So, I bought my first travel trailer and...... questions...

You will be perfectly fine Ron, just take it slow in the right lane. You'll want to keep the truck in ECT mode with the automatic shifter in S4. You will get 10mpg at 55-60mph and will have to floor it to get up to speed on short uphill onramps. On to the question no one is answering...

The WD hitch distributes the tongue weight evenly across the trailer and truck so they're sprung together. The WDH mounts to both the truck and trailer, so that weight is against both axles. If you want to be scientific, most of that weight is on the hitch, but the WDH lifts up the back of the truck to sit evenly with the trailer and spreads the load between the trailer and truck rear axle. With a WDH, I wouldn't stress too much about GVWR vs GCWR - I'd focus on keeping the tongue weight in spec for the payload and adjust the WDH so the back of the truck is level with the trailer, then try to stay under GCWR.

If you have to put a lot of tension on the WDH, you should get helper springs, updated springs, or a set of sumosprings. All 3 of those options will increase the spring rate of the back of the Tacoma, keeping it more level and absorbing bumps better with more weight. All 3 of those options will also make it less "bouncy" when towing. I personally don't use a WDH, and instead use sumosprings on top of a set of heavy duty Dakar leaf springs in the back. If I could do it again, I'd go with airbags, but the sumosprings still work great.

An Equal-i-lizer is a WDH, not a brake controller. What brake controller did you order? You do NOT want to skimp on that. I ALWAYS recommend the Tekonsha P3. Here's a link to that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P17NXQ and the plug-in harness you'll need for a 3rd gen Taco:

$15 Tekonsha Trailer Brake Controller Harness, Compatible with Select Toyota Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781KTCPT


I'm on stock gears with 33" tires and weigh ~6k lbs, then tow a 4k lifted travel trailer... You can do the math on GCWR there. Our trailer's a Forest River Wolf Pup 16BHS, which is a 20 foot long, 3100lb camper stock. We've lifted it and put it on truck tires, so it's around 4k lbs loaded... Plus the added wind profile of the lift. It still tows fine. I just don't expect to win any land speed records. MPG absolutely tanks over 65mph, so we keep it there or below and take our time. Here's the rig from our last trip:



It's too hot to camp right now, but we have 4 week-long trips planned for this fall, starting in September. Looking forward to getting out and camping again.

 

I appreciate everyone’s replies and concerns but no one really answered my question about the WD hitch weight. Oh well, it’ll all shake out.

it seems funny to me though that most of you think my rig will be too heavy yet when I read thru a thread about boat towing, people seemed OK with towing boats in similar weight range.

I think I’ll just drive in S mode, 4th gear, with ECT on and no cruise control and just take my time and enjoy the ride. MPG be damned.

to answer ICU1, Las Cruces.

 

Wow! there is nothing "Lite" about that trailer. My forest River is the same length and is 3900 lbs dry. It was probably 5000 loaded. I pulled it from London Ontario to Prince Edward Island and back in 2018. It was a struggle for sure at times going up those hills in Quebec and New Brunswick. For the most part the tranny stayed in 4th going up hills as I allowed it to decelerate to 45 mph with rpms as low as 1500. I see no reason to maintain 60 mph up hills. Having said all that, I have no plans to haul it that far again. Moving forward, I think about a 6 hour tour would be my limit. Now, unless you don't think your 3.5 is as strong as my 4.0, I see no reason why you shouldn't tow that for a 4 or 5 hour trip.

 

Totally overlooked that in my hasty effort to spill the beans on realistic expectations, sorry.
Synaps has the skivvy on the WDH.

Regarding boats vs RV’s, boats sit mostly below the truck.
An RV is like giant sail that is always against the wind. Weight VS wind.
Apples and oranges. Kinda.

 

Well, just as I sent my last post, the one from synaps3 showed up. Thank you for answering my WD question. I understand the WDH is not a brake controller. Maybe my write up was confusing on this. I had ordered a Reese Tow Power Brakeman IV because it looked small enough to not be in the way once installed but due to others comments, I’ve cancelled that order and I’ll find a different one, maybe even the Tenosha P3 everyone seems sold on.

thanks so much for your help

 

Tekonsha P3 is what I use. Very easy! Highly recommend it.

 

From my link

 

OK, so I cancelled the Reese controller order and ordered a Tekonsha P3, with the proper pig tail for my truck. I paid for 2 Day shipping so I can get in time to install this weekend. I just hope I can find a good place to install it without being in the way all the time.

 

The most important piece of using a WDH info to me is this: install and tension the spring bars always with the trailer jacked up as high as possible. I forgot this vital piece of info a few times when I first got my trailer and wondered why I couldn't get 5 or more chain links between tensioner lever and spring bar.

 

Hang tight and I ll show you how I installed mine. Gimme 20 mins. You're gonna like this. (Not my original idea in all honesty).

 

It does involve making permanent changes to the trim (two tiny barely noticeable holes), but when I'm not towing, I don't even notice it's there. I tow at least every two months so I decide to make it permanent.
I leave it unplugged while not in use.

ALSO - provided you have the tow package which means you have an unused plug behind the foot panel.

Open the foot panel and plug into the brake controller plug - Tekonsha provides this (the wire adapter) with the brake controller I think - I don't remember. They are widely available if not.

The factory plug is easily identifiable if you look online and indeed if you open the panel.
Looks like this fully installed:

 

Redarc:



You'll never hit your knee on it - the unit mounts remotely. Manual braking is push button rather than slider.

 

Now that is a clean install

 

That looks like a good solution. The only thing I use that cubby for is my garage door opener but I can move that elsewhere.

everyone talks about the plug being behind the kick panel but I found an unused plug just underneath the panel below the steering wheel that appears to be for the brake control. The owners manual has a vague drawing that somewhat supports this. Am I right?

 

Thanks. I'm not tall, but my knee always seemed to find a brake controller,....

 

I found mine behind the kick panel. It was plug & play.

 

Can't say I know for sure. I have a 17 TRDOR too with tow package and mine was behind the kick panel. Lemme try and find a pic...

Also, I'm 6' and I never hit my knee on it installed in the cubby (so THERE, coastieRon )

 

hahahahahahahahaha

Anyway, I had the P3 in my Tundra. It's a good unit.