Clapped out A.R.E. Z-Series rehab, paint + build thread / 2nd Gen AC

Obligatory current photo for those that want to skip a pic-heavy thread:



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So, an upcoming cross-country move had me contemplating the switch to cap from the tonneau cover I've been running on the truck since new. I initially thought I'd find something used and cheap for the move and sell it off once I was done with it, but once the project got finished and with the mental justification of future camping purposes I think it's something I'll keep on the truck long term.

Before pic, OBX:



With the boredom of a few weeks worth of quarantine downtime before the move the search for a cap began. After some initial research on the forums of what caps will fit which years, I started scouring tri-state Craigslist & FB listings. Mostly generic work-truck caps with a few decent but too off-color options. Found a guy on Marketplace only a few minutes away that was getting rid of an old 2006 regular cab fit Z-series in black for cheap money. I figured black on white would look fine and be at least useable for the move so I took a ride up to check it out.

Once I got there I realized used was definitely an understatement, the thing was clapped out - a smashed window replaced with glued plywood, various chips and gauges in the fiberglass, dead brake light, rear window shroud missing, ripped window vent screens. But, I was happy to find a cap that fit and the price was too good to pass up based off what the Z-series cost new (about the price of an actual vehicle). We swapped it onto my truck, the fit was nice, made a solid deal and I was on my way back home, still figuring I'd just toss it once I was done with it.




Home Depot window replacement:




As it's a RC cap on an AC truck there is a gap between cap and cab which many find offensive, however it's negligible to me:



Once I got home and gave it a proper inspection I realized I probably could have found a better candidate. At the very least, it needed new shock arms and a 3rd brake light. If I really wanted to go for it it needed a replacement right window, lock mechanism (fully corroded) and bottom rear window plastic shroud. A few days of debate and some additional FOMO marketplace searching had me kicking myself.

Various chips, nicks and scratches:




However, I'd rather fix something than give up on it, so not being one to turn down a good project and feeling confident I said screw it, might as well put some energy into it and clean it up. After adding up the cost of replacement parts and factoring in the $3-4k price of a brand new Z-series I figured the juice was worth the squeeze.

A trip up to my local A.R.E. dealer (shout out to Suburban Caps NJ) had the replacement parts ordered for about $700 total including some various rubber bump stops. The biggest kicker was $470 for the window which needed to be replaced in full as the glass is not replaceable on its own.

Then the wheels started turning. If I need to remove the whole window assembly, might as well take them all out for a deep clean + waterproofing, right?



Well hell, it's almost fully stripped at this point. Wonder how much a paint shop would charge to paint match? A few calls to local shops for quotes and a drop off at Maaco for a two day turnaround later I now had a Super White paint matched cap, complete with all the fiberglass issues fixed and filled. Total cost for repairs and paint: $600.




Now I was starting to really like the look. Why wasn't I ever a cap guy before?

Took the time to repaint all the window frames while waiting for the replacement window to come in and bedlined the roof rack rails:



Soldered and wired up the replacement LED brake light, smoked lens vs. original red which I dig:



Powerwashed and cleaned all the existing windows thoroughly to get rid of the 14 years of gunk. Once the replacement window came in I wasted no time getting them all back together. New weatherstripping seals around all the frames, waterproof silicone on the bolts and weatherstripping for the roof rack rails made it water tight with no leaks. Ordered and installed replacement locking mechanism off eBay for $50. Replaced left side's window vent screen.

As with all good build threads, I forgot to take pictures as the windows were going back in but all fit snug and looked great freshened up. The rear window was the biggest pain to align properly with the hydraulic arms but was able to get it sitting right after muscling around a bit.

Windows installed:



The finished product out in the wild:





All in including cap itself, paint, replacement parts, spray paints, weatherstripping etc. the wallet took a hit for about $1800 with an original ballpark budget of about $1500. Yes, I definitely could have found a cheaper, more runnable option. But, I now have the satisfaction of a basically new Z-series that I was able to rehab mostly myself.

After a few weeks with the cap I can say I'm definitely satisfied with looks as well as usage. Had to adjust the rear window rotary latches as had some issues with popping open while driving due to the steel cable being too tight. No leaks from what I can tell thanks to the cap’s style of sitting over the sides of the bed rather than sitting on top. Feels a bit more aerodynamic going down the highway but there is noticeable weight in the back so the MPG increase/decrease hasn't been noticeable. The added weight is probably the kicker for me to finally get around to lifting the truck after putting it off for so long. Plans for a sleeping/camping setup in the bed will commence once I'm settled in the new location.

One con is that I can no longer throw a ton of motorcycles and parts in the back which has already proved annoying. I'll likely figure out a hoist system to swap the cap on/off as needed.



Final photo, 4th of July in OBX:



Cheers and thanks for reading.

 

The P/O included a set of Yakima landing pads on the rails ($160 for a set of 4) so I got a set of new bars from Yakima and used but mint arms w/ keys off eBay. Mounted up:

 

Looking good! I ran into the same problem loading motorcycles on my old truck and soon to have the same issue with the new truck. I bought a cheap 4x8 trailer to haul motorcycles. Makes it easier to load since it's lower to the ground. Might be something to consider if you have the space.

 

Right on, that’s a likely scenario once I’m settled in the new city. A lot easier to load up solo too.

 

Spent the last week setting up a Rola basket for the roof rack. Contemplated a few used Yakima Load Warrior options on marketplace but ultimately went with the Rola for style, price & quickness of delivery.



Of course, I neglected to take pictures of the process but after reading about the Rola’s rust tendencies I took the precaution to give it a couple coats of bedliner, RTV around all welds and joints + bedline some more, silicone around all bolt holes & additional heat shrink the center connections under the rubber seals provided by Rola. Peeled off both front and rear stickers prior.




It sits quite tall on the bars which will probably bug me after a while but seems to be holding up nicely after some miles and a few heavy storms. We’ll see how it does cross-country.

 

Forgot to post, couple pics from sagging my way across the country a few months back:

 

Only took one desert trip on stock suspension for me to finally pull the trigger on a lift:



Went with a Dobinson's 3" kit - how she's sitting now: