Dome lights won't turn off!

Hi Folks,

This thread has been super helpful in diagnosing a dome light problem. I recently bought a 2017 DCSB Pro and it had LED's installed, with all the issues described by others in this post (dome/map lights don't dim when on the door setting). I had the dealer diagnose the issue and they found a fault in the IC board inside the interior fuse block (Toyota part# 82730-04072). The entire part needs to be replaced so I ordered it and would like to avoid paying the dealer almost $500 to install it.

So here's my question(s) for the electrical wizards in the forum:

1. The part looks fairly straight forward to replace but getting to it under the drivers side kick panel could be a nightmare. Have any members replaced this part before? Any tips or advice?
2. I am assuming that the part is plug & play but there is a large chance that I'm dead wrong. Does anyone know if there needs to be any dealer programming for this part to 'recognize' the vehicle's anti-theft & other systems?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

Can you post pics of the board?

 

@bagleboy, I don't have the part in hand yet but from the notes on the dealer diagnostic, I think the board is embedded in the fuse block housing. The only way to check the board is to bust open the housing so I was told that I needed to order the whole block.

 

I ask out of curiosity about accessing the empty fuse slots but be that as it may my experience so far has been that the connectors used are unique to location so they can’t be mistakenly plugged into the wrong spot on a component. Typically there are only a few bolts holding things in place(10mm socket seems usual) so if you take pics at each stage it should be doable with the most difficultly coming from arranging the wire bundles as they were so it all goes back together. Disconnect your battery ground first. You’ll probably want to pull the kick panel as well as the lower dash panel on that side. Mine’s 2nd gen so I cant tell you how that process differs from yours. Pretty much all connectors have release tabs so be careful those are unlocked and avoid pulling on the wires themselves as much as possible. Look at the new block and take some pics of the old one in place from as many angles as necessary to see the connectors and study those pics a bit first. Assembly and repair manuals lay out the steps and without that you’ll want to create some familiarity first. Anytime I’ve done mods where photos were available in threads it was extremely helpful in getting prepared so be sure to document this for posterity.

 

Your dealership diagnosis may be correct however water infiltration into the cab is the more likely cause. Check the bare metal around the OBDII port for rust it’s a dead giveaway for water getting in the cab from above which is adjacent to the part you plan to replace see photo for clarity.

 

**Update - just spoke to the dealer and they mistakenly shared the wrong part number with me. The affected part is the Body ECU. @Ronzio, The original cause was almost certainly poor LED's that was caused a voltage related component failure on the Body control board so, thankfully, no water intrusion to troubleshoot. The bad news is that a replacement unit is over $300 and I need to have the dealer do the install so they can program the part for my VIN (so anti-theft & audio works correctly). Sigh...steep price to pay for shiny LED's in the map lights. Needless to say, OEM bulbs are installed now & staying put.

 

I’ve had my meso customs in for a long time with no issues but since the lights are grounded through the ecu it’s not surprising that increased current can cause a low current semiconductor to fail in it. I’ve asked him what the amp draw of his lights is but haven’t heard anything yet.

 

Just got a 2020 Tacoma TRD off road 2 weeks ago, brand new...I dont know if it was not working or not at the time of purchase but I just realized my dome lights are not turning on. No dome lights, map lights and the visor lights, manual switch dont work on both map and dome lights....I replaced the dome 7.5 amp fuse and it just blew out the new fuse. I have everything stock and I have not done any upgrades to the vehicle...

 

Why even bother to try and diagnose it yourself? That's what warranty is for.

Take it to a dealer and let them figure it out. Could be a long, tedious process if its a short in the wiring.

 

I think Im just being lazy, I got a good deal with the truck but its an hour worth of drive LOL

 

You fried the whole thing .

 

From reading this 10p post, here's what I've learned from y'all.

Once I read your post, I soon realized any Tacoma owner will quickly discover... installer ***beware***

So here's what I did...

1st) The Vanity bulb install. With the visor open, turned off dome and map lights while performing. [Actually, pulled the 7.5 dome lamp fuse - y'all know why, don't you?] The plastic install tool came in somewhat handy for removing the bulb covers and some bulbs. The LED's are polarity specific: (-) end bottom, (+) end top. Turn LED's towards you. Clip cover back in. Simple exchange = no issue.

