Advice needed: various and sundry electrical mods

After a punishing 5 months of nonstop 60 hour workweeks, it looks like I'll finally be able to take a week off and get some stuff done on my truck. I plan on ordering everything I need in the next day or so, which means it should arrive right about when my time off starts. I'm reaching out here to make sure nothing is incorrect or missing. I have basically zero electrical experience, so don't hesitate pointing out obvious stuff that I haven't listed; it's almost certain that I don't know I'll need it.

Without further ado...

Replacement dash switches: I'm planning on replacing the OEM "VSC OFF" and "RSCA OFF" switches with some from CH4x4. Why, you ask? Well, mostly because I'm adding an ABS kill switch (for snow/loose terrain) and want all of the switches to match. Now, I'm pretty sure the VSC and RSCA switches should be momentary type (not on/off) since holding them down changes their function. I am also operating under the assumption that the OEM wiring will simply plug into the CH4x4 switch. Am I wrong?
CH4x4 switch: https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-custom-laser-etched-toyota-push-switches/
ABS kill switch mod: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4lo-trac-abs-kill-switch-why-why-not.257444/#post-6254094

Yellow wire mod switch: In true "wish I didn't buy a Sport" fashion, I'll be performing the yellow wire mod to enable traction control while in 4LO. I'm going to add a button to enable/disable it, since that's the only way to disable the flashing indicator (and keep my blood pressure down). CH4x4 makes custom small rectangular switches that go under the head unit in the center, which is where I plan to put the switch. These switches are only rated for 3A. Does anyone know how much amperage is flowing through this wire when engaged? I'd rather avoid adding a relay, since relays are devil magic.
CH4x4 small switch: https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-custom-laser-etched-toyota-small-push-switches/
Yellow wire mod: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4lo-trac-abs-kill-switch-why-why-not.257444/#post-6254361

Dash cam setup: Traffic is insane during the morning rush getting onto base. I'm planning on the Blackvue DR750S-2CH, a Power Magic Pro hardwire kit, and Add-a-Fuses to get it hooked up to power. I don't need ultra-high-resolution and I do want good performance while in parking mode, so it seems to be my best option. I'm planning on buying a SanDisk 256GB Max Endurance SD card as well, since it's rated for nearly 14 years (!) of continuous looping recording. Is there any reason I should go for a different dash cam or memory card?
DR750S-2CH: https://www.blackboxmycar.com/products/blackvue-dr750s-2ch
SanDisk SD card: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...r_256g_an6ia_max_endurance_microsd_256gb.html

USB charger for back seats: Nothing says "you suck and we hate you" like being relegated to the backseat for an extended trip. Not having a way to charge your phone is just adding insult to injury. I'm planning on installing a Blue Sea Systems 1016-BSS in the backside of my center console. I assume I'll have to get an Add-a-Fuse to run power to it. Is there anything else I'll need?
Blue Sea Systems 1016-BSS:

$19 Blue Sea Systems 1016 Dual USB Charger Socket, 12/24v 2.1a, Black

https://www.amazon.com/Below-Deck-Charging-Panel-Charger/dp/B0082CXEI8?th=1
Add-A-Fuse:

$11 Nilight - 50038R 10 Pack 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter with 5 Amp Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Set for Cars Trucks Boats,Blue, Red, Black, Orange

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-FH02-Circuit-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B07T8LRSH7?th=1

Jumper cables: I can't believe I've been without any for this long, so this is really just some long-overdue outfitting. I've heard some compelling arguments recommending a quality jump pack (like the Noco GB40) over jumper cables. What do you think?
Fancypants jumper cables:

Energizer Jumper Cables for Car Battery, Heavy Duty Automotive Booster Cables for Jump Starting Dead or Weak Batteries with Carrying Bag Included (25-Feet (1-Gauge))

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-1-Gauge-Jumper-Battery-Booster/dp/B017O8JZP6/
Noco GB40 jump pack:

$100 NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.0L Gasoline and 3.0L Diesel Engines, Gray

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-12...360243230601&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0

Grounding bolt ID: This isn't a purchase, of course. I'm just looking for the correct place to attach the "other" (black) wire while running these Add-a-Fuse things to the red wire. Is there some easy way to tell which bolts are for grounding and which are not?

Other stuff: Do I need to buy a voltmeter? A crimping tool? Some ancient religious texts, or whatever electricians use to make lightning do things? Totally open to suggestions. Items that prove useful more than once are preferred, of course.

Tagging @Benson X, @caribe makaira, @crashnburn80, and @EatSleepTacos. Gondor calls for aid.

 

I’d say get some wire strippers and pick up a kit of assorted wire connectors. Heat shrink tubes are fun too and they work with lighters.

 

My suggestion is to avoid replacing any factory switches at all. This is the kind of butchery that usually creates problems and looks bad when you go to sell.

I get the tractional control or ABS thing but probably should get a good quality switch (not the Chinese Amazon garbage) or use a relay.

It sounds based on your post that you are in over your head if you are doing electrical work and asking if you need a meter.

 

I was hoping that the CH4x4 switches would be plug-and-play replacements for the OEM switches. I am also under the impression that they're of decent quality. If either of those things are wrong, please let me know before I make an expensive mistake.

I'm well over my head if anything goes wrong. That could be said of pretty much anything vehicle-related, though. That's why I waited to tackle any of this stuff until I had a full week to figure it out.

 

Most of the switches Toyota uses on these trucks are supplying a ground.
Most aftermarket switch’s supply 12v. They probably won’t work in place of the factory switches.
@Muddinfun knows more about this, than I do.

 

This is exactly the sort of stuff I need to know. Good looking out, and definitely curious to hear @Muddinfun's input.

 

I fear giving electrical advice to someone who asks of they need a meter or crimpers. Don't cut your wiring up, this is asking for a ton of pain and suffering where it seems the only gain is having matching switches cosmetically.

 

I don’t have schematics that are new enough to show the systems you’re working with, but TnShooter is correct that many OEM switches complete the circuit to ground and the aftermarket switches are not compatible with those type of circuits. My advice is you shouldn’t be messing with those circuits just to make the switches cosmetically match.

 

Thanks for the honest advice. There is no way in hell I'll cut up my stock wiring. It's plug-and-play or bust.

Understood. Am I to assume that no one makes proper OEM-spec replacement switches, that function as you describe?

 

I’m not aware of any. Wiring switches to supply a ground is not the norm. Most people want to use a key switched power source to feed a switch, which then turns on a relay. That way, lights and things can only be turned on when the key is on. Wiring OEM switches to supply a ground is convenient when you have electronics doing the decision making.

 

I don't have the electrical chops to understand the specifics here, but I think I get the general idea. It looks like keeping my OEM switches is far and away the least risky option. In that case, I have a couple follow-on questions.

Who makes switches that most closely resemble the OEM parts? The only reason I was planning on swapping out my OEM switches was for looks. If I can accomplish the same aesthetic match while reducing the risk of complications, it's a win-win. The text on my switches glow a light greenish hue, if that helps.

Is it difficult or risky relocating switches to a different slot? I'll eventually replace the lower row of 3 switches entirely with a SwitchPro panel. That leaves the upper 3 switch row of slots as the only available location. I'd like to have all my off-road/adverse conditions switches located here, since it's a logical way to organize things. The 4LO TRAC "yellow wire mod" switch is the exception, which I'd like to keep in the center console.

If it helps, here's the switch setup I have in mind:

Left of steering wheel, upper row of 3 switches -
- VSC OFF
- ABS OFF
- RSCA OFF

Left of steering wheel, lower row of 3 switches -
- Replaced with SwitchPro 9100 panel, controlling the following:
--- Aux high beam LEDs enable/disable
--- Scene lights (L) on/off
--- Scene lights (R) on/off
--- Bed/cargo lights on/off
--- Fog lights enable/disable
--- Master 12V power on/off (manual control for 12V anytime mod)
--- AC bed outlet power on/off
--- Cell signal booster power on/off

Right of steering wheel in center console -
- 4LO TRAC switch

 

Get a fuse panel for under the hood. I've done a bunch of mods and now regret not doing this first. It keeps everything clean and safe.

 

From what SwitchPro told me, fuse panels aren't necessary for use with their product.

 

I think I found an answer to this one:
https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...toyota-oem-replacement-abs-off-new-green.html

Still not sure about this one. It's probably a dumb question, but I'd rather ask now than panic later.

 

I'm confused, switches open or close a circuit, it's the circuit that is connecting to ground or power. The switch couldn't care less only the amount of current and the pole configuration (single, dual pole, etc).

 

I don't understand it either. A quick search proves that it's a very real issue, though.

@TnShooter, @Slum Lord, @Muddinfun: apologies for not using the search function earlier. It looks like you guys field this question regularly.

I still have outstanding questions if anyone has input.

 

It has to do with the LEDs inside the switch. LEDs only flow in 1 direction. When you try to illuminate the switch with your running light circuit, things don’t work right if you’ve mixed things up.

 

Speaking of switch illumination... is there any way for the switch to illuminate when the circuit is open instead of closed? It wouldn't make much sense to have my ABS OFF light illuminated during normal (ABS enabled) operation.

 

There is no OEM ABS off switch so there can’t be an aftermarket OEM replacement for it.

As far as moving the switches, go for it. If the wires are too short, you need to extend them with proper solder and heat shrink connections.

 

Anything is possible with a relay.