Starting/Electrical Problem- Wizard input needed

Backstory- 2 years ago my stock battery died. Replaced it with AutoZone garbage. Couple months ago was having a dead battery if it sat over a few days(Thought maybe it was a parasitic drain) Realized the battery was warrantied and threw a new one in and my problems vanished. Today I jumped in and it was coughing would not turn over. Tried a few more times, nothing. Being in a rush I unplugged the negative for a min to see if I could get lucky. Hooked it back and It got really close to turning over. Attempt 2 it started and immediately died. 3rd time started no problem. Battery was running 13.5V, clean terminals. Totally different than the previous battery problems( Dead as a doornail). 2015 with 36k. Ive done a fair share of electrical but nothing recent(light bars, pods, 400W anytime, ect) Truck has never failed to turn over.... ever. Took it on a 1000 mile roadtrip this month no problem. Kind of at a loss. First instinct is starter? Thoughts guys? Could really use some guidance. Thank you!

 

When you say, “won’t turn over”. Do you mean the truck fails to crank period?
When you turn the key to start the truck, do you hear a noise at all? (from the starter)
13.5v is good, if the truck is running. What is the voltage truck OFF?
What’s the voltage while CRANKING? No less than 10v and closer to 11v is better.

If all the above check out?
You’ll need to check the actual starting circuit.
I’d start at starter relay, since it is easy to remove check.
Once removed you check the pins for voltage, and go from there.

Also, when the truck doesn’t want to start.
Is the Security Light flashing?
It’s the key light, mines next to the clock.


BTW, I not a wizard.
You’re probably looking for Jimmy or Muddin’
They know the art of this “wizardly” stuff better than I do.

 

More information needed.

In general this: ( not intended to be an exclusive list )

I turn the key and it loudly clicks repeatedly or turns the engine very slowly and quits. Dirty connection or weak battery.
I turn the key and hear a small click, then nothing. Starter solenoid has burned contacts. Needs a rebuild.
I turn the key and nothing happens, no clicks no lights etc... Dead battery or a Really bad connection.

 

Yes it is making noise. Sounds like its starting without actually starting all the way. If it gives me a hard time tomorrow I will check the voltage and security light.

When I had my first stint of issues it was # 3, click and nothing happens. I replaced the battery a couple months ago and now out of the blue its trying to start, but not finishing (not ticking). Kind of like when you try and fire up an old cold blooded quad for the fist time in the spring, it wants to start, but wont.

 

Your current problem is that the engine cranks, but never starts.
Correct?

But eventually it will start?

 

Yes. But only after I disconnected and reconnected the negative. Then it started the 3rd try. Went out twice tonight afterwards and its fired up both times no problems.

 

First and foremost, make sure the terminals are sparkling clean and tight. With your issue of not start or start then immediately dies, you need to have your fuel pressure checked to evaluate for a failing fuel pump.

 

Check your grounds as well. The starter grounds to the engine which has a wire eventually making it to the truck body/negative wire on the battery. I would suggest getting a friend to help and measuring the voltage at the starter motor terminal as you crank the engine.

 

Going to do a full wipedown on the terminals. In my years on TW I don't think I've even read a thread on checking your fuel pressure... is that DIY? Actually now that I think about it I don't think I've ever heard of a fuel pump issue on this forum. I'll need to read up on this issue more. Thanks

I do need to inspect the starter. I changed one out in an old yota back in high-school but I have never really tested and diagnosed one. I'll read up on this as well and update the thread tomorrow

 

I wish I could see it myself.

As I understand it is that you turn the key and the engine is rotating with the starter, but the engine isn't firing.

That could be a million or so things. I don't see why disconnecting the battery would effect any of them...

I'd go with TnShooter and say it could be the immobilizer system...

 

Ive seen where it clicks and wont start mentioned, and then i seen where it cranks but wont start until after you disconnect and reconnect the negative terminal .
Im a little confused here, op sounded like bad batt, new fixed but then problem returned, so lets start there, sorry......

If all your doing is messing with cables I'd start there, simple stuff usuially is the culprit.

I'd check voltage drop between negative post and negative cable, if ok, I'd then go negative post to engine block, if ok I'd then check negative terminal to body ground. If all else fails flex both battery cables feeling for rotten spot, soft spot, or anywhere you can stretch is bad news. Voltage and resistance can flow if path is present, however amperage cannot unless provided ample wire hence- possible starting issues while trying to crank or start both of which are high draw scenarios.
Just curious, when it wont stsrt does the check engine light prove out?

 

Well you have 5 "shade tree" opinions, here's mine......If the problem persists, get "professional" help.

 

Also add cleaning MAF sensor to the list of things you should try. Just don't use carb cleaner but MAF cleaner.

 

I do have a remote starter installed that gave me problems a few years back. Now that I think about it, I did use the remote as I was walking out which resulted in it not turning over. Im wondering if the negative terminal re connection killed the remote starter sequence so it was able to start afterwards. I dont even like it much anyways. Maybe I will uninstall and see if it comes back

No click was an issue a year ago that forced me to get a new battery, Now that I have my new battery it did the crank but wont start. Going to pull it in the garage and test all of recommendations tonight. I'm starting to think something is loose on the remote starter.

I know. I want to give it the good ole fashioned college try first. Alot of great advice in here that I want to explore until I've exhausted my options

Good idea. I just did a ton of 30k maint a few weeks back, and coincidentally enough this was the one item that got left off.




Update: it fired up 100% normal this morning. Going to try the remote starter after work and see if its the same result

 

FWIW.....A few years ago on 2015 Sport, I had Intermittent staring issues, if started every day, no problem. If after a couple of days...start, stop, then start and all is well. If left for three or four days, might not even turn over. Still under warranty, Toyota replaced the battery. A few months later, same problem. Drove me nuts. Finally took it to Toyota (out of warranty). The tech hooked it up to a "machine", and in 15 minutes informed me.....I had a blue tooth device plugged into the OBD port and it was creating a "variable" parasitic drain on the battery. I removed the device, problem FIXED. How did it know??? No problems since.

 

Wow, this is identical to the previous battery issues I was having. Thank you for this. Some of my remote starter wires are tapped behind the OBD too. I think Im going to remove it and see if any of my old/new issues persist