if one dude runs a $400 battery and another runs an $80. Their choice third money their truck

I'd agree that there is a large number of people that think they need mods XYZ to even leave the pavement of which I am a huge hater of. I don't think you need more than 33s lockers and skids to go pretty much anywhere most people would ever want to go. That said, bigger tires ride nicer so I also like those.

Tw has never been the place for tech and info anyways. There is plenty of good shit here but it's under mountains of regurgitated BS. So...not sure what's so surprising there.


But whatever. I don't have much else to say on this subject anymore.

Ha be lucky if they survive. Was a pita project. Man I miss having a plasma cutter. Took a lot of adjustment too. And honestly the best way to do it is to pull the engine probably. But they are solid enough just not as good looking as I like.

Ha good.

 

Alright everybody let’s put or dicks and tape measures away. Everybody’s spent a lot of time, money and energy on their rigs and at the end of the day none of our trucks will measure up to this guy anyway so it’s a moot point:

 

If those headers are functional, all is forgiven.

 

I’m trying to figure out the 4 holes in the lower part of the bed, next mod moar snorkels?

 

Functions as weight reduction and side splitter bro.

 

interesting take on the gussets for the towers. I like it.

 

Not to keep dwelling on this but this statement here makes you look like a clown. My truck rides a million times worse on 39s than it did on 37s. Does it crawl better and I hang up on stuff less? Yes. Would the truck ride better overall if I took the time to put together better leaf packs front and rear and spent some money and time tuning shocks? Of course.

Your literally telling people (and have been since you went to 35s)that by putting bigger tires on they’re truck will ride better when that has next to nothing to do with it. Load rating of tires. Coil spring weight. Weight of crap in/on vehicle. Shock valving. Leaf spring thickness and number of leaves and arch to them. Air pressure. These are the things that affect the ride.

I could go on and on and bring in desert racing cars and everything else but I’ll leave it at this and move on.