New to me: 2001 Lunar Mist Standard XtraCab

That would be after. And I have done a bit trying to deaden those two as well; they are likely in the top worst to start off with as well.

I have mattress topper foam cuttings shoved up behind the A/C blower fan, which actually helped a lot, but you really gotta get back up in there. The top right corner is the worst offender IIRC. There's the fundamental design flaw of the wheel wells extending into the actual cab of the truck which can't really be rectified though. Sealing yourself away from the firewall is the goal there..since acoustic engineering firewalls wasn't really a thing back then.
And then I've added extra weatherstripping foam around the whole door frame and the cab windows. A side effect is having to slam the doors extra hard to get them to fully latch, but it depends where you put it. The cab windows' angled openings don't make this easy (but you can completely remove them too) or super effective, but it did help.

The biggest problem are the front and back windows. The front needs either a window twice as thick or stiffer/thicker insulation around the frame. The back I sealed over again with flashing caulk but the largest culprit is the seals for the sliding part. I intend on replacing the back assembly with a single plexiglass sheet someday and riveting it on top of the same type of caulk to get a great seal.

Oh, and I also sprayed great stuff foam on the side channels of the fenders a long time ago to block them from allowing air from the engine bay to smack into the door frames. Also replaced the stock squarish mirrors with the stationary California type that are more aerodynamic. Also welded nuts under the flat side kickplates to receive bolts now instead of the factory screws that always popped out or were loose.

So anyway, ya, the biggest culprits of noise are the moving interior parts and the hard plastic. I've conquered the plastic by removing it or upholstering it.

 

Is it just me or does anyone else have an image in their head of a shredded up pillow behind all of his panels and dash?!?

 

Only image in my head I'm getting is one of me driving the taco with a huge smile because it's quiet and it's quiet because I copied all his sound deadening work
A man can have dreams right???

 

I feel everyone's pain on this issue.....I drove a 1995 Honda Civic DX for 20yrs. I think I have permanent hearing loss because of it!

 

Yes I agree. I think I even went a step worse than that....early body style Geo Metro(Suzuki swift). Only a few years for me though.
20 years huh? Sounds like an amazingly reliable vehicle

 

@treyus30 thanks much for all the info about the sound deadening you've done. I decided to put that project on the back burner for a bit. I think the truck needs a new bluetooth head unit more

In other news my CEL came on today. I've been searching the forum and it appears I can get one of these to read the diagnostic codes and reset the light?

$85 BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android - No Subscription Fee - OBD2 Car Scanner and Code Reader - Diagnose Check Engine, ABS, SRS, Airbag & 7000+ Issues on Vehicles 1996+

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or... Any advice for which to get or alternate strategies for determining the cause of the CEL?

 

The Blue Driver is good and will do what you need to do and works with a decent phone app. I keep that and an ultra gauge in my truck. http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Mostly use those for on the go checks. Otherwise it's techstream for real troubleshooting.

 

For basic OBDII readings, get one of these modules from Amazon and download the Torque app on your phone.

$10 Mestart Enhanced Version Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Car Scanner Auto Diagnostic Tool for Android Devices

https://smile.amazon.com/Mestart-En...bluetooth+obdii+reader&qid=1597317119&sr=8-16

Does the Blue Driver provide Toyota codes and programming? For my BMW, I bought a Foxwell scanner that has BMW software on it, as well as standard OBDII software. I know you can load software for other makes on it, but have not looked into Toyota-specific app yet. It's a great tool, but more expensive than the Blue Driver. But I also think it's one of the few scanners that can read actual BMW codes and provide programming features.

Also, I find that solutions presented by apps are pretty worthless. You're better off reading the code and searching the forums, imo.

 

@ShimStack I've never heard of the UltraGauge before. it looks like it can read diagnostic codes as well. Out of curiosity, why might I need two different devices (UltraGauge plus something like the BlueDriver or the Elm 327)?

@-jon- thanks for the link!

 

The ultragauge needs no phone and is nice to mount up, leave, and display live parameters as a constant monitoring system. The blue driver is nice and simple for impromptu diagnosing of issues in any vehicle quickly using your phone.

 

Basically, but more itchy and less plushy. lol

 

Try to get one with a clock on the default display. I hate that I have no clock

An ELM327 based adapter is all you need.
You can get Torque Lite or Torque Pro in the app store. No need to spend $100+ on an OBDII reader.

UltraGauge is too expensive for what it is. It might have been fine 20 years ago, but now it's ancient technology and parts.

 

It's still a driving brick though, only so much can be done about that.
We'll see what improves when I craft an undercarriage. Hoping noticeable fuel economy and handling improvement, but it should help with noise too........unless I create a resonance

 

Extremely reliable....counting on the same from my Tacoma!