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Another ECGS Needle Bearing Swap Complete - Things I learned

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Bwthomas77, Aug 12, 2020.

  1. Aug 12, 2020 at 11:55 AM
    #1
    Bwthomas77

    Bwthomas77 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2014
    Member:
    #139205
    Messages:
    161
    Gender:
    Male
    North Carolina
    Vehicle:
    12 dbl cab trd sport 6spd
    Supercharger, flowmaster exhaust, 4runner disc brakes, Volant CAI, ECGS bushing
    So, about two months ago I started noticing a vibration and humming sound which was most pronounced between 20-40 mph. I have a 2" lift that was on the truck when I bought it in 2014. Initially I suspected the CV axle, but after some digging I was more suspicious of the needle bearing. However, the sound did not go away when truck went to four wheel drive, which made me suspect a bearing/hub assembly. I had previously done a 4runner front disc brake conversion and thought that maybe I had done something to the assembly.

    I put the truck up on jack and both wheels did not really move, the drivers side CV axle had all kinds of play at the differential.

    I took a video of it shaking, but don't think I can post it. I just grabbed it and shook and it had all kinds of play. Capture.jpg

    Decided to replace everything out, needle bearing with ECGS clamshell bushing, both CV axles, and both hub and bearing assemblies.

    I also redid all of the seals.

    This is what I ended up with:

    IMG_5748.jpg


    Very much convinced it was the needle bearing, there was a bit of metal shaving in the diff, that came from here:
    IMG_5749.jpg


    So the things I learned:

    The seals were a bear, would definitely buy some PVC to help knock in the seals at the differential. I don't think I damaged mine getting them in (nothing leaking), but I did see a tiny bulge on driver's side. Didn't have it in me to pull the axle back out though, get a new seal from toyota, and redo it.

    The dust seals the go on the inboard side of the knuckle are also challenging to get back in, I used a punch and slowly worked my way around. I used National seals 710573. The toyota dealership had sold me the wrong ones.

    The video by Timmy the toolman was very helpful, though on the tacoma the only thing I used a puller for was the tierod. The two bolts on the bottom of the knuckle made getting the axle out a snap. I didn't take the sway bar off either, but may have had to had I not been taking the bearing and hub off.

    I used Cardone select with thermoplastic boots to replace the CV axles. You can see the diameter of the shaft is thicker in the OEM one. One of mine was already aftermarket, but here is the comparison vs the OEM and Cardone:

    IMG_5737.jpg

    To get the axle out, my wife wanted nothing to do with it and I didn't have anybody to help so I ziptied a crowbar and then knocked it out with a sledgehammer. I re-enacted in this photo, but it's actually the new axle.
    IMG_5740.jpg

    Finally, the ECGS bushing sat out about a 1/16th of an inch once it was fully seated.

    The hub and bearings I used were Koyo bearings pressed into chinese hubs, I found these on ebay for about 150 each.

    Anyhow, that's it. Took some time to get it all done, but the vibration is gone. I put new brake pads in while I was at it and filled the diff back up with redline 75w90 (which is what I had in there before).

    Hope this may help someone else.
     
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    #1
  2. Aug 12, 2020 at 2:41 PM
    #2
    Bwthomas77

    Bwthomas77 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2014
    Member:
    #139205
    Messages:
    161
    Gender:
    Male
    North Carolina
    Vehicle:
    12 dbl cab trd sport 6spd
    Supercharger, flowmaster exhaust, 4runner disc brakes, Volant CAI, ECGS bushing
    Forgot to mention, the puller tool from ECGS - I initially thought I was going to have to file it down like I've seen in some youtube videos.

    I did not, it definitely fits, just have to fiddle with it until it falls into the right spot. I used a lunch sized zip lock on the inside to keep it from falling into differential. Seemed to be the right amount of plastic to occlude the hole.
     
    mac_2_nite likes this.
  3. Aug 12, 2020 at 3:54 PM
    #3
    ucdbiendog

    ucdbiendog Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2017
    Member:
    #238320
    Messages:
    830
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ryan
    Reno, NV
    Vehicle:
    2014 DCSB TRD OR
    Bilstein 6112 + 5160 + Dakar MD, Stubbs HD-SKO sliders, BAMF skids, BAMF front bumper, Relentless Rear
    yeah, but you can see where the tool broke the rim of your bearing a little bit. mine did the same thing, but broke a few pieces off, which fell into the dif. luckily i was able to fish them out through the drain plug. nice work!!!
     
  4. Aug 12, 2020 at 4:13 PM
    #4
    Sreppep

    Sreppep Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2015
    Member:
    #148700
    Messages:
    550
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Philip
    Fort Worth, TX
    Vehicle:
    2001 SR5 4x4 V6 5spd 264k - 2005 T4R V8 4x4 139k
    5100/Toytec, F5s/w KO2 285s, ARB, 4x skids/sliders
    I didn’t have to trim it on my 1st gen either, I also found out after the fact that I put the puller inside the opposite way Timmah did in his video.
     

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