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2nd Gen Won't Start After Body Lift/Brake Job

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by RALFE, Jul 16, 2020.

  1. Jul 16, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #1
    RALFE

    RALFE [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2020
    Member:
    #317966
    Messages:
    10
    Gender:
    Male
    San Angelo, TX
    Vehicle:
    2009 BSP DCLB Sport
    SCS F5 17x9.0; 285/70KO2s Toytec Boss Lift
    Story: I had replaced/upgraded the front brakes on my 2009 Tacoma with new 13WHs and rotors as well as replaced the drums, hardware, and pads. Then I found out my brake booster was bad so I replaced that and added a new master cylinder for good measure. I also did the Toytec 1" body lift at the same time I replaced the cab mount bushings.

    Symptoms: The electrical system and all of the fuses work. Ignition fuses are fine, but when I go to turn the key, the starter does not engage at all. All connections to the starter are still connected. The battery is fine and double checked with a multimeter.

    Diagnosis: I think that the body lift may have jarred something. I scanned the system, but only got SRS & ABS codes (none of which were significant). Now double checking starter. Any thoughts on the Neutral Safety Switch? Any thoughts at all?

    Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Really don't want to support my local stealership with my ignorance here.
     
  2. Jul 21, 2020 at 8:24 AM
    #2
    RALFE

    RALFE [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2020
    Member:
    #317966
    Messages:
    10
    Gender:
    Male
    San Angelo, TX
    Vehicle:
    2009 BSP DCLB Sport
    SCS F5 17x9.0; 285/70KO2s Toytec Boss Lift
    UPDATE:

    Bottom Line up Front: The starter is the culprit.

    I have checked all of the connections. Confirmed the neutral safety switch (NSS) is correctly aligned. NSS does send a signal to the relay as the relay clicks. Pulled the relay and tested it with a 9v battery and multimeter. Relay is good to go. Confirmed all ignition fuses are intact. Starter still does not engage. Is there anything else that I could be overlooking before I conclude that the starter is to blame here?
     
  3. Jul 21, 2020 at 5:29 PM
    #3
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Member:
    #243372
    Messages:
    7,773
    Deep South
    Herculiner Hootus
    Jumper 12V right to the starter motor and see if it spins. I'd give the starter a few good whacks with a hammer or wrench, sometimes that'll free it up or allow the armature to make better contact with the brushes. Also check the small connector on the starter is making good contact, you can jumper 12V to that connector and it should pull the plunger in and start the truck.
     
    tirediron likes this.
  4. Jul 21, 2020 at 6:49 PM
    #4
    RALFE

    RALFE [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2020
    Member:
    #317966
    Messages:
    10
    Gender:
    Male
    San Angelo, TX
    Vehicle:
    2009 BSP DCLB Sport
    SCS F5 17x9.0; 285/70KO2s Toytec Boss Lift
    Tapped the starter a few days ago with no luck. Jumped the starter and nothing. Good contact. Great spark show. Now to RockAuto and YouTube. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend.
     
    6 gearT444E[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jul 21, 2020 at 7:11 PM
    #5
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Member:
    #243372
    Messages:
    7,773
    Deep South
    Herculiner Hootus
    two bolts, easy job. Just need small hands and a contortionist to remove it between the manifold and engine block
     
  6. Jul 26, 2020 at 10:04 AM
    #6
    RALFE

    RALFE [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2020
    Member:
    #317966
    Messages:
    10
    Gender:
    Male
    San Angelo, TX
    Vehicle:
    2009 BSP DCLB Sport
    SCS F5 17x9.0; 285/70KO2s Toytec Boss Lift
    Truck runs; wasn't the starter. A likely aftermarket car alarm cut into the green/black ignition power cable under the dash came undone. I soldered it back together so this doesn't happen again.

    Because I had to replace the brake booster, I had to take the knee panel off. While under there, I had seen some various cable tie-ins and one piece of cabling got disconnected and I didn't think anything of it. After doing all of the above trouble shooting and thinking it was the stater really got me pissed off when the truck still wouldn't start after the replacement. I figured it had to be something with the mess of wires from the brake booster fix. I found two butt connectors with no connection and they both had the green/black cable sheath. I know a little enough that green lines typically signify power in Toyotas (or so it has proven for me thus far). I connected the circuit, turned the key, and abra-kadabra we have a running truck again! I soldered the connections to ensure this doesn't happen again.

    Lesson learned: You never know what the previous owner did to your precious truck.
     

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