What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

It's all good. Maybe this will give fugging Fox time to get my fugging coilovers to me

 

I'd love to get Pelican 1600s but I don't know if my asshole can handle having my wallet ripped out through it.

 

lol, yeah no problem.

 

Does my circa '93 stove count as classic? If so, it's 1/4" too long.

 

I can get these ones and a few other sizes, mostly the airplane ones though

 

Technically what I did yesterday:

• Removed plastic wrap from frame areas with surface rust after grinding and sanding as much off as possible and covering with magic rust gel
• Painted said frame areas with Eastwood rust encapsulator and EXTREME chassis paint
• Decided I was sick of my Dakar’s rusting away (why so fast OME???) and with the new camper being a few hundred pounds less than the Wildernest, removes the AAL, hit ‘em with a wire wheel and painted them with Rustoleum (Chevy 63” swap planned for the winter)
• Noticed my god damn rear axle seals are leaking...

Got everything buttoned back up at 10p. Went to bed to get ready to...work on Landcruisers... hopefully I can knock the seal/bearing nonsense out before the weekend, because so help me whomever, I’m playing trucks this weekend, not working on them.

#dirtyhandscleanconscience

 

@timmah... watching your video on the rear axle seal replacement for non-ABS. (Your videos are always, always, always a major help for me and a whole lot of other people on this forum... so thank you BTW)

I'm wondering... does the parts list stay the same for an E-lock rear axle?

Or I'm sure soneone will chime in.

I'm E-lock, nonABS... Is there a difference between E-lock and nonE-lock bearing, seals, clips etc?

I'm planning on ordering from McGeorge with my Vin number... but I just figure I'd check before entering all these part numbers.

 

sucks that your Dakars are rusting so quick. i remember reading in the Oregonian a few years back (i think) that whoever handles roads in Portland was going to start salting the roads in wintertime. Suprised that they started showing it that quickly but given that the rust is still just surface rust, that could be the culprit. either way, hope mine last longer than that...

 

That's not a classic. That's a relic.

 

That sucks, but better to have it happen now than halfway into your trip. I had a front wheel bearing go bad on a road trip once and was at the mercy of the first shop I could limp it into.

 

Mine starting showing surface rust about two weeks after install.

And I installed them in late summer. In a desert-like climate.

 

Thanks for asking the exact questions I had!

Yeah and these lived most of their life in Colorado too, I’ve heard it’s fairly common. And another reason to go 63s and avoid really expensive expedition springs! F whoever decided to use salt in Oregon, heard the same thing...

 

Ya... I knew as soon as I heard that f'n sound I needed to have someone confirm what I thought was going on.

This is DEFINATELY a better deal than having to get towed to a shop somewhere in the middle of the road between Zion and Moab.

We had time to cancel the couple Hotel rooms we had reserved (no charge) and these plans can (and will be) postponed NOT canceled.

I think as long as we go early to mid Sept the weather should still be good going over the divide. (my Colorado brothers can correct me if I'm wrong on that)

 

Every elocker housing ever is setup for ABS, regardless of if your truck has ABS or not.

You'll have tone rings, but don't need to reinstall them. Otherwise, get the same parts you would for an ABS axle.

 

Right on

I'll check the other @timmah vid for that parts list.

He mentions 2 additional parts for ABS, tone ring and I believe the retainer for the tone ring. I'm unerstanding here that I don't need to order either of those parts... just the seals, o-rings, bearings etc.

 

No. You'll still need two retainer rings per axle.

One actually retains the bearing, one is just there for the seal to ride on. Make sure you don't press the inner one in too far. They updated the seal and you don't need to press it on as far as it was from the factory to get the seal to ride on it correctly.

 

So... I'm checking out the ABS version video and all the part numbers for the seals, c-clips, o-rings, etc, seem to be the same either way.

Which seems to confirm my initial thought that the axle housing tubes between the e-lock and Non e-lock axles are actually the same.

 

huh, well i installed mine in January and they've lived their whole life (so far... all 7 months of it) in the PNW (back and fourth between Seattle and Portland). they actually haven't shown any signs at all of wear which is good. we'll see how they do this winter. i'm moving to Montana for school in a couple of days so that's going to be worse than seattle or portland. if worst comes to worst then i think i'll end up with a set of All-Pro expo springs or maybe a set of Deavers or Alcans. i figure i've got at least couple of years before replacement is due though... all depends on how they support the weight of the canopy. not expecting any issues as they don't sag at all with me + a couple of sand bags and my tonneau cover in the back (350ish pounds). I'm guessing that that's approximately how much the new one will weigh based off how much the old one was.

 

They're not, because the seal is like an inch further inboard on the ABS housings.