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3rd Gen Sound Dampening

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by TamaskanTaco, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. Sep 18, 2019 at 4:05 PM
    #1
    TamaskanTaco

    TamaskanTaco [OP] Active Member

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    Hello! I am relatively new to the forum and am having trouble figuring out where and how to apply my sound deadening mat. I bought Noico Butyl and Foam, I was just hoping to find some pictures of where you all used the various mats and how the cuts were made. Only doing the floor and doors. Thanks
     
  2. Sep 18, 2019 at 4:10 PM
    #2
    Flatliner

    Flatliner Well-Known Member

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    I have been watching some great you tube videos but I'd suggest not looking for Tacoma specific ones. There is some good stuff out there but the tacoma specific list isnt so hot IMHO.
     
  3. Sep 18, 2019 at 10:09 PM
    #3
    Ceriksson

    Ceriksson Well-Known Member

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    I am in the process of sound deadening my Taco.

    I have done inside all 4 doors. By inside the door I mean literally inside the door against the outer body of the truck. I still need to remove the plastic vapor barrier and do the entirety of the inner portion of the door against behind the door panel. I may put some foam on top of that.

    I also removed my back seats and the back storage buckets against the back of the cab. That was a big pain in the ass but it is done from the bottom storage bins and up the back wall of the cab.

    Future plans include removing my headliner and deadening the top of the cab against the roof and maybe one day removing the seats and the centre console and getting that done.

    I am installing a sub next month so hoping to at least finish the doors by then.

    It took just under 18sqft of butyl for the 4 doors. I used 2 sheets per door (probably overkill) and I will probably require 2-3 sheets per door for the inner part of the door in the future. For the back of the truck it took me an 18sqft box with one sheet remaining.

    I have an 18sqft box of foam as well which I will probably use in the doors around the inside of the door panel.

    I also noticed that one of my biggest sources of bass rattling was from my power window plastic modules (the ones hold the power window switches that you remove when removing the door panels). I used some foam tape to stiffen the connections and pad the areas where the plastic meets the door panel.

    For the doors I removed the door panel, then pulled back the plastic vapour barrier, removed the speakers and the foam cover for the larger opening in the door. I cleaned the surface inside the door against the outer body of the truck with acetone and rubbing alcohol then adhered the deadening mats. The mats are rectangle shaped and two whole sheets with slight overlap worked well affixed tall wise inside the door (both front and back doors.) I didn't have to cut any sheets inside the door. I then worked them thoroughly with a roller.

    For the back of the cab, that was a huge PITA. I folded the seats fully down, removed the back plastic storage buckets, removed the thin rubberish hanging thing, then proceeded to unbolt both the back seats. That was the hard part. The bolts holding the seatbacks on go through the bottom of the cab so the threads were lightly corroded making removing them extremely tough combined with the very tight quarters made getting proper leverage almost impossible. Got some pretty good bloddy knuckles getting those off. I then worked as necessary to adhere the sheets around everything as much as possible. I would do this separately from the doors as the back seat area by myself screwing around with everything took me a good 3hrs or so (I think) and I was pretty organized. A lot of that time effing with the seat back bolts.

    I learned initially by watching some youtube videos but that was more to learn the proper way to remove the door panels. I figured out the rest myself once I got those off.

    Things I recommend:

    Door panel puller and trim removal tools
    10mil wrench/socket plus other sizes for the rear cabin (seatbelt and seat back bolts I think were 12 or 13mm can't remember. 10mm for the plastic storage buckets behind the seat though)
    Phillips screwdriver
    impact drill with angle attachment and socket adapter (in hindsight as I used a ratchet with a wrench for extension and leverage)
    acetone and/or rubbing alcohol with rags
    rags to wipe your hands. when working the roller and the material inside the door you will get lubricant from the window motor/gears on your arm and hands.
    deadening roller. A wallpaper seam roller also works well.
    Tesa or other cloth or foam tape to wrap the wires. There are some inside the door plus those on the inner portion of the door. Take advantage of working on those while you have the door torn apart.
    Beer
     
    TamaskanTaco[OP] likes this.
  4. Jul 3, 2020 at 11:36 AM
    #4
    JimResnikoff

    JimResnikoff Well-Known Member

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    Still a work in progress.. went through almost 18 square feet just on the back bed wall. almost a full box per door as well. average about 15 square feet per door if you do both inner and outer.
     
  5. Jul 3, 2020 at 11:37 AM
    #5
    JimResnikoff

    JimResnikoff Well-Known Member

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    Still working on mine.
     
  6. Jul 26, 2020 at 6:05 AM
    #6
    RustyMedic

    RustyMedic Active Member

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    I did mine also. It made a big difference in sound quality and road noise.