2nd) On to the Map bulbs - dual polarity - cramped and hard to remove (the plastic tool was good for the lens removal, but no help on the bulbs - the tool is too big). Be sure bulbs are cool before removing. Use either a latex glove, (2) small lollipop sticks, or small needle-nose pliers to gently remove the bulb pulling from both sides at the same time. Spread a towel below to catch or who knows where they'll disappear. Since the LED's go in hard, if you haven't already, second reminder... remove the 7.5 fuse under dash in order to...

a) spread the prongs slightly with mini-standard screw driver for the replacement LEDs;
--or--
b) or take your chances, don't remove the fuse, and with latex glove on hand proceed to press on LED's and maneuver bulb gently in - as other posts will state, these bulbs go in hard!

3) ***WARNING #1*** Doing the Dome bulb incorrectly have cost many of you BIG TIME, so either have a mechanic with electrical skill install them OR WE'LL WILL FRY OUR WHOLE Map & Dome system permanently (no more dimming ever) and will need to manually use our Map & Dome lights from here on out... or cough up $670 for diagnosis, labor, and part to have the system replaced. THIS WAS NO JOKE Many of you 3rd gen Taco owners have determined if doing it themselves NOT to replace the DOME incandescent with the new LED - it simply wasn't worth the risk!!

PROCEED AT OUR OWN RISK ...reminder #3, unplug the 7.5amp 'DOME' fuse (under dash left of steering column on 3rd gen Tacos).

NEXT, once the Dome bulb was removed (it came out pretty easily w/plastic tool) have a towel underneath as it may fall into unreachable places). The new LED took some skill installing as it easily comes unseated from the base (non-tension side passenger side)...

[***WARNING #2*** And if the system is 'ON' and the fuse installed, it'll short the wiring for the whole MAP, DOME, and DIMMING system... and many of y'all have discovered how to speak "French" real quickly.]

Back to the LED bulb install - with really strong skinny fingers or mini-pliers holding the base in place (passenger seat direction), gently press the other end of the new LED bulb into the tension clip end (driver's seat direction). If anyone gets it first try, you're amazing or a brain surgeon. If anyone doesn't get it first try and didn't unplug the fuse - there's gonna be a huge six hundred and seventy #@!& regret!

ONCE it was complete, directed the LED's down into the cab. Turned the DOME and MAP fixture into the 'OFF' position if not already.

OKAY, TEST #1
a) Reinstall the 7.5amp fuse.
b) Get inside cab and close the door.
c) With the MAP light set on 'OFF,' press each MAP lamp first 'on', then off. If Test #1 is successful, move on.

NOW, TEST #2
The moment of truth arrived for either a FREE install or a $670+ trip to a Toyota mechanic ...Tried the DOME lamp next by switching the MAP light from 'off' to 'on.' If the install was followed, the dome light should come "on" with the new LED. Half of us can learn from the rest of us, while the other half will read and weep and wonder why we were so impulsive and exchanged the system while it was 'HOT' / system was turned on.

Best advice:
1) If we must go with the included LED DOME bulb, find a really good mechanic with electrical experience to assist us, or pay them for a 15min. install job of especially the DOME bulb.
2) Otherwise, stick with the incandescent bulb in the DOME fixture and install LED's everywhere else inside and save the $$$ for another modification.

 

Just curious, as I have the same issue on a 2018, if I purchase footwell lights from vleds would that work when the door opens so I can get some light at night?

 

According to Chloe’s video Yes.

https://youtu.be/Qa6fy4q0DWM

 

NOT if the ILE circuit is toast...

 

How would I know if it’s that?

 

I answered in another posts you asked same question...
Interior light problem

 

I know this is a little older post, but I just wanted to comment about my experience to help others in the future.
When taking off the covers for the map lights, I seem to have accidently pressed the button that manually turns on the light. so sticking something up there to press it fixed my problem with the light staying on, nothing regarding a fuse or anything like previously mentioned.

 

I had this problem and I had actually hit the physical light making it stay on. Sure felt smart when I “fixed” the problem. Hope this might help someone. I had searched a lot before I figured out to just press the light. I’m in a 2022 though…

 

Alright I’m coming in on this late but I’ve been living with this issue on my 2016 Tacoma for the last 4 years or so. I put LEDs in when I bought the truck because the previous owner took out the bulbs for some reason. It worked fine for a few days then out of the blue my overhead lights won’t go off when I close my door.

It seems like everyone is saying it’s the Body ECU but it looks like there’s been a few different resolutions. My questions are: Can I fix this at home? Could I replace the part where the dome lights and switches are? Is this 100% of the time the body ECU? Is there anything else to try before saying the Body ECU is the problem?

Just hoping to wrap this whole thread up with a final answer on how to fix this issue. (Obviously without continuing to use LEDs)