    0F88862D-68AF-4277-8D8B-17CF3B3CD34B.jpg
    8ECEFAA5-20CE-4A8C-81E9-6DDC79C5A155.jpg
     
    Epic3rdgen and CLVol1255 like this.
  7. Jul 26, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    #7
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    What's the call on the vapor barrier? Keep it or lose it? If you delete it, will that allow water intrusion into the cab?
     
    DutchRutter likes this.
  8. Jul 26, 2020 at 10:22 AM
    #8
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Keep it for sure. It won’t prevent OR allow water intrusion. It’s job is to keep condensation from forming on the plastic door panel
     
    EdgemanVA[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Aug 3, 2020 at 7:37 AM
    #9
    DutchRutter

    DutchRutter Member

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    Wonder this myself.
     
  10. Aug 8, 2020 at 11:43 PM
    #10
    MannyTheAudioGuy

    MannyTheAudioGuy Well-Known Member

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    I have put in Racesport gen3 leds I'm the process of doing a custom audio overhaul which will include Hybrid audio unity 6x9 mid bass, unity 3 inch mid driver in the dash and fiberglassing tweets in pilar soundeading all the doors, floors, and headliner and I will be using a helix processor to retain the factory radio and as far as subs I might make custom brackets to move rear seat foward a few inches to get a full size sub in there or I might just go with a pair of jl tw5 or tw3 and it will all be powered by jl audio HD amps or I might try out the new hybrid amps
    Here’s a couple Tacoma’s I’ve done sound deadening in!
     
  11. Aug 8, 2020 at 11:48 PM
    #11
    MannyTheAudioGuy

    MannyTheAudioGuy Well-Known Member

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    I have put in Racesport gen3 leds I'm the process of doing a custom audio overhaul which will include Hybrid audio unity 6x9 mid bass, unity 3 inch mid driver in the dash and fiberglassing tweets in pilar soundeading all the doors, floors, and headliner and I will be using a helix processor to retain the factory radio and as far as subs I might make custom brackets to move rear seat foward a few inches to get a full size sub in there or I might just go with a pair of jl tw5 or tw3 and it will all be powered by jl audio HD amps or I might try out the new hybrid amps
  12. Aug 8, 2020 at 11:50 PM
    #12
    MannyTheAudioGuy

    MannyTheAudioGuy Well-Known Member

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    I have put in Racesport gen3 leds I'm the process of doing a custom audio overhaul which will include Hybrid audio unity 6x9 mid bass, unity 3 inch mid driver in the dash and fiberglassing tweets in pilar soundeading all the doors, floors, and headliner and I will be using a helix processor to retain the factory radio and as far as subs I might make custom brackets to move rear seat foward a few inches to get a full size sub in there or I might just go with a pair of jl tw5 or tw3 and it will all be powered by jl audio HD amps or I might try out the new hybrid amps
  13. Aug 10, 2020 at 9:16 AM
    #13
    TacoWdrd

    TacoWdrd Well-Known Member

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    Damn... you went full backed potato
     
  14. Aug 11, 2020 at 7:24 PM
    #14
    blocke

    blocke Well-Known Member

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    How much difference does doing behind the rear seats make? I’ve already done all 4 doors and it reduced road noise greatly. I have plenty of noico left...wondering if doing the back is worth it. Weighing the benefits vs the cost of potential warranty/dealer issues if those vents begin to leak as seen in another thread.
     
  15. Aug 12, 2020 at 5:49 AM
    #15
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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    Just damper on the back wall probably won't be a big gain. That's already corrugated which keeps problem resonances minimized. What you really need back there is a barrier like MLV to keep noise from entering the cab.
     
    phocas and TacoWdrd like this.
  16. Aug 13, 2020 at 9:54 PM
    #16
    phocas

    phocas Well-Known Member

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    Proper MLV on the back wall makes all the difference in the world. I am still in the process of getting things done, but the top pic has mlv down to the sub/amp board overlapping no road noise can be heard in the back. Second is prior but shows mlv beneath seats. Also helps quite a bit with sound quality. I did the entire truck, wasn't easy. Next truck will be 2x faster though.

    mess.jpg
    lowermlv.jpg
     
  17. Aug 14, 2020 at 6:53 AM
    #17
    blocke

    blocke Well-Known Member

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    Wow nice. What’s NLV do you recommend?
     
  18. Aug 14, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #18
    phocas

    phocas Well-Known Member

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    Noise Grabber Mass Loaded Vinyl off Amazon. I used 1lb all around except behind subbox where I used .75 because i needed all the room i could get. Here is a pic of the backwall before subbox, its much easier if you dont have a sub box with little room like me. Also another from passenger floor, you dont have to get this crazy sealing it, but whatever, it was fun.

    backmat.jpg passenger (2).jpg
     

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